The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

MadMikeyL said:
I’m much happier with the cladding removed from my 97. Yes, it would be nice to have 94/95 bumpers, but removing the cladding is definitely an improvement in my mind, even with the stock bumpers. View attachment 17720View attachment 17721
Click to expand...
Fair enough. To me, it triggers the "used bar of soap" reaction that I got from Bill Wheeler's car, or the GTA: San Andreas Fortune where the polygon count was too low. But that's just me and I probably could have kept quiet on that.

I'll qualify the side cladding removal with one more requirement for my personal taste: SC side skirts must be installed. I don't like the way the sides of these cars curve inward toward the bottom in conjunction with the '96-97 bumpers. I've had that feeling that ever since the first time I put the car on jack stands with all wheels removed and thought, "What a weird-looking spaceship."
 
Last edited:
Snapshot from manual regarding fuel pressure regulator installation:

20260413_103217.jpg

What exactly is the "return seal", and what does it look like.

Trying to see if this can be done without removing the wiper motor assembly.

Rockauto doesn't list such a seal. Where would I find it? Assuming it's not just some generic item.
 
There's an o-ring under the FPR, BUT THE FUEL RETURN IS THE OTHER CONNECTION TO THE FUEL RAIL. Supply from pump, return, vacuum line, that's everything that connects to the rail. The fuel lines have two o-rings each, use viton. The supply and return are different sizes.
 
Hmmm

I'm mainly interested in whether or not it'll come out with the unit.

On the V6, the fuel pressure regulator is below the wiper motor assembly. I think there's enough space to reach in there with a small ratchet to swap the unit, but I wouldn't be able to get any small part out of the rail port. Not without removing the whole wiper assembly.

I have a spare fuel pressure regulator, and I'm curious if it could improve my occasional hot start issues.
 
Have you ever heard of the bathtub curve of reliability?
The short version is, the failures are usually early "infant mortality", or late "Wearout failure".
A good takeaway is that a part that has made it to the bathtub part of the cure is at it's most reliable; You're more likely to swap in a part that fails before the part you were preemptively fixing.
"If it Ain't broke, don't fixit " Actually has a root in reason, lol.
I'd wait for it to leak. Test the pressure at the schrader valve to diagnose.
 
Kidd-7 said:
Whats the difference between:
DORMAN 626613
and
DORMAN 626202
Click to expand...

I used a 626-202 when I installed the PI intake. I recall it not fitting perfectly but I got it to work fine
 
No clue. I used one that I got off of a Crown Victoria in the junkyard. I'm guessing it was '03-'09 car since anything older is hard to find around here. I didn't have any fitment issues other than losing the sensor for my auto HVAC.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Back
Top