The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

SnowyOwl said:
Replaced the window motor "main gear" among the bushings last week. This week the new gear looks like this:
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i.e. The window motor's metal worm gear has eaten off the new main gear. The window motor made a really funny noise when grinding off the plastic.

Lucky enough I kept the old gear, despite being filthy it is still in a good condition. Now what I'm wondering - Was it a mistake from me to use (silicone) grease on the worm gear + main gear surface, or is this just normal Dorman quality?
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Wondering if you need to clean your weather stripping and window guides. Seems your window could be binding, but I'm not sure
 
Zep5.0 said:
Wondering if you need to clean your weather stripping and window guides. Seems your window could be binding, but I'm not sure
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Gotta check them out if the new old gear gets immediately broken too.

The first time I heard the worm gear grinding noise was when closing the window, and when the window had rolled all the way up. I think there's no stopping mechanism of any sort when the window rolls to the up position, the motor just wont have the strenght to roll any further. Unless the gear breaks like this.
 
I might have actually asked this one before on TSTSNBN and got an answer but if it did I’m pretty sure the timing probably coincided with my banning from there and my memory of an answer fails me, so forgive me for asking again if so

Are the gauges themselves for wideband O2s universal or should they be married to their controllers(zeitronix in my case)? I’d like to run a permanent gauge at this point and though I don’t have any problem buying a matching zeitronix one, but they only come in red white and blue, not green, which will inevitably drive me insane someday picking any of their choices
 
aem wideband sensors are calibrated independent of the readout with a selected resistor, but idk about other companies.
 
Does anyone know the size of the larger hose coming off of the power steering fluid reservoir? It looks like 3/4” but I want to be sure.
 
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What size hose do I need for the brake bleeder nipples? I want to connect a hose and run it to an empty bottle for neat disposal purposes.
 
Are the center caps with the T-Bird logo on my for 89-93? Or were there any wheels in 94-97 with the T-Bird logo and them as well?
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Do the center caps for those years transfer over easily to 96/97 wheels, or will they look off?
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I’d worry less about them looking off than I would be getting them off. Tbird logo center caps have a slot in the wheel itself to remove the center caps so you can access the lugnuts. 96-97 Sport wheels don’t so if you pop an older center cap on them you won’t be able to remove them without carnage
 
They're the same size, but like Matt stated, there's no notch in the 96/97 rims to pop of the caps.

I think the 15" center caps for the 94/95 are smaller than the 16" SC caps.

Joe
 
XR7-4.6 said:
96-97 Sport wheels don’t so if you pop an older center cap on them you won’t be able to remove them without carnage
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My 94 SC has no tabs on the 16s .. my 95 SC does. 🤔 The 15" fan blade caps are the same size.

The early style 89-93 SC wheels had a larger cap.
 
I’d love to find a mint set of 89-93 SC center caps, I read that they will fit my 93 cobra wheels on the TC, I think those would look much better than a plain center cap.
 
Ericv8thunderbird said:
I’d love to find a mint set of 89-93 SC center caps,.
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Oh, I wish you had mentioned something a couple weeks ago when they had the two SCs here in the local yard. The caps were in the respective trunks.

I usually don't pick up anything that comes in sets, unless someone specifically asks for it. The junkyard charges me one by one, but a potential buyer expects a "set discount"; it's not a worthwhile sale.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
I’d worry less about them looking off than I would be getting them off. Tbird logo center caps have a slot in the wheel itself to remove the center caps so you can access the lugnuts. 96-97 Sport wheels don’t so if you pop an older center cap on them you won’t be able to remove them without carnage
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So what you're saying is to grind out a slight notch on the wheel to be able to pop out the center caps and I can use them.

theterminator93 said:
~1/4" ID tubing usually does the trick for me.
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Thank you! Will be buying some hose later today!
 
CDsDontBurn said:
So what you're saying is to grind out a slight notch on the wheel to be able to pop out the center caps and I can use them.
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Yes. Ideally the time to do this is before painting them, but if you only did one wheel so far, now would be the time. I would use a file instead of a grinder since you don’t want to take away too much material.
 
MadMikeyL said:
Yes. Ideally the time to do this is before painting them, but if you only did one wheel so far, now would be the time. I would use a file instead of a grinder since you don’t want to take away too much material
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They're all painted now, lol.
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Thank you! Will be buying some hose later today!
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I use cheap aquarium air hose; brake fluid will waste whatever you use, so cheap is the way to go.
A sixpack of clear beer bottles make for good catchcans for each wheel.
If you're doing the brakes, it's a great time to add stainless lines at the calipers. :)
 
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