Chingon's Engine Build

Chingon1 said:
@grog are you going DOHC in your car?? I seen @XR7-4.6 had to cut a lil bit of the underwood to make it fit I believe, which I already chopped mine up haha. Maybe some time next year I’ll 4v swap my bird if things are better.

@XR7-4.6 😅 the only thing they did recommend is upgrading the roller followers to the ford GT because they handles the stresses better at higher RPM’s. What lifter/followers are you running in your 4v? I know you spoke to Todd Warren about it.
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I actually only had to clearance the hood for the EGR valve to fit, it’s fully intact otherwise. There’s like 1/4” of clearance between the skin and the highest point of the manifold!


The Ford GT followers aren’t any stronger, the benefit of them is the smaller holes for the oil to bleed through from the lash adjusters, which both raises oil pressure(not that that’s really needed at high RPM with what modular oil pumps put out) but more importantly minimizes excess oil being dumped in the heads faster than it can drain back from them into the oil pan at sustained high RPM.

I’ve just got the OEM followers in mine for now, buying 32 of the things exceeds what I paid for the damn engine 😆
 
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Chingon1 said:
@XR7-4.6 😅 the only thing they did recommend is upgrading the roller followers to the ford GT because they handles the stresses better at higher RPM’s. What lifter/followers are you running in your 4v? I know you spoke to Todd Warren about it.
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I used those in my 2 valve because they're supposed to restrict the oil up top which is an issue on these engines when run at higher rpm for extended periods of time to my understanding.
 
I've got a bunch of followers; they don't seem to go bad. But the lash adjusters do need to move. otherwise you get chipped cam lobes,and hammered valves. That's common in police cars.
I blamed stuck adjusters for my red car spitting out a follower, but I see that's wrong. I floated the valve, and the follower came out.
30th, yes, our engines fill the pass head at high rpm. it's possible to run the oil out the pcv, almost entirely, on a 40 mile drive over ~4k, lol.
 
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XR7-4.6 said:
minimizes excess oil being dumped in the heads faster than it can drain back from them into the oil pan at sustained high RPM.
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This right here. Also why many folks building high-RPM mod motors build/get custom 6-7+ quart sumps. :)
 
@XR7-4.6 talk about tight! Is that with those aluminum k member spacers you had before too?? And definitely it’s one of those things that unless your building a dedicated track car there’s not need. I didn’t now about that drain back problem. That’s good to know!

So it would make sense to put the mark 8 pan before I throw the motor back in huh, can the stock bird pick up work on that pan? It’s 1 quart bigger if I’m not mistaken
 
Chingon1 said:
@XR7-4.6 talk about tight! Is that with those aluminum k member spacers you had before too?? And definitely it’s one of those things that unless your building a dedicated track car there’s not need. I didn’t now about that drain back problem. That’s good to know!

So it would make sense to put the mark 8 pan before I throw the motor back in huh, can the stock bird pick up work on that pan? It’s 1 quart bigger if I’m not mistaken
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Yes definitely grab a mark VIII pan, it’s a direct fit, the oil pickup geometry is identical as the extra capacity comes from the tumor on the side of the pan rather than a deeper bottom.

Yes that’s with the spacers. It had more clearance when I first did the engine swap but after replacing the motor mounts while I put in the headers it raised it back up a bit.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Yes definitely grab a mark VIII pan, it’s a direct fit, the oil pickup geometry is identical as the extra capacity comes from the tumor on the side of the pan rather than a deeper bottom.

Yes that’s with the spacers. It had more clearance when I first did the engine swap but after replacing the motor mounts while I put in the headers it raised it back up a bit.
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Sounds good the JY is gonna be half off this weekend so gonna try and find a mark to snag it from. Thanks!

I’m kinda tempted to weld some plates on my motor mounts, they are the solid rubber and them bitches move way too much.
 
I have a chain welded on a forged Lift loop bolted across my driver's motor mount.
I hear the hockey puck mount is pretty solid. Hockey pucks are rare here.
On the stock 2v 96 cars,a bad motormount lets the engine rock up into the hood. This pins the throttle butterfly WFO. The stock brakes will not hold the car, with it WFO. This is NOT a ride I recommend. I broke 3 wheels, but missed the school bus..
 
@Grog6 i seen guys do that but me being the extra rediculous person I am, kinda wanna shoot Str8 for solid mounts haha. But that strap should work just fine.

Also, got the Melling m176 oil pump and the mahle rings today. Only thing left is the mahle pistons, should be here the first of January!

They are cheapy cast aluminum, all good. Gotta file fit the rings but not sure to what specs, I seen they should be gapped to 1” bore x .007 which would be around 25 for a boosted engine. But again I’m not entirely sure. Any tips?
 

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That's the kind of thing I'd ask somebody, but Oscar hasn't been around, and JL and nick only answer by Ouija board these days. No-one to call.
 
Chingon1 said:
@Grog6 i seen guys do that but me being the extra rediculous person I am, kinda wanna shoot Str8 for solid mounts haha. But that strap should work just fine.

Also, got the Melling m176 oil pump and the mahle rings today. Only thing left is the mahle pistons, should be here the first of January!

They are cheapy cast aluminum, all good. Gotta file fit the rings but not sure to what specs, I seen they should be gapped to 1” bore x .007 which would be around 25 for a boosted engine. But again I’m not entirely sure. Any tips?
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Nick used to recommend .022 and .026 with boost.
 
I mostly picked his brain about porting; he had a real insight. I ruined a bad set of 2v heads,and a set of 93 dohc heads learning what he was telling me. The 98 dohc heads doubled in flow, without removing a ton of metal, The c-heads I smoothed the trouble spots, sharpened the exhaust port convergence point, and flattened the inner curve into the cylinder.
The Mach 1 intake was poorly machined; there was a plunge cut thru the passage to the lower plenum. all the bs from the cut was still hanging there, to break off into an engine. I cleaned the top side. but gotta cut it to get the other side shaped. There's a lot of crap; I'd look, mach or cobra intake.
 
@XR7-4.6 that’s what I was going for, maybe 22 too and 24 lower ring. I’ve never done it but super PUMPED to get er’ done. Did you gap your rings when you built your 4v?

@Grog6 oh no way?? I’ve only seen people clean up the 6 holes leading into the bottom of the inner section. I would love to get it shortened up and shoot for the higher RPM’s. Have you seen the aviator intake? It’s a sweet looking piece. It they say it sucks cheecks performance wise, which idk because the short runner looks great and are pretty str8 to the back of the valves. Not FR500 str8 but better than the Mach or cobra.
 
Chingon1 said:
@XR7-4.6 that’s what I was going for, maybe 22 too and 24 lower ring. I’ve never done it but super PUMPED to get er’ done. Did you gap your rings when you built your 4v?
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No, my 4V isn’t built, I freshened it up with new bearings and seals but the heads have never come off since it had excellent compression when I tested it. Plus being NA with my intention of keeping it NA never really necessitated it.

Chingon1 said:
@Grog6 oh no way?? I’ve only seen people clean up the 6 holes leading into the bottom of the inner section. I would love to get it shortened up and shoot for the higher RPM’s. Have you seen the aviator intake? It’s a sweet looking piece. It they say it sucks cheecks performance wise, which idk because the short runner looks great and are pretty str8 to the back of the valves. Not FR500 str8 but better than the Mach or cobra.
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The Mach 1 intake flows way better than the Aviator one until 6800rpm. Richard Holdner’s done some shootouts with them

 
@XR7-4.6 I see that video, the aviator short runners are 9” long compared to the Mach’s 13”? Runner? I can see why it’ll lose down low but I bet with some work it can make up that difference. Todd Warren hates the aviator intake tho haha

@Grog6 I actually got a 4.6 rebuild book buy George Reed but it’s mainly for the iron blocks and not much help for aluminum’s. Kinda wanna return it to get that Richard Holdner book

@Bill H thanks for the heads up, metal chain strap it is haha
 
Not having it cost me 3 16" chrome rims, abd a near heart attack, lol.
 
Got the rest of the stuff today, cheapy mahle pistons look pretty decent.

I’m taking the internals to get balanced tomorrow, called the lady and she said I have to take everything INCLUDING the dampeners.

Isn’t our engine internal balance?? I’m pretty lazy to go take mine off right now, can I just take the internal and it’s good enough??

I’m taking -
Crank
Rod
Bearings
Pistons
Pins
Locks

Anything else I should take?
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I just realized, I’m putting PI pistons with the PI heads. Which will lower my compression 😭 I meant to buy NPI pistons to keep the compression high. Didn’t realized til 2 minutes ago haha.

I guess it’ll play better with the boost I’ll be throwing at it.
 
I bought a similar set, but I got the mark -3cc versions; I'll have it rough on running non-premum gas.
You should be in the 8+:1 range, I'll be closer to 10:1.
Those should work fine with boost.
Non-forged pistons leak less,make less noise, but won't deal with detonation.(or nitrous)
 
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@Grog6 I don’t really like that it went this low in the comp because the motor starts getting lazy and not as peppy as a high comp engine

Anyways getting a deal in these cams, they are the comp cams xe268h which are the lower lift for $300 but I’m unsure if I should go through with them. They are kinda puny and people claim only about 30ho gains from them, besides the slight chip I kinda want to get them since I already have the spring to handle them but, idk what do you think??

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Aren't those sbf cams? I thought we were talking about a cobra...
 
Grog6 said:
Aren't those sbf cams? I thought we were talking about a cobra...
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I believe they use the same part number but these are the “stage 2” cams, they are about $900 new off American muscle and the specs aren’t really anything crazy, but for the price I’m contemplating it. I’m just not sure I should just save the money and get something later down the road.

Does anybody here have a cammed 2v that can chime in?
 
I put the 262's in my explorer engine build for my 97 cat. These are slightly milder than what you're talking about but I do like the power in the car now.
 
Matt recently put stage 2 cams and kooks on his 4v, I think he was pretty happy.
Considering how much pi cams and a pi intake woke up Lazarus, I'd say tou should be impressed.
 
97 30th said:
I put the 262's in my explorer engine build for my 97 cat. These are slightly milder than what you're talking about but I do like the power in the car now.
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I just seen a video from Richard Holdner doing a shoot out with your 262 268 270 274 and pretty much the low lift 268 is equivalent to your 262 regular lift haha, I think I am going to grab them tho, they did show a nice 40hp gain on a non ported pi head.

Grog6 said:
Matt recently put stage 2 cams and kooks on his 4v, I think he was pretty happy.
Considering how much pi cams and a pi intake woke up Lazarus, I'd say tou should be impressed.
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I think you’re right they are so cheap brand new and I already have the springs in there. I’m just kinda worried about PTV but these on the FB group say not to worry. Is your pi swap cammed or did you port the heads??
 
Grog6 said:
Matt recently put stage 2 cams and kooks on his 4v, I think he was pretty happy.
Considering how much pi cams and a pi intake woke up Lazarus, I'd say tou should be impressed.
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I’m happy apart from tuning a stable idle 😆
 
Carb guys have it worse, I know guys who change jets based on baro/temp readings on race day.:)
 
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