Best tool for valve spring INSTALLATION

[GRWeldon]

I bought the piece of crap tool pictured. It is difficult to use when REMOVING the springs but it worked. It is just about impossible to INSTALL them using this tool. The "foot" of the tool won't fit correctly on the expanded free spring length when trying to install.

Has anybody used a tool that actually worked well when reinstalling springs?

 

[XR7-4.6]

Mine’s home made, it’s actually a copy of a really pricey aftermarket billet one that may or may not still be made as far as I know but it’s the same concept; using the cam towers to mount an anchor plate and screwing bolts and a dremeled open socket to push down on the valve spring and access the keepers. Works fantastic, but obviously the cam has to be removed

 

[GRWeldon]

Yeah, I've seen those. It's not a big deal to remove the cams. They are in because the tool I have uses them for leverage. Guess I could go that route but I was hoping to avoid it. Thanks for the reply...

 

[Grog6]

I use the one that looks like a large C with vice grip attached.

 

[Thunderstruck95]

I used this one from MMR for replacing stem seals. Worked well for me. I needed two people, one to work the wrench and the other to set the keepers on the top of the valve stem with a magnetic tipped screw driver.

 

[massacre]

I have used the OTC tool, it's a pain in he ass but it does work

 

[Generalee0527]

I've used a different otc tool on the 3v heads to change some followers. It works well except if you get a follower wedged in a spot that will make chineese arithmetic look easy.

 

[XR7-4.6]

I've used a different otc tool on the 3v heads to change some followers. It works well except if you get a follower wedged in a spot that will make chineese arithmetic look easy.

It looks similar to the OTC/trick flow tool in that it pivots agains the cam. It definitely works best with a helper, but having bought the TF myself thinking it was the answer to my prayers it left a lot to be desired working by myself.

 

[Grog6]

The tool also had to be disassembled and reversed to get the other cam, on a 4v. Filling the cylinder with ball-chain worked better than using air when I changed the springs in the car.

 

[XR7-4.6]

The tool also had to be disassembled and reversed to get the other cam, on a 4v. Filling the cylinder with ball-chain worked better than using air when I changed the springs in the car.

I don’t do either. I just rotate the piston on the cylinder I’m working on to TDC and there’s zero chance of losing the valve in there. If the valve seal won’t hold the valve in place while you’re compressing it you can run a coat hanger with the end bent 90° roughly 3/8” long into the chamber through the spark plug hole and hold up the valve you’re working on with it. Wouldn’t work with a 2V though, but Really though the seals if fresh(which you should have if you went to the trouble of pulling springs) will hold the valves in place all on their own during the process.

Oh and a tip without using compressed air in the cylinder; sometimes the valve keepers will stick to the spring retainer and push down the valve as you compress the spring. What you do to avoid that is take a brass punch to the edge of the spring retainer before you start, that slight blow will break the bond and the valve seal will sufficiently hold the valve stem in place