Best tool for valve spring INSTALLATION

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GRWeldon

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I bought the piece of crap tool pictured. It is difficult to use when REMOVING the springs but it worked. It is just about impossible to INSTALL them using this tool. The "foot" of the tool won't fit correctly on the expanded free spring length when trying to install.

Has anybody used a tool that actually worked well when reinstalling springs?
 

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Mine’s home made, it’s actually a copy of a really pricey aftermarket billet one that may or may not still be made as far as I know but it’s the same concept; using the cam towers to mount an anchor plate and screwing bolts and a dremeled open socket to push down on the valve spring and access the keepers. Works fantastic, but obviously the cam has to be removed

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Yeah, I've seen those. It's not a big deal to remove the cams. They are in because the tool I have uses them for leverage. Guess I could go that route but I was hoping to avoid it. Thanks for the reply...
 
I use the one that looks like a large C with vice grip attached.
 
image.jpgI used this one from MMR for replacing stem seals. Worked well for me. I needed two people, one to work the wrench and the other to set the keepers on the top of the valve stem with a magnetic tipped screw driver.
 
I've used a different otc tool on the 3v heads to change some followers. It works well except if you get a follower wedged in a spot that will make chineese arithmetic look easy.
 

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Generalee0527 said:
I've used a different otc tool on the 3v heads to change some followers. It works well except if you get a follower wedged in a spot that will make chineese arithmetic look easy.
Click to expand...

It looks similar to the OTC/trick flow tool in that it pivots agains the cam. It definitely works best with a helper, but having bought the TF myself thinking it was the answer to my prayers it left a lot to be desired working by myself.
 
The tool also had to be disassembled and reversed to get the other cam, on a 4v. Filling the cylinder with ball-chain worked better than using air when I changed the springs in the car.
 
Grog6 said:
The tool also had to be disassembled and reversed to get the other cam, on a 4v. Filling the cylinder with ball-chain worked better than using air when I changed the springs in the car.
Click to expand...

I don’t do either. I just rotate the piston on the cylinder I’m working on to TDC and there’s zero chance of losing the valve in there. If the valve seal won’t hold the valve in place while you’re compressing it you can run a coat hanger with the end bent 90° roughly 3/8” long into the chamber through the spark plug hole and hold up the valve you’re working on with it. Wouldn’t work with a 2V though, but Really though the seals if fresh(which you should have if you went to the trouble of pulling springs) will hold the valves in place all on their own during the process.

Oh and a tip without using compressed air in the cylinder; sometimes the valve keepers will stick to the spring retainer and push down the valve as you compress the spring. What you do to avoid that is take a brass punch to the edge of the spring retainer before you start, that slight blow will break the bond and the valve seal will sufficiently hold the valve stem in place
 
XR7-4.6 said:
I don’t do either. I just rotate the piston on the cylinder I’m working on to TDC and there’s zero chance of losing the valve in there. If the valve seal won’t hold the valve in place while you’re compressing it you can run a coat hanger with the end bent 90° roughly 3/8” long into the chamber through the spark plug hole and hold up the valve you’re working on with it. Wouldn’t work with a 2V though, but Really though the seals if fresh(which you should have if you went to the trouble of pulling springs) will hold the valves in place all on their own during the process.

Oh and a tip without using compressed air in the cylinder; sometimes the valve keepers will stick to the spring retainer and push down the valve as you compress the spring. What you do to avoid that is take a brass punch to the edge of the spring retainer before you start, that slight blow will break the bond and the valve seal will sufficiently hold the valve stem in place
Click to expand...
I was doing the work with the heads off.
 
Grog6 said:
This tool is easy, with the heads https://www.amazon.com/SMOTIVEPRO-C...cphy=9013375&hvtargid=pla-2064755728470&psc=1
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Are you sure it’s that one? The closed valve springs are below the valve cover deck, so I don’t see that tool with the straight claw being able to even touch the retainer let alone compress it. On a modular you’d want one like this(not sure entirely this would work either but it has the correct attributes)

 
That's the one. It fits over the side of the head, the 'cage' fits over the spring and retainer, and you compress it, and put the retainers in thru the side windows. It's not easy, but it works great. And it won't hit you in the face if your hand slips. Hey, the 'special cams I have are krupp blanks that have been ground. They were "blower cams" and are over 20 duration. I need to reassemble these heads. I found all the parts. reading the writing on the springs will take a bit. Out of 3 sets of beehive springs,4 were bad; I need to take pix of the valve spring tester I made.
If you want yours tested, I'd do that for you if you send them to me, and I'll send them back. With the force closed at install height, and at .4xx",full open. It's a summit gage, and an action clamp to make it easy to go thru a bunch of springs. It's too big/heavy to ship, or I'd loan it to you. the 4bad ones had 2 lbs of pressure closed.:(
 
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