Wheel bearings and how to tell if they are bad

[XR7-4.6]

That's good to hear XR7. Nice to see someone enjoys their products from HF. I have lots of them, but I buy them for the "two time use and break" product and they tend to last much longer than that. I had a saws-all that lasted 4 times and the bushings fell out. I have a staple gun that lasted about 7 times and just jammed up and won't work anymore... 1/4" router that the plastic parts just broke (but I bought another one), but have had a Ryobi router and table that have lasted through hundreds of uses, just saying. Maybe I should get one of the crates of HF return tools and take a chance with what I get...

Yeah I certainly have my collection of broken or ghetto rig “repaired” HF tools too, but there’s definitely occasional diamonds in the rough in that store. Their earthquake electric impacts, the aforementioned torque wrenches, and I’ve heard from a lot of body guys their paint guns are pretty good as well. My floor jack is a model they no longer carry but it’s freaking 16 years old and I’ve used and abused it to hell and back.

Most of their powertools I agree are one time use, and worse yet they’re not even that good of a value compared to say ryobi at Home Depot or whatever. Gotta do your homework but I give credit where due to the decent/good stuff.

 

[Rodeo Joe]

What brand would you trust at HF? They have Pittsburg, Icon, Quinn.

Joe

 

[Zep5.0]

Icon looks good in this test as long as you aren't using it often and for years.

 

[White Lincoln]

Turns out the Craftsman 1/2" 250lb torque wrench I returned last black friday I bought again. $65 from $109 at Amazon, ACE Hardware and a few other places. I am just waiting on the wheel bearing assemblies to get here today. Got the car up on jacks, tires off and HOW TO GET THE GREASE CAPS OFF!!!!

The manual I have says toss em' once you remove em', but these are the OEM"s, never damaged so I am trying to take them off without putting a whole in the side and yanking it off with a screwdriver.

Thoughts?

 

[White Lincoln]

Never mind, I have a new pair of wheel bearing cap remover sitting in my tool chest I never used.

Dah.

 

[XR7-4.6]

I always just use a flathead screwdriver around the edge and remove it like the cap to a paint can, never damaged one

 

[Rodeo Joe]

White Lincoln,

Did you but this one?

Craftsman

Joe

 

[White Lincoln]

White Lincoln,

Did you but this one?

Craftsman

Joe

Hi Joe,
Yes, that is the one I bought. It should do the job. I am Craftsman nut and have been since i was a little kid. When my dad was young and out of the military, he worked at sears and sold Craftsman tools. And that is what we always had to work with. My parents bought me a Craftsman tool box and basic set of tools for my 18th birthday. I still have the box and the tools, some 45 years later.

 

[White Lincoln]

I always just use a flathead screwdriver around the edge and remove it like the cap to a paint can, never damaged one

Yeah, I started using a screwdriver and before I started pounding the crap out of it to get it off, I started looking around for something better. Then I remembered I had my Snap-On Hub dust cover tool I had not used yet. Lucky ME! (and I mean that). The caps needed some coaching, but they finally came out. Pretty darn clean too!

 

[White Lincoln]

Talk about an easy job. I thought I was going to have to use a hub puller because the hub had never been pulled in the 27 years I had the car. My hub puller was about an 1/8" too small from center, so I ground it out a bit to get it over the studs. Anyway, using my long breaker bar and an air ratchet, I took off the caliper and mounting bracket. Then I used my 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 1 3/8" socket and the nut came right off. I used my air wrench to spin the nut the rest of the way off. I just need to clean it up and slap the new one on tomorrow. I thought the dang new hubs were not going to come because they were supposed to be here yesterday and finally around 7:30 tonight, the UPS girl swung by and dropped it off. Luckily she was easy on the eyes.

 

[White Lincoln]

Question:
The book I was reading to do this job said to: "Never, never NEVER re-use the hub bolt." Looking at the bolt, I can't see why it can't be re-used.

Suggestions?

 

[White Lincoln]

Well, I was looking at prices for a front spindle nut and decided this feller is gonna do the right thing....

... use the OEM original ones.

 

[Grog6]

They are designed to not accidentally come off, that's why they're one use only. I buy the rear ones from ford, and use those. They are a different design, but better than the dorman alternative. You don't want to lose a wheel.

 

[97teebs]

everytime I get a suspension part from rock auto the threads or the bolt or something is messed up so before installing anything threaded check the and make sure the threads are in good shape. happened to me on my struts for my 97 (monroe brand) and also my ball Joints for my 90 (also moog) luckily I've been able to correct the issue without sending items back. but it is annoying going behind someone else to check and make sure parts that look right are right.

 

[White Lincoln]

everytime I get a suspension part from rock auto the threads or the bolt or something is messed up so before installing anything threaded check the and make sure the threads are in good shape. happened to me on my struts for my 97 (monroe brand) and also my ball Joints for my 90 (also moog) luckily I've been able to correct the issue without sending items back. but it is annoying going behind someone else to check and make sure parts that look right are right.

This I can attest too as well. As for the spindle bolts, all RockAuto had was 3rd party (Dorman) and another brand. Neither had the free standing washer built into the nut like the OEM nut. Ford spindle nuts are anywhere from $8 each (must buy 4) to $30 each. I can see buying 4, but I can't wait 10 days to get it from China (joke). Even Amazon did not have anything next day or 2 day, nor was it prime, not was it cheap.

 

[KevinVarnes]

Compared to pretty much any late model press in or bolt in wheel bearing, these are a dream. I've never had a front bearing stick to the spindle on one of these cars. They usually just slide right off. Don't tell anybody, but I reuse axle nuts all the time and I've never had a come back.

 

[White Lincoln]

They are designed to not accidentally come off, that's why they're one use only. I buy the rear ones from ford, and use those. They are a different design, but better than the dorman alternative. You don't want to lose a wheel.

Curious how a torqued at 250lb nut is going to come off. I was reading some of the messages and documents on replacing the spindle bolt and really can't get past the "best practice"

Compared to pretty much any late model press in or bolt in wheel bearing, these are a dream. I've never had a front bearing stick to the spindle on one of these cars. They usually just slide right off. Don't tell anybody, but I reuse axle nuts all the time and I've never had a come back.

My hero!

 

[White Lincoln]

All done... well most of the way. Had a scare when I went to test the new assembly on the spindle I had just cleaned wtih brake fluid, brushes and rags. The assembly would not go on! OMG! Started shitting my pants, freaking out, ran inside to see who has one... Oh THE DRAMA! Turns out only one of the assemblies needed a nudge, the other one went on real well.

Here's a tip for ya fellers... "be kind, spread the grease".

 

[XR7-4.6]

They wouldn’t make the nut the way they do if there was no possibility of them backing off.

Likewise I agree if they aren’t mangled upon removal or rusty reusing them really isn’t as sketchy as it sounds, the threads don’t really stretch on them like a one time use fastener since by design there’s layers of thin nuts that interlock themselves for security.

 

[theterminator93]

I only replaced the axle hub nuts the first time I redid bearings. In the dozen or so times since, I've always just re-used the old nuts. In the ~200k driven on those parts, there's never been a problem.

 

[White Lincoln]

I've been watching too much Vice Grip Garage... the guy does NOT like to replace stuff unless necessary or there is an actual reason that escapes me.

Honestly, if I could run over to AutoZone, less than a mile away and get the same spindle nut as the OEM for $5 or $6.. I would. But cooperate greed has crept into the smallest of nuts...

 

[XR7-4.6]

90% of his cars end up going from some other guys backyard to sit for decades to his backyard to sit for decades, so I don't blame him lol

 

[White Lincoln]

This is the end of the road on this post. I have to say I was really impressed that replacing the wheel bearings took out most of the rattling in my car when going down the road. Next post will be on the rear bearings, bushings, etc. I was about to get rid of this car because I could not find out what the dang rattles under my car where... who woulda' thunk-it was the bearings rattling around all this time. Had I not been doing 90 down the freeway and got really bad vibrations that Costco mechanic mentioned wheel bearings. Some mechanic I am.

 

[White Lincoln]

Here are some tips that may help someone down the line, or not.
Wash your wheels and spray a ton of some type of protectant to keep the brake dust from building up on the wheel. And its even harder to remove later on if not protected.
Use a plastic / PVC / ABS pipe to tap the grease caps on so they don't get dinged up from pounding on them.
Clean all of the brake and grease/grime build up off the wheel spindle assembly before putting it back together.
Put grease down on the spindle shaft so the next person that removes the assembly will have an easier time.
If the new bearing assembly does not seem like it will fit, try it on the other side and try the other new one on the same places. If one fits and the numbers are the same, give the problem assembly a tap with a rubber mallet and a large socket or, the above PVC/ ABS tubing.
If you don't have a 250lb torque wrench, look into getting one. I was surprised at how easy it was just putting on the lug nuts because of its size.
And, as always, spray copious amounts of brake cleaner over the assembly when done. Best to have a pan under it as that stuff is a black mess.

Enjoy your next project!

 

[97teebs]

Compared to pretty much any late model press in or bolt in wheel bearing, these are a dream. I've never had a front bearing stick to the spindle on one of these cars. They usually just slide right off. Don't tell anybody, but I reuse axle nuts all the time and I've never had a come back.

So I didn't know until recently that you're supposed to replace them... 2 tbirds 4 axels each = 8 Reused nuts + plus I previously had a 94 that I did front bearings on so that's 10 re-used nuts for a result of 0 problems

 

[Grog6]

https://www.tascaparts.com/search?search_str=axle+nuts 3 bux, lol.

 

[Rodeo Joe]

Greg,

What's the difference between the 2, other than the price? They're both listed as front, rear, left, right.

Joe

 

[Grog6]

One is the og for the front, one is for the rear. in order, front rear. But either will work. The rear one is a different design. It was changed from the front during development, and running changes are expensive. I assume they had a couple of million dollar incentive to change it. They will interchange in an emergency, but don't give me a warm fuzzy feeling. I prefer not to take chances with important stuff. I've reused them in the past. They eat threads on the way out. So I usually remove them from the axle by disassembling the little cage, and removing the three nut sections individually. The three thin nuts have slightly different threads, which 'jams' them in place, not letting it come off. The front one is a big assed nylock nut. You do not reuse these.They will fall the fuck off, lol. I know a million pieces of poorly assembled machines can't be wrong, lol.

 

[XR7-4.6]

The stock fronts aren’t nylock, if they are they aren’t original. They’re the multi-nut cage design like the rears. The only difference I noticed between front and rear is the rears are silver while fronts are black.

Difference Might just be a more corrosion resistant coating since the rear ones are exposed to the elements without caps

 

[Grog6]

I was looking at the ones in the linked photo. Mine were like that, a long time ago. They had a red ring, but it was a nylock. I'd bet they're in my toolbox, lol. I use old bolts to pull new stuff into place, or if I'm going to have it on and off multiple times. I had that the first time I did the red Cougar knuckle. I had a bitch of a time getting the preload correct. I had the bearing in backwards. It will not tighten properly like that, and fails fast. Less than a year of daily drives. That was the knuckle I destroyed with the press, lol. I got $100 for that knuckle, and Three broken wheels.