Chatbox Thread

[CDsDontBurn]

ABS? I'd think that or a fluid level sensor.

The SRS light is perpetually on. It's a Honda thing. It only matters in the event if an accident. If I'm ever involved in one, I don't plan on it being my fault, lol.

The "Brake" light is indeed indicative of low brake fluid level. But the fluid in the reservoir drops as the caliper piston is pushed out over time. As I just did my brakes last night, the pistons got pushed back in and the fluid level back into the reservoir. At least, that's how it's always worked. This time, fluid level is indeed still low. It needs the fluid flushed anyway, so I'll do that soon. Maybe next weekend. Maybe tomorrow, IDK yet.

 

[KevinVarnes]

It sounds like you can hear it just revving it in neutral/park? Can you have someone rev the engine while you listen for the sound around the engine? Could be the converter breaking up inside as mentioned before. I don't think it would be revving cleanly to 5.5k RPM if the exhaust was plugged, but maybe. A real good way to find exhaust rattles is to take a rubber mallet and smack various parts of the exhaust. Heat shields, muffler baffles, converters, will all usually rattle with the mallet test. I had the converter guts rattling around in my old Saturn wagon for a while before I finally changed it out. It was really annoying because it would rattle every time I took off from a stop. I'm not sure how much of that was actually left in there by the time I changed it.

So is the fluid level in the brake reservoir actually low? Can you disconnect the level sensor connector and jump the two terminals to get the switch to turn off? I am assuming the switch is normally closed and opens on a low level condition. I've seen those floats get stuck especially with that kind of mileage and possibly old fluid.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

It sounds like you can hear it just revving it in neutral/park? Can you have someone rev the engine while you listen for the sound around the engine? Could be the converter breaking up inside as mentioned before. I don't think it would be revving cleanly to 5.5k RPM if the exhaust was plugged, but maybe. A real good way to find exhaust rattles is to take a rubber mallet and smack various parts of the exhaust. Heat shields, muffler baffles, converters, will all usually rattle with the mallet test. I had the converter guts rattling around in my old Saturn wagon for a while before I finally changed it out. It was really annoying because it would rattle every time I took off from a stop. I'm not sure how much of that was actually left in there by the time I changed it.

So is the fluid level in the brake reservoir actually low? Can you disconnect the level sensor connector and jump the two terminals to get the switch to turn off? I am assuming the switch is normally closed and opens on a low level condition. I've seen those floats get stuck especially with that kind of mileage and possibly old fluid.

The converter does rattle. I confirmed that just a moment ago banging on it just before out my car down. So sounds like I need a new converter too. I guess I can get that fixed properly with actual flanges and whatnot.

Yeah, brake fluid level is actually low this time. It has me pondering now if there is a leak in my braking system now. Ugh. I don't want to work on my Honda, but working on it is my "car payment" in lieu of having a car payment. That, and it's a cheap "car payment".

 

[KevinVarnes]

It's a closed system so the fluid shouldn't go anywhere. Shouldn't be too hard to track down a brake fluid leak. Does it have rear drums or discs? Just follow all of the lines and it will probably be obvious. I usually run my fingers over threaded joints and then look for signs of moisture on my finger tips for slow leaks. Since you probably don't have rusty lines it is likely a caliper seal or wheel cylinder (if drum brakes). Also, don't forget that your master cylinder can leak internally into the power brake booster which can also take out the booster.

I'm 100% in favor of keeping an old car on the road instead of buying new. The only things that will make an old car not worth repairing to me are rust or a major collision. Everything else can be fixed.

 

[Grog6]

The fact it didn't refill the reservoir when you pushed the pistons back indicates a leak; its likely a rubber line at the caliper since you live in ca. I'd park with all 4 wheels on newspaper, and pump on the brake hard. I had one break on Lazarus, and that's not fun. I'd replace them anyway, if you have to bleed them anyway. I typically replace the brake fluid anyway every 3-5 years. It soaks up water vapor. Those lines for Laz were ~10 bux. Cheap insurance , imo.

 

[CDsDontBurn]

It's a closed system so the fluid shouldn't go anywhere. Shouldn't be too hard to track down a brake fluid leak. Does it have rear drums or discs? Just follow all of the lines and it will probably be obvious. I usually run my fingers over threaded joints and then look for signs of moisture on my finger tips for slow leaks. Since you probably don't have rusty lines it is likely a caliper seal or wheel cylinder (if drum brakes). Also, don't forget that your master cylinder can leak internally into the power brake booster which can also take out the booster.

I'm 100% in favor of keeping an old car on the road instead of buying new. The only things that will make an old car not worth repairing to me are rust or a major collision. Everything else can be fixed.

I know it's a closed system, which is why I'm wondering if I have a leak somewhere. I sure hope not but knowing it's a closed system, I know it's not true. I'll need to find it.

Brake system leak is higher priority than the engine issue. I just hope it's a seal and not something else like the brake booster or ABS pump. Everything else will be easy to diagnose and fix.