How to turn crank to determine if engine is seized?

[GRWeldon]

I just picked up a 95 with a good body but broken back glass. When I first looked at it 2 weeks ago the owner cranked it. It backfired and I told him to stop cranking.

When I got it home 3 days ago I tried to crank it but Amp meter pegs to discharge and zero noise from the starter. Starter has evidence of hammer marks on it so it's probably dead. I want to turn the engine through one revolution to check for interference however I can't find a decent method to turn the crank. I'm afraid I'd shear off the tiny crank bolt it I try to use it. Tried using a prybar on the flex plate through the tranny inspection hole but the gear is right under the casting and not accessable.

Hoping one of the more experienced wrenches might know of a trick...

 

[XR7-4.6]

I’d say if the engine’s seized shearing off the crank bolt is the least of the worries! It’s a 10.9 grade bolt torqued to 80ish ft/lbs, it should be fine. At worst you can rotate it CCW and see if it loosens(which it shouldn’t if the engine isnt seized)

 

[Zep5.0]

I assume it cranked all the way around when it backfired, right? If so, I doubt it seized in a week. Backfired seems off for a 4.6 unless the plug wires could be on the coil wrong? I'd find a cheap starter before doing anything else.

 

[KevinVarnes]

I agree with XR7-4.6. It is an M12 bolt so it should be able to take whatever you give to it. You could also try putting some extra tension on the serpentine belt and turning the nut on the alternator.

 

[MadMikeyL]

I promise you, no matter how hard you try or how long a breaker bar you have, you are not going to break that crank bolt. Having said that, you should be able to turn it over with a ratchet no more than 18” long.

 

[massacre]

Remove spark plugs, turn crank bolt with breaker bar it should turn over easily

 

[Grog6]

IIRC, it's an 18mm bolt. Ive turned my 4.6es over many times using that bolt. You have to do that to get to the tc bolts on the flexplate, and I've done trans replacement on all 3 cars. I agree it should be easy with the plugs out.

 

[GRWeldon]

Confirmed. Engine is not seized. Now to go on to change the starter. Such a fun job on a 4.6!

 

[MadMikeyL]

Quick tip on the starter. Obviously you know there are 3 bolts, with the top one being the most difficult to get to. Everyone immediately removes the easy ones, but then you have to fight the weight of the starter all the way out on the one that is most difficult to get to. Instead, leave the bottom 2 alone, crack loose the top bolt, then you should be able to spin that one out by hand. Once that is out, the lower 2 are easy, and reverse the procedure going back in, put the top one in last once the bottom 2 are in and tight.

 

[GRWeldon]

Quick tip on the starter. Obviously you know there are 3 bolts, with the top one being the most difficult to get to. Everyone immediately removes the easy ones, but then you have to fight the weight of the starter all the way out on the one that is most difficult to get to. Instead, leave the bottom 2 alone, crack loose the top bolt, then you should be able to spin that one out by hand. Once that is out, the lower 2 are easy, and reverse the procedure going back in, put the top one in last once the bottom 2 are in and tight.

Thanks for the tip. That is exactly how I did the last one. Taking the bad one out will be easy on the lift. Getting one from a parts car on the ground in the dirt will be the difficult part!

 

[Grog6]

I've never done it this way, but someone mentioned that going thru the hole under the fender liner with long extensions is easier. Seems like I used a couple of short extensions and u-joints.
O, if you're considering a battery relocation, thats where you run the wires to; the starter as the + lead, and the ground is on the motor mount, a two section bolt.