Iron Coyote

rampagingsloth

2nd Gear Poster
Joined
Oct 9, 2023
Messages
119
Location
Los Angeles
Vehicle Details
1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6
Country flag
Apologies if this was already mentioned -


Or the Werewolf block, I guess it's getting called? Very cool if you're into swapping a Coyote motor into your MN12. I take it from the video and from some of the YouTube comments that the aluminum blocks are already strong enough but this iron block can be bored out more and it's more rebuildable, is that the case?
 
Standard Coyotes have sprayed in cylinder liners so if anything happens to the cylinder it’s essentially kaput. Gen I coyotes and aluminum 4.6s have steel liners so they can be rebored and honed.

I don’t see any reason to go 100% iron in this day and age, the old Teksid block was 1000+ horsepower capable, coyote aluminum blocks are extremely stout themselves with the only black mark being the potential issue with the cylinder walls. Going iron just seems like a cheap solution to provide a foundation for high mile coyote swaps/rebuilds. The limitation on bore size isn’t the material composition but the bore spacing itself. At the end of the day you’re adding near 100lbs to the nose with this block
 
Last edited:
Not only that, but our cylinder walls are prone to wear at the bottom of the bores, due to horizontal forces. I can't see aluminum holding up where iron moves. Rings are steel, as soon as it damages the coating, it comes out. I saw the entire sleeve melt out of a 400 maico dirtbike in the 80's, when the first started doing this crap. They said it could deal with 40:1 oil in gas; they were wrong, lol. The liner of chrome stuck to the piston, and melted the jug.:) The iron liners are stout enough to handle the resquisite three oversizes, Which used to be the standard for refurbing engines; reference the oversizes available for our motors. Even the marks.
 
Last edited:

Similar threads

Back
Top