Chingon's Engine Build

[Chingon1]

@XR7-4.6 Thanks for the links! That’s definitely cheaper than rockauto. Did you rebuild it yourself?? I seen some videos and it doesn’t look too crazy, I got a quote for $500 labor only yea fucking right

 

[XR7-4.6]

@XR7-4.6 Thanks for the links! That’s definitely cheaper than rockauto. Did you rebuild it yourself?? I seen some videos and it doesn’t look too crazy, I got a quote for $500 labor only yea fucking right

Yeah I built it myself, it’s a little tedious finding the pattern but that’s the hardest part. The crush sleeve sucks too, I recommend just getting an eliminator kit

 

[Chingon1]

Yeah I built it myself, it’s a little tedious finding the pattern but that’s the hardest part. The crush sleeve sucks too, I recommend just getting an eliminator kit

What do you mean eliminator kit? Sorry for the noob question

 

[XR7-4.6]

What do you mean eliminator kit? Sorry for the noob question

Crush sleeve eliminator. Basically instead of using a crush sleeve you have to crush with a shit ton of precise leverage to get the proper pinion preload you use a thick shim and a smaller shim(s) provided in the kit to accomplish the same thing without needing to crush anything and you don’t need to worry about overcrushing where you need a new sleeve and have to start over.

The tradeoff is it takes some trial and error, where the crush sleeve for a pro can take minutes. For me I set up my diff on a bench, I just plain couldn’t get enough leverage on it to crush before the pumpkin would fly out of my vice contraption, it’s easier to do in car with a lift.

 

[Chingon1]

Crush sleeve eliminator. Basically instead of using a crush sleeve you have to crush with a shit ton of precise leverage to get the proper pinion preload you use a thick shim and a smaller shim(s) provided in the kit to accomplish the same thing without needing to crush anything and you don’t need to worry about overcrushing where you need a new sleeve and have to start over.

The tradeoff is it takes some trial and error, where the crush sleeve for a pro can take minutes. For me I set up my diff on a bench, I just plain couldn’t get enough leverage on it to crush before the pumpkin would fly out of my vice contraption, it’s easier to do in car with a lift.

Thanks for the reply, I watched a BUNCH of videos on the topic and it does seem pretty Str8 forward. I learn something new every time I’m on here haha

 

[XR7-4.6]

Thanks for the reply, I watched a BUNCH of videos on the topic and it does seem pretty Str8 forward. I learn something new every time I’m on here haha

Also desitin is just as good a way to see gear pattern as the yellow compound. You have a newborn so take advantage

 

[Grog6]

I bolted one down to the drill press table, but my drill press is bolted solid too.

 

[Chingon1]

Also desitin is just as good a way to see gear pattern as the yellow compound. You have a newborn so take advantage

View attachment 16593View attachment 16594

I knew it had other uses haha, what are those numbers you wrote on it??

I bolted one down to the drill press table, but my drill press is bolted solid too.

that’s what I was thinking, bolting it down to the table top and go to town. Plan was to buy a JY unit and rebuild at home instead of doing mine.

 

[Grog6]

There's a table in the front of the FSM for the axle position on the door tag.

 

[XR7-4.6]

I knew it had other uses haha, what are those numbers you wrote on it??

The pinion shim thickness I used and backlash

FWIW I did make further efforts to secure the diff to the table trying to crush the sleeve but it got to the point that the whole bench was lifting.

 

[Grog6]

I have mine bolted to the concrete. My workbench is made of bolted 4x4s, and has held a 4.6 cougar block. Which is a poor choice, btw. I slid the block under the bench with the hoist after it rolled off.

 

[XR7-4.6]

I have mine bolted to the concrete. My workbench is made of bolted 4x4s, and has held a 4.6 cougar block. Which is a poor choice, btw. I slid the block under the bench with the hoist after it rolled off.

It’s easier to just use a crush sleeve eliminator

 

[Grog6]

Crush washers suck, I noted while I was trying to put a trak lok in a 7.5" diff.
My neighbor had mercy, and helped me rebuild my stocker,in '10. If you can't reuse the side gears between a lok and non lok, my axles will suck getting out.
I feel better with the eliminator, it can't crush more under load.

 

[Chingon1]

Thanks for the reply’s fellas I think the eliminator makes sense in ease of install.



So another questions homies, I just got the heads back from the shop where they hot tanked them. My question is how do I go about cleaning the surface of the heads to mate them to the block?? I’m trying to assemble by this week already. I’m getting real itchy to drive this biotch

 

[Grog6]

Whatever you paid for "hot tanking," you got ripped off.
Those look "sprayed off with hose. " I've got a set of C heads in the garage that I had tanked; they're clean aluminum. The ones I did in my sink was cleaner than those.

 

[Chingon1]

Whatever you paid for "hot tanking," you got ripped off.
Those look "sprayed off with hose. " I've got a set of C heads in the garage that I had tanked; they're clean aluminum. The ones I did in my sink was cleaner than those.

Dang that sucks, how did you clean those in the sink?? I need to slap it back together asap

 

[XR7-4.6]

They got hot tanked with the valves and plugs in place? That’s a little weird.

Honestly when I put PI heads on my car I basically sent them. I used a plastic scraper on the decks but even after that they looked the same as yours when I bolted them down

 

[Zep5.0]

Very light scotch brite and brake cleaner, but wear gloves.

 

[Chingon1]

They got hot tanked with the valves and plugs in place? That’s a little weird.

Honestly when I put PI heads on my car I basically sent them. I used a plastic scraper on the decks but even after that they looked the same as yours when I bolted them down

Haha I was looking for this answer I just cleaned em up with some scotch Brite and brake clean and they look a lot better. If you thuggee it out like that I should be good, thanks!

Very light scotch brite and brake cleaner, but wear gloves.

thank you I just got that done earlier today!!

 

[Grog6]

I filled up a sink with tide, and soaked one side at a time, wasn't very effective on carbon. I bought a set of engine cleaning brushes from summit.
Second pass, I used simple green in water; That takes off the carbon.
Don't soak over ~15 minutes. Tide etches the surface, and eats the bearings out of throttle bodies and imrc's. Simple green puts a layer of phosphate on aluminum. looks dull, feels rough, and not good for a piston.

 

[Chingon1]

Got done installing the driver side head with the use ARP studs. When it came to the passenger, I couldn’t find 7 of the washers gonna call ARP tomorrow and get some asap.

Installed drier side complete head with cam and exhaust manifold.

Itching to get it back to life!