Thinking about getting this 97

Keep us posted!
I will, lol.

So now that I'm going to be looking at this car tomorrow, what are some things to look at?

What are things I should look for to ensure what he said is accurate and that the car is indeed in good mechanical condition? Like, I know stuff, but this would honestly be my first private party vehicle purchase.

And should I buy it, what are some items that I should replace no matter what? Serpentine belt, engine coolant, tires (if older than 7yrs)?
 
Carfax at the ready? Its pricey and it's not the best story teller, theres almost no service records on mine. At the very least it will tell you what regions it was registered to, and if its stolen

You should be able to run the plate right away, and then double check against the vin when your interest starts perking up. Seller shouldn't have any problem with you looking at the vin. But they could rightfully be annoyed to wait for you to sign up and or pay for the carfax while youre using their time
 
I generally replace all fluids when I purchase.
Look over the suspension, ball joints, bushings etc. that can give you a comfort level driving home and maybe a bargaining chip if they are worn.
Check the condition of the tranny fluid.
Generally if a car is clean inside then they take care of maintenance also.
Take an OBDII reader.
 
Look at the fluids, as stated. While they could have just replaced them, it's worth checking. Get under the car and verify it all looks "straight". Open the trunk and pull back the carpet to look for any prior body repairs. Bad wrecks show up internally.

While you should always check shocks and springs, at this age unless recently changed they will be soft. Also check the weather stripping. I can verify the costs add up.

Otherwise driving a car always tells me the story. If she's smooth, you'll know it.
 
The door fabric staying on the door is a good confirmation that the car had been sitting for better or worse. If theyve been registering the car as often as CA would probably require, you'd see the progression of miles on the report. 80k is a good number if they managed to smog it every year. Thats one good thing about smogging... you can see they were able to move the car when they had to and bet money that it would pass
 
Carfax at the ready? Its pricey and it's not the best story teller, theres almost no service records on mine. At the very least it will tell you what regions it was registered to, and if its stolen

You should be able to run the plate right away, and then double check against the vin when your interest starts perking up. Seller shouldn't have any problem with you looking at the vin. But they could rightfully be annoyed to wait for you to sign up and or pay for the carfax while youre using their time

Thanks for the tip on Carfax! Although I knew about it, I had forgotten about it. I'll look into what options they have available and make the purchase if interest continues at that point.

I generally replace all fluids when I purchase.
Look over the suspension, ball joints, bushings etc. that can give you a comfort level driving home and maybe a bargaining chip if they are worn.
Check the condition of the tranny fluid.
Generally if a car is clean inside then they take care of maintenance also.
Take an OBDII reader.

Engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, and ATF. The listing does say "Transmission recently serviced". I wonder if it has the known transmission shudder 🤔.

I guess I should take my jack then and get under the car to check the bushings and ball joints?

The pictures show that the inside is immaculate and leather shows as clean. I'll have a better idea when I see it in person.

OBD-II scanner already stuffed in my wallet so I don't forget!

Look at the fluids, as stated. While they could have just replaced them, it's worth checking. Get under the car and verify it all looks "straight". Open the trunk and pull back the carpet to look for any prior body repairs. Bad wrecks show up internally.

While you should always check shocks and springs, at this age unless recently changed they will be soft. Also check the weather stripping. I can verify the costs add up.

Otherwise driving a car always tells me the story. If she's smooth, you'll know it.

Pulling back on interior, got it. What parts of the interior would be easiest to pull back while also showing witness marks of prior damage (if any).

The listing states that "suspension recently replaced" (or thereabouts). I'll check suspension nonetheless.

The door fabric staying on the door is a good confirmation that the car had been sitting for better or worse. If theyve been registering the car as often as CA would probably require, you'd see the progression of miles on the report. 80k is a good number if they managed to smog it every year. Thats one good thing about smogging... you can see they were able to move the car when they had to and bet money that it would pass

If it's been sitting outside, right? Smog is every year, and because of this, I learned that it's also required up to 90 days before the sale of a vehicle. I don't think the seller knew this either.

ChrisFix has a used-car purchase checklist that you can download. I found that very helpful.

Thanks! I'll look into this!
 
If it's been sitting outside, right? Smog is every year, and because of this, I learned that it's also required up to 90 days before the sale of a vehicle. I don't think the seller knew this either.

Thanks! I'll look into this!

The ad states its been graraged, and I believe it on the door fabric tell. If its its been outside with the new owner, they dont try and keep it in their own grage, and want it gone
 
Smog is every year, and because of this, I learned that it's also required up to 90 days before the sale of a vehicle

Buyer is ultimately responsible for the smog inspection .. seller only has to sign the title and release of liability.
 
this would honestly be my first private party vehicle purchase.

My Thunderbird was my first and only private party vehicle purchase. I went to see it twice and purchased during the second visit. The owner was definitely getting impatient with me. Don't let them rush you. Bring a clipboard and a pen, old-school, take notes continuously, so it's obvious you are serious about the process.


I have to laugh thinking back. I remember looking at my car. The owner bragged that he had had remote start installed. He proceeded to demonstrating that feature, and...it attempted to start but failed. I got into the car to start it with the key. It started. I shifted into D. The engine died...
I thought to myself: leave now! But the rest of the car looked good, and I attributed these hiccups to it standing for too long.
 
So now that I'm going to be looking at this car tomorrow, what are some things to look at?

What are things I should look for to ensure what he said is accurate and that the car is indeed in good mechanical condition? Like, I know stuff, but this would honestly be my first private party vehicle purchase.

Here's my "check all this stuff" list:

Engine
  • Oil level/consistency
  • Noises (running/startup)
  • Smells
  • Leaks/visual inspection
  • Inspect inside head through oil fill (foam/steam? color? smell?)
  • Power steering fluid color/level
  • Coolant color/level
  • DTCs?
  • All OBD-II monitors complete (KAM not reset recently to hide a code?)
Trans
  • Fluid level/color
  • TC shudder?
  • Shifts PT
  • Shifts WOT
  • Engine braking OK? Manual shifts working properly?
  • OD lockout
Brakes
  • fluid level/color
  • warped/grinding rotors?
  • Firm pedal?
  • ABS/traction assist functional?
  • Parking brake functional?
  • Pulling to either side?
Suspension
  • Noises, tightness, looseness?
  • Tires - age/type
  • Wheel balance at speed?
Electrics
  • Battery age
  • Horn
  • Headlights
  • High beams
  • Turn signals/hazards
  • Brake lights
  • Running lights
  • Wipers/washers
  • Mirror motors
  • trunk release
  • cruise control
  • Defrost
  • Traction assist disable?
  • L/R windows
  • power locks
  • Manual locks (corroded/frozen?)
  • Idiot lights all work
  • Odometer runs properly, trip odo reset works?
  • Alarm?
HVAC
  • Ext temp sensor
  • Vent selection operation
  • Temperature selection operation
  • AC clutch operation
  • Smells?
Radio
  • CD deck/Cassette - functions?
  • Radio operation/power antenna
  • Speakers
Body
  • Rust (underneath, rockers, gas tank etc.)?
  • Dents/dings?
  • Paint/clearcoat finish
  • Wheels (scuffs etc.)?
 
The one thing nobody has mentioned is the intake manifold. With only 80k and it being garage kept, there is a possibility that the original all plastic manifold is still on there, and if it is, that’s a ticking time bomb. Actually just looked at the photos, and I’m pretty sure that is the original all plastic manifold, so plan on replacing that immediately if it is.
 
Here's my "check all this stuff" list:

Engine
  • Oil level/consistency
  • Noises (running/startup)
  • Smells
  • Leaks/visual inspection
  • Inspect inside head through oil fill (foam/steam? color? smell?)
  • Power steering fluid color/level
  • Coolant color/level
  • DTCs?
  • All OBD-II monitors complete (KAM not reset recently to hide a code?)
Trans
  • Fluid level/color
  • TC shudder?
  • Shifts PT
  • Shifts WOT
  • Engine braking OK? Manual shifts working properly?
  • OD lockout
Brakes
  • fluid level/color
  • warped/grinding rotors?
  • Firm pedal?
  • ABS/traction assist functional?
  • Parking brake functional?
  • Pulling to either side?
Suspension
  • Noises, tightness, looseness?
  • Tires - age/type
  • Wheel balance at speed?
Electrics
  • Battery age
  • Horn
  • Headlights
  • High beams
  • Turn signals/hazards
  • Brake lights
  • Running lights
  • Wipers/washers
  • Mirror motors
  • trunk release
  • cruise control
  • Defrost
  • Traction assist disable?
  • L/R windows
  • power locks
  • Manual locks (corroded/frozen?)
  • Idiot lights all work
  • Odometer runs properly, trip odo reset works?
  • Alarm?
HVAC
  • Ext temp sensor
  • Vent selection operation
  • Temperature selection operation
  • AC clutch operation
  • Smells?
Radio
  • CD deck/Cassette - functions?
  • Radio operation/power antenna
  • Speakers
Body
  • Rust (underneath, rockers, gas tank etc.)?
  • Dents/dings?
  • Paint/clearcoat finish
  • Wheels (scuffs etc.)?

Definitely a comprehensive list!

For the TC shudder, what do I look for? I don't think I've ever experienced that and if I have, I clearly don't remember what it feels like.

The one thing nobody has mentioned is the intake manifold. With only 80k and it being garage kept, there is a possibility that the original all plastic manifold is still on there, and if it is, that’s a ticking time bomb. Actually just looked at the photos, and I’m pretty sure that is the original all plastic manifold, so plan on replacing that immediately if it is.

So you're saying to Pi intake swap it if it hasn't been already. Or at the very least, replace the gaskets, right?
 
For the TC shudder, what do I look for? I don't think I've ever experienced that and if I have, I clearly don't remember what it feels like.

You bring the car to a speed just enough to lock up the torque converter clutch. 40 mph should be enough. Then, ideally on a slight uphill stretch, you increase throttle just barely, just enough to accelerate without prompting any TCC unlock or downshift.

If shudder is present, you feel and hear a rumble strip like vibration.

My car exhibited it for the first time several months after purchase. Then I was able to reproduce it consistently. A fluid flush fixed that permanently for me.
 
The TC shudder feels like driving over rumble strips, and will usually be most pronounced as it shifts into 4th gear under light to moderate acceleration, usually around 40mph.

For the intake manifold, if it is the original one, the manifold itself has to be replaced, not just the gaskets. The original manifold was all plastic, including the coolant crossover at the front. If/when those fail, they fail catastrophically and could cause the engine to overheat if you aren’t in a good place to pull over. So I would replace that immediately.
 
Not to offend by stating trivial information, but on the subject of tire age, you know every tire has a 4-digit code on it, the first two digits representing the calendar week and the second two digits representing the year of manufacture.
I didn't know that until the Thunderbird purchase, and the tires were between 12 and 14 years old.
 
You bring the car to a speed just enough to lock up the torque converter clutch. 40 mph should be enough. Then, ideally on a slight uphill stretch, you increase throttle just barely, just enough to accelerate without prompting any TCC unlock or downshift.

If shudder is present, you feel and hear a rumble strip like vibration.

My car exhibited it for the first time several months after purchase. Then I was able to reproduce it consistently. A fluid flush fixed that permanently for me.

Thanks for the description and how to produce it. You and @MadMikeyL .

Not to offend by stating trivial information, but on the subject of tire age, you know every tire has a 4-digit code on it, the first two digits representing the calendar week and the second two digits representing the year of manufacture.
I didn't know that until the Thunderbird purchase, and the tires were between 12 and 14 years old.

Yes, this I knew already.
 
Looks clean! IIRC W5 is open rear end.... With the 15" wheels it can't be a sport model. Although I thought the 33GG was a sport spring code?

My 96 tbird had those wheels and the open rear end. The rear tires (tire) would scream often.
 

1997 Ford Thunderbird​

$4,800$6,500

Details​

  • Condition
    Used - Good
Rare find! Original owner family. Parked in garage for over 25 years so paint and interior in good condition. AC works great. V8 motor runs great. Transmission has been serviced. Over $3k spent to upgrade old suspension. 82,000 miles. Selling due to upcoming cross country move . Cash only. No trades.

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I would not "think" about getting it... I WOULD GET IT! Very nice, clean T-Bird. I like the color and the interior is really nice. And, it's a 4.6 not a V6. Good luck with your purchase.
 
See the build date 08/97. It's a year younger than my '97! It must have been among the very last ones built. Pretty cool.

With that build date, it likely has the calibration from  after the shudder TSB, meaning it's less likely to develop the shudder to begin with.
 
It looks like a really well kept, clean example of an MN12. But IMO keep looking... From your other posts in this thread, it sounds like other cars would be better options.
 
Guy accepted an offer at $4,000.

It does need tires, it does have the plastic intake manifold.

The only other anomaly is that the hazard lights don't work. That's probably just a fuse?
 
Oh, here are some pictures of the car.

One other thing, this doesn't have ABS. Is that correct based on the door tag I posted?

This one had me curious about it. Why would the latch be gunked up like that?
1000000734.jpg

Driver seat. Notice the plastic is still in tact.
1000000739.jpg

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1000000741.jpg

The diff tag was hard to read.
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1000000736.jpg
 
Guy accepted an offer at $4,000.

It does need tires, it does have the plastic intake manifold.

The only other anomaly is that the hazard lights don't work. That's probably just a fuse?

The ball joints were recently done, correct? No noises? Good boots?

How is the leather on the driver seat?

Overall, this sounds like a fair price. Personally, I would try to push a bit lower, but I'm cheap.

The hazard are likely an easy fix. No idea about the manifold.


How do you feel? Did you drive it? Driving it is the most important thing.

Funny, my hood latch was gunked up like that until I recently replaced it with a junkyard unit. No idea what caused it.
 
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