The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

[rampagingsloth]

Take a look at this web site if you get some time:

Free Service Manuals for Ford vehicles | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair/service/workshop manuals for many Ford vehicles, including electrical diagrams, recommended bolt torques, and estimated labor times.

charm.li

You can go to the Thunderbird (Cougar) for diagnostic info. You can download it as a file as well.

Stupid question, but how do you download them as files? I can't see any option for that, the best is right-clicking and saving the link.

 

[KevinVarnes]

I was able to drill down to a link to download a zip file.



There is a lot of easy to access information in here!

...but the zip file isn't overly helpful. You get a bunch of pages with links, to procedures, but none of the links work. Not sure what I'm doing wrong here. For a 42MB download I would think it would all be collected together.

 

[rampagingsloth]

I was able to drill down to a link to download a zip file.

Jeez, am I retarded? I was looking right at those two links (in the V8 version) and didn't even read them, hahaahahaa.

There is a lot of easy to access information in here!

...but the zip file isn't overly helpful. You get a bunch of pages with links, to procedures, but none of the links work. Not sure what I'm doing wrong here. For a 42MB download I would think it would all be collected together.

Well, I downloaded the ".zip with better file names" and, how about that, it worked! You have to read the README.txt file, it says to click on the index.html file and when I did that it opened a tab in my browser, looks exactly like the website's version. The links that I tried worked, pictures and all (man, that's a lot of sub-directories). You might have to try the other .zip file since Windows hates long file names.

 

[KevinVarnes]

Jeez, am I retarded? I was looking right at those two links (in the V8 version) and didn't even read them, hahaahahaa.



Well, I downloaded the ".zip with better file names" and, how about that, it worked! You have to read the README.txt file, it says to click on the index.html file and when I did that it opened a tab in my browser, looks exactly like the website's version. The links that I tried worked, pictures and all (man, that's a lot of sub-directories). You might have to try the other .zip file since Windows hates long file names.

Got it. Thanks for the infromation. I suppose it can be helpful to read the instructions from time to time although I normally find them a senseless nuisance. Got the factory manual for my '85 wagon downloaded even though I have all of the books. Nice to look things up quickly.

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

Here’s a good stupid question.

Why doesn’t my SVO supercharger whine under boost?
I’ve seen quite a few videos of them whining like a terminator.

It whistles at idle, but that’s the only time you can hear it.

 

[Grog6]

Whining is gear noise, if everything isn't worn badly,and full of oil, it shouldn't make much noise.
On the other end, brand new gears are also noisy, as they aren't 'worn in' yet.

 

[Grog6]

A thought occurs; I wonder,since yours is quiet, if you could post a recording and we could get the other blower owners to post recordings of their blowers, and we could compare?
This would also over time get a sense of wear and other stuff.
We'd have to get the exhaust noise dampened somehow; maybe nose in to a garage ?
We'd also need brand, age, and stuff like that.
If someone's blower lets go, that would be valuable too. Things like that make different noises before they go.

 

[NEURO]

Every 6 months for several years, I use silicone spray lube to lubricate the car's hood & trunk hinges, door hinges, door/trunk locks, latches, and other friction points. Afterwards, the driver's door hinges will make a snapping or popping sound for a couple weeks, when opening or closing the door, then get quiet again until the next lubrication time. The doors operate normally and smoothly & quietly with no impingement, sagging, or other issues.

Does anyone know why they make that snapping & popping noise after the hinges are lubed?

Video on my Google...click the small video to enlarge & hear sound:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HKTXpmqumRnchBqV8

(Note: The creaking is my leather seat as I open & close the door)

Thanks
1997 Thunderbird Sport
70K miles

 

[KevinVarnes]

Yep. the hinge on the driver's door on the '97 does the same thing when I lube it with white lithium. I found the answer a while back, but I forgot what it was or where I found it. Here is something I found on some site that was part of a club of Thunderbird and Cougars that was based in America. Mind you, I haven't looked at my car yet.

The lower hinge has a plastic roller that is designed to hold the door in position when open. The hinge has a spring loaded follower that rides on that roller. After a while the plastic roller starts to wear a groove and the follower will make a popping sound when it hits that groove. The spring isn't a coils spring like you'd think. It is nothing more than a piece of bent metal that holds the follower against the roller.

A temporary solution is to open the door about halfway and observe the roller in action. There is a point in the swing of the door where the follower doesn't contact the roller. Find that point and reach in there with a screwdriver and spin the roller around 180 degrees. Chances are the roller will still be painted body color on that side. Bada-Bing you should have a smooth pop-free hinge.

I did that and it worked out well. But I did have the hinge replaced under warranty back in 1998. So I can't tell you how long the temporary fix worked.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Yep. the hinge on the driver's door on the '97 does the same thing when I lube it with white lithium. I found the answer a while back, but I forgot what it was or where I found it. Here is something I found on some site that was part of a club of Thunderbird and Cougars that was based in America. Mind you, I haven't looked at my car yet.

In my experience, the roller just returns to its pop making position pretty quickly. Apart from that, I agree with the information.

What throws me a bit is the fact that in the video the pop is awfully loud and occurs nearer to the door being closed. In my experience, the pop happens with the door further out.

Either way, it's worth trying.

 

[XR7-4.6]

In my experience, the roller just returns to its pop making position pretty quickly. Apart from that, I agree with the information.

What throws me a bit is the fact that in the video the pop is awfully loud and occurs nearer to the door being closed. In my experience, the pop happens with the door further out.

Either way, it's worth trying.

I think it depends on how deformed the roller is, mine does this very occasionally and I’ll do that fix and it’s quiet for literally years.

 

[NEURO]

Yep. the hinge on the driver's door on the '97 does the same thing when I lube it with white lithium. I found the answer a while back, but I forgot what it was or where I found it. Here is something I found on some site that was part of a club of Thunderbird and Cougars that was based in America. Mind you, I haven't looked at my car yet.

Thanks for that info.
I'll have a look at it later tonight and let you know what I find.
It's just perplexing to me why it only pops when freshly lubed, then stops popping not long after.

 

[Grog6]

White lithium grease isn't heavy enough for a hinge.

 

[NEURO]

Yep. the hinge on the driver's door on the '97 does the same thing when I lube it with white lithium. I found the answer a while back, but I forgot what it was or where I found it. Here is something I found on some site that was part of a club of Thunderbird and Cougars that was based in America. Mind you, I haven't looked at my car yet.

That solution you posted worked.
Thank you for posting it.

After examining & playing with my door hinge and doing what's described in your posting, the popping noise has been eliminated when the door is swung to open or close it.
(Photos attached, so future readers with same question will better understand)

Photo 1:
The body-colored lower hinge roller that your posting described.

Photo 2:
The same roller, but rotated around. It's free-wheeling and can be rotated with fingers.
Now we can see the two grooves that are the cause of the popping noise.
Why two grooves, I have no idea.

Solution - To eliminate the popping noise:
With a finger, rotate the roller into different positions and then test door for popping noise by swinging it open & closed.
Different positions of the grooves will result in the popping occurring at different times during door opening & closing...but with the right position, the popping should stop or be strongly muted.

In my case, leaving the grooves visible to the eye, like in Photo 2, eliminated the popping.
I don't know if the roller will rotate again on its own...but in all the years I've owned The Car and cleaned & lubed the hinges, I never saw the grooves because all I ever saw was the body-colored un-grooved roller, like in Photo 1, when looking at the hinge on both doors.

Although we have our solution to the popping noise, I'm still curious as to why lubing the hinge causes the popping noise for a couple weeks, then it vanishes. Unfortunately, given the tight & obstructed confines of the hinge, there's no way to get a close look at what's happening in there to better understand the issue.

Anyway...thank you to everyone for the help.

 

[NEURO]

While dealing with the popping hinge issue I posted earlier, I took this driver's side under-dash photo.
Circled in red, what is the metal-perforated disc and the black unit wrapped around the edge of it...and what do they do?
Thank you

Vehicle: 1997 Thunderbird Sport

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

While dealing with the popping hinge issue I posted earlier, I took this driver's side under-dash photo.
Circled in red, what is the metal-perforated disc and the black unit wrapped around the edge of it...and what do they do?
Thank you

Vehicle: 1997 Thunderbird Sport

View attachment 14950

The manual calls it "Suspension Height Sensor Control Ring".

 

[Grog6]

It's a rate of turning sensor for the evo system. If you jerk the wheel headed into a different lane, you get full assist from power steering.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Here are snapshots from the manual which explain operation.

 

[NEURO]

Here are snapshots from the manual which explain operation.

Thank you for your time to find and post these page images to explain it.
I have the factory service manuals, but didn't see this...I missed it somehow and will look again.

I thought you were joking earlier when you said it was the "Suspension Height Sensor Control Ring", because that name doesn't make any sense, considering its steering-related function...but it is what it is, I guess.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

I thought you were joking earlier when you said it was the "Suspension Height Sensor Control Ring", because that name doesn't make any sense, considering its steering-related function...but it is what it is, I guess.

These steering columns are used in countless Ford models of that period. I imagine that when they first designed the column (and gaves names to its pieces), that ring was indeed used to control the load-leveling suspension, e.g., of a Town Car, possibly to inhibit height adjustments while cornering (?).

 

[XR7-4.6]

Thank you for your time to find and post these page images to explain it.
I have the factory service manuals, but didn't see this...I missed it somehow and will look again.

I thought you were joking earlier when you said it was the "Suspension Height Sensor Control Ring", because that name doesn't make any sense, considering its steering-related function...but it is what it is, I guess.

On SCs it’s controlled with the ARC module, could be integrated with the air suspension on Mark VIIIs

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Q: On 96/97, are both high and low beam bulbs 9007 size?

That's what it seems to be per RockAuto, but I want to be sure.

 

[XR7-4.6]

Q: On 96/97, are both high and low beam bulbs 9007 size?

That's what it seems to be per RockAuto, but I want to be sure.

Both filaments are in the same bulb, so yes

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Both filaments are in the same bulb, so yes

So it's just one bulb I need per side? We're not "4 eye" style?

 

[XR7-4.6]

So it's just one bulb I need per side? We're not "4 eye" style?

Correct. Only 89-93 Tbirds and 89-90 Cougars are 4 eye with the separated 9005/9006 bulbs

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Good to know, thanks Man!

 

[CDsDontBurn]

What are thoughts on LED 9007 bulbs?

https://a.co/d/cH8hrwl

 

[NEURO]

What are thoughts on LED 9007 bulbs?

https://a.co/d/cH8hrwl

I've been using a similar set I bought on Amazon years ago. Never had a problem, they light up things so much better, and don't blind oncoming traffic.
Note: The retaining ring that holds the bulbs to the housing are usually old & brittle and the tabs will break off. So unless your retaining rings are in good condition, grab a new set from the dealer or Ebay. Or just grab a couple to have as extras. They're cheap.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

I've been using a similar set I bought on Amazon years ago. Never had a problem, they light up things so much better, and don't blind oncoming traffic.
Note: The retaining ring that holds the bulbs to the housing are usually old & brittle and the tabs will break off. So unless your retaining rings are in good condition, grab a new set from the dealer or Ebay. Or just grab a couple to have as extras. They're cheap.

I guess I'll find out what the retaining ring is when I get to this, lol

 

[NEURO]

I guess I'll find out what the retaining ring is when I get to this, lol

Where the bulb mounts into the headlight housing, there's a black plastic ring that locks it into housing. You rotate it to lock/unlock the bulb from the housing. See the attached photo. If you use a flashlight to see where the bulb inserts into the housing, you'll see the black retaining ring and the wiring harness to the bulb inserted through it.
Note: There's 3 tabs inside the ring...when the rings are old & brittle, the tabs break off easily. That's why you should get a couple new ones, unless yours are in good condition.