The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

[XR7-4.6]

How long would you expect Tokiko blue shocks to last on a daily driver? My front end seems to be getting a little soft, more prone to nose dive.

Mine have over 30,000 miles on them and still feel good.

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the VSS on a 4.6?

I’ll be installing my speedometer calibrator in the near future.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

Q: With limited daylight, should I work towards finishing my home improvement project or doing the oil change on mine and my wife's vehicles?

The home improvement project is now 2 months behind schedule, but everything is sealed up (no water penetration).

Both vehicles are ~500 miles over on their mileage.

I'm trying to decide which one I should prioritize for tomorrow as it's my only remaining free day.

 

[Vicinity]

If you're sealed up in south cali, have at the oil! Tell your employer you are going to be sick next week

 

[Zep5.0]

Q: With limited daylight, should I work towards finishing my home improvement project or doing the oil change on mine and my wife's vehicles?

The home improvement project is now 2 months behind schedule, but everything is sealed up (no water penetration).

Both vehicles are ~500 miles over on their mileage.

I'm trying to decide which one I should prioritize for tomorrow as it's my only remaining free day.

You can do both oil changes at basically the same time. Drain one, then the other. While the second one is staining fill the first. Half hour and both should be done. Then if you have time, do a few hours on the house.

 

[Vicinity]

LSC had an alignment via tire store but veers left on braking, and veers slightly to the right hands free. Should I even bother have them try again under warranty, or go to a dedicated alignment shop?

The bird had always practically drive itself in comparison, it's frustrating. Do larger/wider wheels just make the alignment that much easier?

Edit: Now I wonder, could bad wheel speed sensors cause traction control to go mildly squirrely

 

[CDsDontBurn]

You can do both oil changes at basically the same time. Drain one, then the other. While the second one is staining fill the first. Half hour and both should be done. Then if you have time, do a few hours on the house.

My oil changes also consist of a tire rotation.

I guess I can still pull this off though as I have something silly, like 14 jack stands .

 

[Jae 'Bird]

I have something silly, like 14 jack stands .

that's not silly, thats just a backup set... for the backup set... for the backup set... for the backup set... for the backup set... for the backup set... for the normal set! Sounds perfectly normal to me (I have a tool problem)

 

[Kenz]

LSC had an alignment via tire store but veers left on braking, and veers slightly to the right hands free. Should I even bother have them try again under warranty, or go to a dedicated alignment shop?

The bird had always practically drive itself in comparison, it's frustrating. Do larger/wider wheels just make the alignment that much easier?

Edit: Now I wonder, could bad wheel speed sensors cause traction control to go mildly squirrely

Both my Tbird and Cougar required a return trip back to the shop after they screwed up the alignment job. To their credit it was fixed both times, but the manager was the one who put it on the machine and redid it. I still don't trust that it was properly gone through and all the adjustment points were checked.

Next time I need to get an alignment I'm going to find a small local owned garage or speed shop that knows what they are doing. The corporate owned shops really just are only good for getting cookie cutter cars and trucks aligned.

 

[Grog6]

See if it follows patch lines on a road; that's tie rods. replace all 4, then have them mine it up.

Every 100k I do tie rods, control arms, endlinks, and strut rods. poly in the rear.

 

[Vicinity]

Fronts all rebuilt. What do you mean by following patch lines on the road?

 

[supergordo]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the VSS on a 4.6?

I’ll be installing my speedometer calibrator in the near future.

I have the Ford electrical diagrams, I can get you some pictures of the diagrams you need later. Send me a message.

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

I have the Ford electrical diagrams, I can get you some pictures of the diagrams you need later. Send me a message.

I found my EVTM book. Thank you though.

 

[Grog6]

Fronts all rebuilt. What do you mean by following patch lines on the road?

A bad tie rod will follow the line, as if it's steering itself, badly. it's only one wheel, or it would be bad.

 

[Vicinity]

That's interesting. My memory of it being annoying seems to be in the far left lane. I will pay more attention to this

 

[SnowyOwl]

How does one remove the wheel center cap without breaking it? I mean the caps that look like this:


From standard (non-sc) 1994 Thunderbird 15" wheels. Mine are pretty much shattered already, but I wouldn't like to break them any further, especially if I buy a set of non-broken ones at some point.

I see that there's a small gap in the wheel which kinda hints you to push something into there. What kinda tool should I use? The driver's manual forbid using flathead screwdriver, and (IIRC) it told to use the flat end of the stock lug wrench, but I didn't succeed with that either.

 

[XR7-4.6]

The factory lug wrench is the right tool as it has the widest tip to spread the force from, screwdrivers are more likely to crack it or dimple the wheel prying. You’re best off positioning the lug wrench in the slot and hitting the end of it rather than prying, that should pop the cap off no problem

 

[SnowyOwl]

The factory lug wrench is the right tool as it has the widest tip to spread the force from, screwdrivers are more likely to crack it or dimple the wheel prying. You’re best off positioning the lug wrench in the slot and hitting the end of it rather than prying, that should pop the cap off no problem

Thx for the tip, the lug wrench it is then. Gotta practice with the borken ones I have before looking for new set.

 

[Kidd-7]

Troubleshooting question: occasionally I turn the key and no power, like my radio memory resets. Once or twice still holding the key forward she starts. Also if I rotate the key bad then go to start again she fires right up like there's no issue. This has just started happening recently and only intermittently. Battery terminals are good and clean. I know I should check the cable at the starter for corrosion, etc.
Anything else to check out?

 

[MadMikeyL]

Sounds like the ignition switch is starting to fail. I would replace it before it leaves you stranded.

 

[Kidd-7]

There’s another project. I’ve got 2 days left of work this year. I’ll look on rock auto, but any suggestions on where and what brand to buy?

 

[KevinVarnes]

You can still get a new one from Ford for around $50. Otherwise I've had good luck with Standard Motor Parts.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Question: why are we blaming the ignition switch? He said that one symptom is that the radio presets are deleted, correct? If that's so, all power must be lost at least momentarily. I don't see how the ignition switch would cause that (?).

 

[Generalee0527]

that's not silly, thats just a backup set... for the backup set... for the backup set... for the backup set... for the backup set... for the backup set... for the normal set! Sounds perfectly normal to me (I have a tool problem)

14 only covers 3-1/2 vehicles. I have 4 and I'm always wishing I had another set of the craftsman pro 3 ton that I've had for 20 years.

 

[White Lincoln]

I began to wonder if I should be using a different motor oil and possibly additives to my engine since the car is 31 years old and has almost a 160k on the dial.

I have been using 10w30 and sometimes I would put one of the Lucas additives in. Of course I use Fram filters (just kidding)... I use Motorcraft and Wix filters.

I do have a front and rear main seal leaking and have already replaced them once and wondered about using a sealent, but have always hesitated because of what else they can plug up. I read an article that using an actual manufactors seal instead of the "other brand" seal may be the reason they don't seal right (the front and rear mains).

Any suggestions?

 

[KevinVarnes]

I typically run 5W-30 in my cars, but I'm a bit further north than you. The 3.8 has roller lifters, so there shouldn't be any need to run an oil with zinc additive. Lately I've just been running Mobil full synthetic. Seems fine. I've never run any of the "high mileage" oils.

I used to run the orange Fram filters on my old '92 Thunderbird V6. 260k miles and ran great and burned no oil. Regular maintenance is the key. I believe the Extra Guard filters are pretty decent. That said, I primarily run Wix in my cars.

Main seals can be tricky sometimes to properly install. Also, if there is a groove worn in the crank from the old seal, then a new seal will likely leak just as bad or worse. They do make repair sleeves for the crank which I've had okay luck with in the past. I've never had any issues with good aftermarket seals (Fel-Pro, Mahle, Timken, National, etc.). Ford contracted the seals out to somebody. They didn't make them themselves.

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

Is it just me or does it look like the throw out bearing isn’t sitting on the fork correctly?

 

[MadMikeyL]

Hard to tell from the picture, but I have seen the input shaft sleeve break, which allowed the fork to move around, and made for erratic clutch engagement. If you grab the end of the fork that sticks out of the trans, you shouldn’t be able to wiggle it up and down much. If you can move it and hit the top and bottom of the hole in the bell housing that it comes through, then that piece is broken, and the trans has to come out and the front taken off to replace it.

 

[White Lincoln]

I typically run 5W-30 in my cars, but I'm a bit further north than you. The 3.8 has roller lifters, so there shouldn't be any need to run an oil with zinc additive. Lately I've just been running Mobil full synthetic. Seems fine. I've never run any of the "high mileage" oils.

I used to run the orange Fram filters on my old '92 Thunderbird V6. 260k miles and ran great and burned no oil. Regular maintenance is the key. I believe the Extra Guard filters are pretty decent. That said, I primarily run Wix in my cars.

Main seals can be tricky sometimes to properly install. Also, if there is a groove worn in the crank from the old seal, then a new seal will likely leak just as bad or worse. They do make repair sleeves for the crank which I've had okay luck with in the past. I've never had any issues with good aftermarket seals (Fel-Pro, Mahle, Timken, National, etc.). Ford contracted the seals out to somebody. They didn't make them themselves.

Thank you Kevin for the detailed and thurough comment on my question. I too used Mobile One, but that was on my 4 cylinder Mustang I drove back and forth to Santa Fe everyday in a past life. It was worth not having to change oil every month due to the mileage I put on that engine. As for the seals, I believe I saw a YouTube on the replacement seals that can patch a worn crank. And thank you for mentioning that Ford no longer makes thier own seals. Reminds me of MIcrosoft; they are no longer making thier own keyboards and mice and farmed it out to some other company to make.

 

[KevinVarnes]

Minor correction. I run Mobil full synthetic not Mobil 1. The full synthetic is kind of their entry level synthetic oil. I can usually find the full synthetic for $20-$24 per 5 quart jug when it is on sale which is usually is.