Chingon's Engine Build

@XR7-4.6 Thanks for the links! That’s definitely cheaper than rockauto. Did you rebuild it yourself?? I seen some videos and it doesn’t look too crazy, I got a quote for $500 labor only 😂 yea fucking right
 
Chingon1 said:
@XR7-4.6 Thanks for the links! That’s definitely cheaper than rockauto. Did you rebuild it yourself?? I seen some videos and it doesn’t look too crazy, I got a quote for $500 labor only 😂 yea fucking right
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Yeah I built it myself, it’s a little tedious finding the pattern but that’s the hardest part. The crush sleeve sucks too, I recommend just getting an eliminator kit
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Yeah I built it myself, it’s a little tedious finding the pattern but that’s the hardest part. The crush sleeve sucks too, I recommend just getting an eliminator kit
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What do you mean eliminator kit? Sorry for the noob question
 
Chingon1 said:
What do you mean eliminator kit? Sorry for the noob question
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Crush sleeve eliminator. Basically instead of using a crush sleeve you have to crush with a shit ton of precise leverage to get the proper pinion preload you use a thick shim and a smaller shim(s) provided in the kit to accomplish the same thing without needing to crush anything and you don’t need to worry about overcrushing where you need a new sleeve and have to start over.

The tradeoff is it takes some trial and error, where the crush sleeve for a pro can take minutes. For me I set up my diff on a bench, I just plain couldn’t get enough leverage on it to crush before the pumpkin would fly out of my vice contraption, it’s easier to do in car with a lift.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Crush sleeve eliminator. Basically instead of using a crush sleeve you have to crush with a shit ton of precise leverage to get the proper pinion preload you use a thick shim and a smaller shim(s) provided in the kit to accomplish the same thing without needing to crush anything and you don’t need to worry about overcrushing where you need a new sleeve and have to start over.

The tradeoff is it takes some trial and error, where the crush sleeve for a pro can take minutes. For me I set up my diff on a bench, I just plain couldn’t get enough leverage on it to crush before the pumpkin would fly out of my vice contraption, it’s easier to do in car with a lift.
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Thanks for the reply, I watched a BUNCH of videos on the topic and it does seem pretty Str8 forward. I learn something new every time I’m on here haha
 
Chingon1 said:
Thanks for the reply, I watched a BUNCH of videos on the topic and it does seem pretty Str8 forward. I learn something new every time I’m on here haha
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Also desitin is just as good a way to see gear pattern as the yellow compound. You have a newborn so take advantage 🤣

IMG_8229.webpIMG_8228.webp
 
I bolted one down to the drill press table, but my drill press is bolted solid too.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Also desitin is just as good a way to see gear pattern as the yellow compound. You have a newborn so take advantage 🤣

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I knew it had other uses haha, what are those numbers you wrote on it??
Grog6 said:
I bolted one down to the drill press table, but my drill press is bolted solid too.
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that’s what I was thinking, bolting it down to the table top and go to town. Plan was to buy a JY unit and rebuild at home instead of doing mine.
 
There's a table in the front of the FSM for the axle position on the door tag.
 
Chingon1 said:
I knew it had other uses haha, what are those numbers you wrote on it??
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The pinion shim thickness I used and backlash

FWIW I did make further efforts to secure the diff to the table trying to crush the sleeve but it got to the point that the whole bench was lifting.
 
I have mine bolted to the concrete. My workbench is made of bolted 4x4s, and has held a 4.6 cougar block. Which is a poor choice, btw. I slid the block under the bench with the hoist after it rolled off.
 
Grog6 said:
I have mine bolted to the concrete. My workbench is made of bolted 4x4s, and has held a 4.6 cougar block. Which is a poor choice, btw. I slid the block under the bench with the hoist after it rolled off.
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It’s easier to just use a crush sleeve eliminator 😆
 
Crush washers suck, I noted while I was trying to put a trak lok in a 7.5" diff. :facepalm:
My neighbor had mercy, and helped me rebuild my stocker,in '10. If you can't reuse the side gears between a lok and non lok, my axles will suck getting out.
I feel better with the eliminator, it can't crush more under load.
 
Thanks for the reply’s fellas I think the eliminator makes sense in ease of install.



So another questions homies, I just got the heads back from the shop where they hot tanked them. My question is how do I go about cleaning the surface of the heads to mate them to the block?? I’m trying to assemble by this week already. I’m getting real itchy to drive this biotch

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Whatever you paid for "hot tanking," you got ripped off.
Those look "sprayed off with hose. " I've got a set of C heads in the garage that I had tanked; they're clean aluminum. The ones I did in my sink was cleaner than those.
 
Grog6 said:
Whatever you paid for "hot tanking," you got ripped off.
Those look "sprayed off with hose. " I've got a set of C heads in the garage that I had tanked; they're clean aluminum. The ones I did in my sink was cleaner than those.
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Dang that sucks, how did you clean those in the sink?? I need to slap it back together asap
 
They got hot tanked with the valves and plugs in place? That’s a little weird.

Honestly when I put PI heads on my car I basically sent them. I used a plastic scraper on the decks but even after that they looked the same as yours when I bolted them down
 
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XR7-4.6 said:
They got hot tanked with the valves and plugs in place? That’s a little weird.

Honestly when I put PI heads on my car I basically sent them. I used a plastic scraper on the decks but even after that they looked the same as yours when I bolted them down
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Haha I was looking for this answer 🫡 I just cleaned em up with some scotch Brite and brake clean and they look a lot better. If you thuggee it out like that I should be good, thanks!
Zep5.0 said:
Very light scotch brite and brake cleaner, but wear gloves.
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thank you I just got that done earlier today!!
 
I filled up a sink with tide, and soaked one side at a time, wasn't very effective on carbon. I bought a set of engine cleaning brushes from summit.
Second pass, I used simple green in water; That takes off the carbon.
Don't soak over ~15 minutes. Tide etches the surface, and eats the bearings out of throttle bodies and imrc's. Simple green puts a layer of phosphate on aluminum. looks dull, feels rough, and not good for a piston.
 
Got done installing the driver side head with the use ARP studs. When it came to the passenger, I couldn’t find 7 of the washers 😤 gonna call ARP tomorrow and get some asap.

Installed drier side complete head with cam and exhaust manifold.

Itching to get it back to life!
 

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I came across this and thought about you in regards to rebuilding your 8.8" yourself. I haven't seen this video, but his other videos are pretty good. This guy was on the old board and had a 4.6 3V swap T-Bird. Seems like a pretty good guy that knows his stuff.

FWIW, $500 in labor to rebuild a diff doesn't seem too off base, especially for where you live.
 
KevinVarnes said:
I came across this and thought about you in regards to rebuilding your 8.8" yourself. I haven't seen this video, but his other videos are pretty good. This guy was on the old board and had a 4.6 3V swap T-Bird. Seems like a pretty good guy that knows his stuff.

FWIW, $500 in labor to rebuild a diff doesn't seem too off base, especially for where you live.
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Hey thank you for the link!! I’m gonna check it out.

$500 isn’t too crazy but when your B R O K E that’s too much haha
 
Got the heads installed yesterday finally after receiving the washers from summit. Timing chain is next and the cover right after.

Also I got this edlebrock intake off FB marketplace for $200 today along with that adapter from eBay that was $50 to my house. Pretty pumped, I know it’ll push the power band a lil higher than the stocker, on top of not having the possibility of breaking haha



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Chingon1 said:
Got the heads installed yesterday finally after receiving the washers from summit. Timing chain is next and the cover right after.

Also I got this edlebrock intake off FB marketplace for $200 today along with that adapter from eBay that was $50 to my house. Pretty pumped, I know it’ll push the power band a lil higher than the stocker, on top of not having the possibility of breaking haha
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Not sure if you need to be worried about hood clearance or not with that. I assume you'll need a 90° elbow and a throttle body pointed to the passenger side.
 
Chingon1 said:
Got the heads installed yesterday finally after receiving the washers from summit. Timing chain is next and the cover right after.

Also I got this edlebrock intake off FB marketplace for $200 today along with that adapter from eBay that was $50 to my house. Pretty pumped, I know it’ll push the power band a lil higher than the stocker, on top of not having the possibility of breaking haha



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You’ll find out why he sold if for $200 🤭
 
@Zep5.0 I was thinking about that, kinda worried but I did remove some of the metal on the underside of the hood which should help. If not I still have the ford performance, really hope it works tho, this thing looks pimp. IMG_9990.jpeg

@XR7-4.6 why do you say that?? Because do the lack of low end torque??
 
Curious to see how you like the Edelbrock intake. I looked at those a while back, but was concerned I'd be losing too much low end.

Here is another good video on 8.8" stuff. He glosses over a few things, but overall it is pretty informative. I think he has a couple of other sub-videos dealing with reading the gear pattern.
 
KevinVarnes said:
Curious to see how you like the Edelbrock intake. I looked at those a while back, but was concerned I'd be losing too much low end.

Here is another good video on 8.8" stuff. He glosses over a few things, but overall it is pretty informative. I think he has a couple of other sub-videos dealing with reading the gear pattern.
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Thank you for the video I appreciate it 🫡

I found this dyno of a guy, with a boosted 4.6 running the stock PI intake then the edlebrock. From what he said and what the dyno shows, it looks like he didn’t lose ANY power down low but gain major up top. Here’s the graph see for yourself. In an NA you’d lose some but depends on your gear ratio if you’d actually see it.


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