Chingon's Engine Build

[CDsDontBurn]

With the proper tooling, the eccentric bolt hole can be made though.

 

[Zep5.0]

The bigger issue is that articulates a lot more than the strut rod end, plus plays a part in keeping the suspension "upright" where a heim would allow it to flex forward and back.

 

[Chingon1]

@CDsDontBurn that stock bushing has the hole offset and the Johnny joints have it right in the middle. I’m not sure you could machine anything to accomplish that. Well atleast my puny brain can’t think of anything haha.



@Zep5.0 which part are you talking about, the rear upper??

 

[Chingon1]

Here’s the typical out of focus picture over at SCP this looks like a spherical bushing also.

 

[Chingon1]

One step closer to getting this project done, I don’t like being pushy at all. It’s only on his spare time which is fine with me.

So far it looks pretty good, he’s gonna grind down on the sides where the side bolts go through, the welds won’t let the bolt sit flush on the plate.

 

[Chingon1]

So I wasn’t to happy with the other Johnny joint I went with earlier. It was a lil too small for the task at hand. This new one is weldable and is 2.5” vs the old 2”.

You can see it’s pretty much h a monoball in a urethane bushing. In a shell. Idea is to chop off the end of the control arm body wide and weld this on there.

 

[Chingon1]

So unfortunately, it seems like my engine is toast. It was ticking on Thursday a lil bit so I parked it. Friday afternoon after work I tried cranking it and it started fine for 5 seconds then boom, made a crazy noise and shut off oh well I figured it wasn’t going to last long. Drained the oil and it was glittery. my tune was pretty decent it had about 14 degrees of timing and about lambda .80 at full throttle so I’m sure it wasn’t that.


Anyways, I have a 98 cobra block complete I wanted to rebuild. It’s got the heads and intake but to keep cost down I think I’ll stick with my recently rebuilt and ported PI heads and intake, plus the timing component are brand new so I’d save some money there. I’d love the 4v swap but that’s just extra cheese to spend on it.

I do have a Mach 1 intake in my closet, and the JY has heads for 130 each so I can pick up a set of DC 4v heads! Still really debating it. Knowing me I’m gonna want to port them a bit haha


Anyways, since the cobra has a forged crank I was planning on getting the boss 302 rods (which are about $200 on eBay brand new) and some forged pistons to up the boost safely. I know the hyper’s won’t hang at maybe 15lbs and pump 91?? At this point It also makes sense to add some decent cams in the mix and really bring out the ponies.

So my question is…

1. Does my timing cover need to be swapped over to the 4v??

2. I think I read somewhere that the pivot point of the tensioner bracket where the chains ride in needs to be enlarged to a 8mm bolt since the stock is like 6mm I believe.

Any input is appreciated as always

Pivot Pin Ford 4.6L/5.4L/5.8L - Accufab Racing

Primary Timing Chain Pivot Pin sets are available in 8mm or 9mm to fit all 5.4L - 5.8L's, all 99 and up Cobra 4.6L's, all 4.6L 96-98, and 4.6L 93-98 Lincoln

accufabracing.com

 

[Zep5.0]

Could you sell the 2V stuff to better pay for the 4V swap? Just seems like now is the time.

 

[XR7-4.6]

You definitely need a 4V timing cover, 2V is way different. I’d stick with the 2V personally and build the bottom end to handle more boost to make up for it.

 

[Chingon1]

@Zep5.0 i could but max I could get is like $1000 for the complete top end, which would barely cover the rebuild of the 4v heads maybe. It would be cool but just not feasible right now.

@XR7-4.6 I think your right, my heads are already built and have trickflow lifter and decent springs already.
All I’d really need is a decent cam, those boss 302 rods plus forged pistons and that should net me around 600 at the engine hopefully. More than likely necessitating a built 4R haha