Chingon's Engine Build

[XR7-4.6]

@grog are you going DOHC in your car?? I seen @XR7-4.6 had to cut a lil bit of the underwood to make it fit I believe, which I already chopped mine up haha. Maybe some time next year I’ll 4v swap my bird if things are better.

@XR7-4.6 the only thing they did recommend is upgrading the roller followers to the ford GT because they handles the stresses better at higher RPM’s. What lifter/followers are you running in your 4v? I know you spoke to Todd Warren about it.

I actually only had to clearance the hood for the EGR valve to fit, it’s fully intact otherwise. There’s like 1/4” of clearance between the skin and the highest point of the manifold!


The Ford GT followers aren’t any stronger, the benefit of them is the smaller holes for the oil to bleed through from the lash adjusters, which both raises oil pressure(not that that’s really needed at high RPM with what modular oil pumps put out) but more importantly minimizes excess oil being dumped in the heads faster than it can drain back from them into the oil pan at sustained high RPM.

I’ve just got the OEM followers in mine for now, buying 32 of the things exceeds what I paid for the damn engine

 

[97 30th]

@XR7-4.6 the only thing they did recommend is upgrading the roller followers to the ford GT because they handles the stresses better at higher RPM’s. What lifter/followers are you running in your 4v? I know you spoke to Todd Warren about it.

I used those in my 2 valve because they're supposed to restrict the oil up top which is an issue on these engines when run at higher rpm for extended periods of time to my understanding.

 

[Grog6]

I've got a bunch of followers; they don't seem to go bad. But the lash adjusters do need to move. otherwise you get chipped cam lobes,and hammered valves. That's common in police cars.
I blamed stuck adjusters for my red car spitting out a follower, but I see that's wrong. I floated the valve, and the follower came out.
30th, yes, our engines fill the pass head at high rpm. it's possible to run the oil out the pcv, almost entirely, on a 40 mile drive over ~4k, lol.

 

[theterminator93]

minimizes excess oil being dumped in the heads faster than it can drain back from them into the oil pan at sustained high RPM.

This right here. Also why many folks building high-RPM mod motors build/get custom 6-7+ quart sumps.

 

[Chingon1]

@XR7-4.6 talk about tight! Is that with those aluminum k member spacers you had before too?? And definitely it’s one of those things that unless your building a dedicated track car there’s not need. I didn’t now about that drain back problem. That’s good to know!

So it would make sense to put the mark 8 pan before I throw the motor back in huh, can the stock bird pick up work on that pan? It’s 1 quart bigger if I’m not mistaken

 

[XR7-4.6]

@XR7-4.6 talk about tight! Is that with those aluminum k member spacers you had before too?? And definitely it’s one of those things that unless your building a dedicated track car there’s not need. I didn’t now about that drain back problem. That’s good to know!

So it would make sense to put the mark 8 pan before I throw the motor back in huh, can the stock bird pick up work on that pan? It’s 1 quart bigger if I’m not mistaken

Yes definitely grab a mark VIII pan, it’s a direct fit, the oil pickup geometry is identical as the extra capacity comes from the tumor on the side of the pan rather than a deeper bottom.

Yes that’s with the spacers. It had more clearance when I first did the engine swap but after replacing the motor mounts while I put in the headers it raised it back up a bit.

 

[Chingon1]

Yes definitely grab a mark VIII pan, it’s a direct fit, the oil pickup geometry is identical as the extra capacity comes from the tumor on the side of the pan rather than a deeper bottom.

Yes that’s with the spacers. It had more clearance when I first did the engine swap but after replacing the motor mounts while I put in the headers it raised it back up a bit.

Sounds good the JY is gonna be half off this weekend so gonna try and find a mark to snag it from. Thanks!

I’m kinda tempted to weld some plates on my motor mounts, they are the solid rubber and them bitches move way too much.

 

[Grog6]

I have a chain welded on a forged Lift loop bolted across my driver's motor mount.
I hear the hockey puck mount is pretty solid. Hockey pucks are rare here.
On the stock 2v 96 cars,a bad motormount lets the engine rock up into the hood. This pins the throttle butterfly WFO. The stock brakes will not hold the car, with it WFO. This is NOT a ride I recommend. I broke 3 wheels, but missed the school bus..

 

[Chingon1]

@Grog6 i seen guys do that but me being the extra rediculous person I am, kinda wanna shoot Str8 for solid mounts haha. But that strap should work just fine.

Also, got the Melling m176 oil pump and the mahle rings today. Only thing left is the mahle pistons, should be here the first of January!

They are cheapy cast aluminum, all good. Gotta file fit the rings but not sure to what specs, I seen they should be gapped to 1” bore x .007 which would be around 25 for a boosted engine. But again I’m not entirely sure. Any tips?

 

[Grog6]

That's the kind of thing I'd ask somebody, but Oscar hasn't been around, and JL and nick only answer by Ouija board these days. No-one to call.