Cooler Installation Kit? NOW WITH POLL.

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Does it make a difference if the cooler is painted or bare aluminum? I would think bare aluminum has better heat transfer to the air (?).

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

The condenser doesnt always operate and when it does, temps should be 15-30 degrees above ambient. The transmission cooler a little over that, and the radiator being the hottest.

The radiator fan increases the air flow rate through the stack; so a sandwiched Trans cooler or cooler mounted directly to the condenser would benefit from the airflow when the vehicle is moving slower / stopped as opposed to a remote mounted cooler that relies on air flow alone.

But could it negatively impact the radiator, i.e., coolant getting hotter overall?

Case in point, certain years Panthers are actually like that, with the transmission cooler sandwiched between condenser and radiator. I can't say the exact year range, but after they eliminated the in-radiator cooler and before they combined condenser and transmission cooler in one. So roughly 2003-2005.

 

[bowez]

For radiate cooling painting it black is the best thing, for conduction and convection bare is better. Personally I'd say a light coat of paint to stop any oxidation from forming, the paint is more conductive than aluminum oxide.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Ok...so a little update.

I'm going through with my plan to connect to the lines just forward of the engine. To get in, I have to cut off these crimps:



Pictured is a junkyard unit I got for training purposes. It's tedious; it requires a calm hand with a dremel. What comes out is a 5/16 line with a barb.

From there on, I want a single piece of hose per direction of flow. No adapters, just a neat installation with minimal failure points.
Ergo, I need a cooler with 5/16 connections. In the OEM sphere, that could be an E-150 cooler; however, junkyard units are all filthy, and new ones are pricey. In the aftermarket, all I can find at local stores is 3/8; however, there are 5/16 options online. Which brings me to my next question: is there anything wrong with a cheap Chinese made cooler? I mean it's just an aluminum tube really... This one is on Ebay for $22 with free shipping:



They offer a smaller 6-row version, too:

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

And another side note: I was wondering if the cooler could be detrimental to air flow and thereby make the radiator run hotter...

But then I thought the opposite must be true: since I'm planning to bypass the in-radiator transmission cooler altogether, the coolant should be cooler because it's no longer flowing past hot ATF.

Any thoughts on that cooler I posted above? I'm leaning toward the smaller 6-row version.

 

[MadMikeyL]

I would go for the larger one. You want as much cooling capacity as you can get, and in this case, bigger is better. I wouldn’t worry about it being cheap or Chinese, other than maybe flushing some cleaner or fluid through it first to make sure there are no contaminants leftover from production.

 

[Grog6]

A black anodized cooler cools best. The difference between bare and anodized is large at high temps.

 

[massacre]

Do the manufacturers give any GVW info, or BTU info? That is helpful in choosing the proper cooler for your application.
Saving $$$ on a cooler is fine but don't go too cheap. Transmissions are more expensive than coolers, and a good cooler could save your transmission. Just imho.

 

[Grog6]

Tru-cool does; I'm using the 48k btu one.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Well, my Hayden 679 cooler should be delivered today. It's approximately 11"×11", stacked plate type. Meanwhile, I concocted a support based on the measurements from hyco bars and recycled junkyard hardware. The cooler will sit with the nozzles facing the driver side, because it's somewhat easier to route hoses that way. The V6 has the power steering cooler on the passenger side; plus I didn't want to clutter the area around the radiator drain; plus the transmission hardlines already point somewhat toward the driver side.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Fit check. Done for today. Kit includes insufficient hose. Bike ride to Autozone tomorrow...

 

[massacre]

On that type of cooler, aren't the supply/return fittings supposed to face the bottom?
Also, that strut on the left really should attach to both the top and bottom like the 1 on the right. If you can mount it on rubber that would be ideal. Just imho

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

On that type of cooler, aren't the supply/return fittings supposed to face the bottom?

From my reading, sideways is ideal to prevent air pockets, with ATF entering through the bottom nozzle.

Also, that strut on the left really should attach to both the top and bottom like the 1 on the right.

Agreed, but the left bottom sheet metal doesn't have that same hole/flat area to insert one of those sheet metal screw hole tabs I'm using in the other three corners. Even still, it sits very secure. I was considering limiting fore/aft movement in that corner with a strap from the bumper instead.
I mean Hayden suggests to install this thing using zip ties. I'm definitely making an effort...

If you can mount it on rubber that would be ideal. Just imho

You think it gets too much vibration mounted firmly like this? I wasn't considering that... Now I remember that the radiator and condenser are mounted on rubber. Is that a serious concern? I don't really want to revisit the whole installation...

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Anybody else on the subject of mounting on rubber?

 

[Zep5.0]

Anybody else on the subject of mounting on rubber?

Since your using rubber lines, is perfectly fine that way.

 

[massacre]

Agreed, but the left bottom sheet metal doesn't have that same hole/flat area to insert one of those sheet metal screw hole tabs I'm using in the other three corners. Even still, it sits very secure. I was considering limiting fore/aft movement in that corner with a strap from the bumper instead.
I mean Hayden suggests to install this thing using zip ties. I'm definitely making an effort

You can make a small angle bracket out of a piece of angle iron & drill 2 holes in it and bolt it in.

I always try to mount any type of radiator/cooler in rubber. But it's your car, you can mount it however you want.
With the rubber lines you'll probably be fine. All it would take is some rubber washers on your mounting brackets but that might be overkill for your application.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Didn't get much further today as the roommates summoned me for yard work.

I did install a second full length support bar. Thanks, @massacre :



Meanwhile, I took another look at the cooler and realized it's slightly warped. It didn't seem used to me (though the box was unsealed). Also, there was no sign of fluid whatsoever. Is this just the usual quality? Or is this an issue? I'd hate to delay installation beyond tomorrow...

 

[KevinVarnes]

Part quality. I'd just install it as-is. I'm sure it is fine.

 

[XR7-4.6]

I remember my Hayden had a similar twist to it