Chatbox Thread

Zep5.0 said:
ABS? I'd think that or a fluid level sensor.
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The SRS light is perpetually on. It's a Honda thing. It only matters in the event if an accident. If I'm ever involved in one, I don't plan on it being my fault, lol.

The "Brake" light is indeed indicative of low brake fluid level. But the fluid in the reservoir drops as the caliper piston is pushed out over time. As I just did my brakes last night, the pistons got pushed back in and the fluid level back into the reservoir. At least, that's how it's always worked. This time, fluid level is indeed still low. It needs the fluid flushed anyway, so I'll do that soon. Maybe next weekend. Maybe tomorrow, IDK yet.
 
It sounds like you can hear it just revving it in neutral/park? Can you have someone rev the engine while you listen for the sound around the engine? Could be the converter breaking up inside as mentioned before. I don't think it would be revving cleanly to 5.5k RPM if the exhaust was plugged, but maybe. A real good way to find exhaust rattles is to take a rubber mallet and smack various parts of the exhaust. Heat shields, muffler baffles, converters, will all usually rattle with the mallet test. I had the converter guts rattling around in my old Saturn wagon for a while before I finally changed it out. It was really annoying because it would rattle every time I took off from a stop. I'm not sure how much of that was actually left in there by the time I changed it.

So is the fluid level in the brake reservoir actually low? Can you disconnect the level sensor connector and jump the two terminals to get the switch to turn off? I am assuming the switch is normally closed and opens on a low level condition. I've seen those floats get stuck especially with that kind of mileage and possibly old fluid.
 
KevinVarnes said:
It sounds like you can hear it just revving it in neutral/park? Can you have someone rev the engine while you listen for the sound around the engine? Could be the converter breaking up inside as mentioned before. I don't think it would be revving cleanly to 5.5k RPM if the exhaust was plugged, but maybe. A real good way to find exhaust rattles is to take a rubber mallet and smack various parts of the exhaust. Heat shields, muffler baffles, converters, will all usually rattle with the mallet test. I had the converter guts rattling around in my old Saturn wagon for a while before I finally changed it out. It was really annoying because it would rattle every time I took off from a stop. I'm not sure how much of that was actually left in there by the time I changed it.

So is the fluid level in the brake reservoir actually low? Can you disconnect the level sensor connector and jump the two terminals to get the switch to turn off? I am assuming the switch is normally closed and opens on a low level condition. I've seen those floats get stuck especially with that kind of mileage and possibly old fluid.
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The converter does rattle. I confirmed that just a moment ago banging on it just before out my car down. So sounds like I need a new converter too. I guess I can get that fixed properly with actual flanges and whatnot.

Yeah, brake fluid level is actually low this time. It has me pondering now if there is a leak in my braking system now. Ugh. I don't want to work on my Honda, but working on it is my "car payment" in lieu of having a car payment. That, and it's a cheap "car payment".
 
It's a closed system so the fluid shouldn't go anywhere. Shouldn't be too hard to track down a brake fluid leak. Does it have rear drums or discs? Just follow all of the lines and it will probably be obvious. I usually run my fingers over threaded joints and then look for signs of moisture on my finger tips for slow leaks. Since you probably don't have rusty lines it is likely a caliper seal or wheel cylinder (if drum brakes). Also, don't forget that your master cylinder can leak internally into the power brake booster which can also take out the booster.

I'm 100% in favor of keeping an old car on the road instead of buying new. The only things that will make an old car not worth repairing to me are rust or a major collision. Everything else can be fixed.
 
The fact it didn't refill the reservoir when you pushed the pistons back indicates a leak; its likely a rubber line at the caliper since you live in ca. I'd park with all 4 wheels on newspaper, and pump on the brake hard. I had one break on Lazarus, and that's not fun. I'd replace them anyway, if you have to bleed them anyway. I typically replace the brake fluid anyway every 3-5 years. It soaks up water vapor. Those lines for Laz were ~10 bux. Cheap insurance , imo.
 
KevinVarnes said:
It's a closed system so the fluid shouldn't go anywhere. Shouldn't be too hard to track down a brake fluid leak. Does it have rear drums or discs? Just follow all of the lines and it will probably be obvious. I usually run my fingers over threaded joints and then look for signs of moisture on my finger tips for slow leaks. Since you probably don't have rusty lines it is likely a caliper seal or wheel cylinder (if drum brakes). Also, don't forget that your master cylinder can leak internally into the power brake booster which can also take out the booster.

I'm 100% in favor of keeping an old car on the road instead of buying new. The only things that will make an old car not worth repairing to me are rust or a major collision. Everything else can be fixed.
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I know it's a closed system, which is why I'm wondering if I have a leak somewhere. I sure hope not but knowing it's a closed system, I know it's not true. I'll need to find it.

Brake system leak is higher priority than the engine issue. I just hope it's a seal and not something else like the brake booster or ABS pump. Everything else will be easy to diagnose and fix.
 
Any one else dealing with an issue today where your phone tried to update over night and bricked itself?
 
Nope. I have auto-updates off for that exact reason.
 
I never update my phone unless under duress. So far, every single iPhone update has been worse than the one before it, so I’ll keep the oldest possible operating system, thank you very much! Still running Windows 7 on my computer for the same reason, and if I could browse the web with DOS 6.2 you bet your ass that’s what I would be doing!
 
Normally I don't have a problem with iOS updates as my phone usually does run better with them.

But I do get annoyed at how Apple has to find reasons to change the mundane things that you use daily. Moving the cursor in a text field is a great example. Used to be you tapped in front of a word to move it there or long-pressed and dragged to place it between a letter. Now when you tap in front of a word, it selects the word. And God forbid you type in ALL CAPS in iOS 18 and trigger the automatic BIG TEXT EFFECT.

The new multi-level Control Centre is annoying as mess too. When I open it, I want one page of buttons. Now if I swipe too hard or too far, it scrolls down to the next pages and then I have to scroll back up to my buttons.

Everything but my work computer is on OSX and work determines what version of Windows I run. Thankfully we are still on 10 and will probably hold out to the bitter end.
 
Writing to you now from my "bricked" phone.

Pulled it apart. Found the battery connections had become disconnected. Plugged it back together, turned right on.

I started thinking it was more hardware than software because it would only go into AP fast boost mode, and it would only get to that point with it plugged in. Unplug it and it instantly cut out.
 
John, did you have any hassles from the tornado that went through loudon today? Only ef1, but that's enough.
 
Hopped on the pellet grill bandwagon. Happily got a model that doesn't have wifi or phone interface

I've cooked dark meat chicken first, then a frozen pizza, and now steak tonight. I was trying to figure out why I screwed up the first two times. I realize the probes they provide are garbage. I suspect that its reading 20F more than actual temp. The sirloin was great though. Time to get some tri-tip or hanger cuts. Planning to pick up a digital leave-in meat probe
 
to check a temp probe. or any temperature measuring device, you need two glasses of water. put one in the microwave until it boils. that should read 212 degreesF (100C). a glass of icewater is 32 degrees(0C) if you stir it. I used to calibrate sensors with that trick.
 
Rolled in last night after 2 weeks in England. Unlike the cluster that was travel in 2022, this trip went flawlessly; thanks Aer Lingus. :)

Spent some time with @andy625uk as well. It's always a pleasure to meet up with fellow MN12 owners, especially so when they're overseas and of such excellent character. :zbeer:

IMG_20250529_205900cp.jpg
 
theterminator93 said:
Rolled in last night after 2 weeks in England. Unlike the cluster that was travel in 2022, this trip went flawlessly; thanks Aer Lingus. :)

Spent some time with @andy625uk as well. It's always a pleasure to meet up with fellow MN12 owners, especially so when they're overseas and of such excellent character. :zbeer:

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It was great to see you again too Brandon. Thanks for the MN12 pressies too 👍👍👨‍🔧🔧🔧
 
Grog6 said:
John, did you have any hassles from the tornado that went through loudon today? Only ef1, but that's enough.
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Barely got any wind or rain. Something about the ridge we're on seems to just split the cells. The one a couple weeks ago that spawned a tornado in Farragut didn't even rain on us.
 
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