My 3650 swap

CDsDontBurn said:
Following this thread.

You will have your TR-3650 installed before I have mine installed, lol
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If it makes you feel better, ive been getting around to this for 4-5 years now lol. When i had to rebuild the auto i contemplated just keeping it auto. Hoping since it was rebuilt by a professional shop with paperwork only having ~30k on it i can get a good price for it.

Diggin through the old threads again and idk if i missed it or im not finding the right thread but i cant remember what year and transmission of corvette boot people were using. Did finally stumble across the one that confirms the length to be 63.5" for the driveshaft.
 
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I was going to say mine took as long but I got my DOHC engine in fall 2012, I wanted a manual with it shortly thereafter and eventually got it in in spring 2015. And in that span I rebuilt a T45 I decided not to use, then rebuilt the TR3650 I did. So yeah what’s your excuses? :tongue:

The DOHC swap on the other hand did take almost 6 years to get around to, between purchase and running/driving.
 
That is the ultimate setup, tho. 350hp,manual trans road car. And should you desire, you can add 100hp by adding stage 3 cams, for 2k.
 
Shaftmasters is telling me that i really should have a 4" driveshaft given how long it is and potential rpm. Think i remember reading that they fit with a little massaging correct?

Kinda scratching my head here with the clutch line. Spent hours googling this, all of the replacement hoses show the same male quick disconnect on both ends. Trying to figure out how to go from the male end to -4, doesnt seem to be a fitting. McLeod has a clutch line and bleeder here that i assume fits? McLeods own throw out bearings show the same hard line that my luk came with. If that fits then i guess i just need the -4 to old style quick connect for the master. As understand it though, i need a 90 off the master? Makes sense, i know the strut tower isnt far from the end of the master. Guess i buy another -4 hose that has a 90 and a straight and if i dont need it i return it.
 
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cj chaves cut one in half with the rear loop. It made a parting line, and it popped apart.
 
You might need to ditch the factory loops altogether and possibly clearance their mounts. That leaves the shielding around the tank but it might clear.

Doesn’t surprise me they’d recommend 4”, the 05+ TR3650s make it absurdly long

Grog6 said:
That is the ultimate setup, tho. 350hp,manual trans road car. And should you desire, you can add 100hp by adding stage 3 cams, for 2k.
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Plus a ported short runner or sheetmetal intake, ported heads, longtubes, crank and rods that can handle 8,000rpm… and then it’s not very road car anymore :tongue:

It’s maxed out, my next step would be a Coyote with locked cam phasers
 
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For what it’s worth, the 3.5” shaft in my 97 has been fine. I run a 3.27 rear, and I definitely do start to get a little driveline vibration a little over 100mph, but I have also ran it up to 130+ multiple times with no issues, so unless the car is being built for top speed, I think the 3.5” shaft will be fine. Although I will say that one of my eventual projects for that car is to try to make a 2-piece steel driveshaft like the factory 05-10 Mustang one, using the driveshaft loop in front of the tank as the mounting point for the center support bearing.
 
MadMikeyL said:
For what it’s worth, the 3.5” shaft in my 97 has been fine. I run a 3.27 rear, and I definitely do start to get a little driveline vibration a little over 100mph, but I have also ran it up to 130+ multiple times with no issues, so unless the car is being built for top speed, I think the 3.5” shaft will be fine. Although I will say that one of my eventual projects for that car is to try to make a 2-piece steel driveshaft like the factory 05-10 Mustang one, using the driveshaft loop in front of the tank as the mounting point for the center support bearing.
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Thats sorta what i assumed, but if i ever do the rearend im planning on going to 3.73s and especially if i get the coyote in there i can see being well into tripple digits... on the circuit and in mexico of course. Playing with the gear calculators and things 150 would be the top of 4th with the coyote and 3.73s, putting driveshaft rpm around 7k. If i were to put the .62 5th in at the same time, cruise rpm would only go up by 100 rpm too. Dont savvy why these have driveline loops, unless they didnt have much faith in the factory design of them.
 
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Another little hitch in my plan. Just found out that its $200 just to have my chip reflashed to disable the auto trans control. I can buy a mustang ecm for $100 here... Any pros / cons to just grabbing the mustang ecm? Could probably grab one even cheaper out of a junk yard. Cost isnt everything however, had read that the mustang ecm might also provide better tunability regarding decel.
 
Doxnoogle said:
Another little hitch in my plan. Just found out that its $200 just to have my chip reflashed to disable the auto trans control. I can buy a mustang ecm for $100 here... Any pros / cons to just grabbing the mustang ecm? Could probably grab one even cheaper out of a junk yard. Cost isnt everything however, had read that the mustang ecm might also provide better tunability regarding decel.
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If your car's a 96-97 and the PCM is for a 96-97 GT it will plug and play and work. The decel theory is mine which I'm not entirely certain about, I plan on trying a Mustang manual PCM to see if it works better than the auto PCM
 
XR7-4.6 said:
If your car's a 96-97 and the PCM is for a 96-97 GT it will plug and play and work. The decel theory is mine which I'm not entirely certain about, I plan on trying a Mustang manual PCM to see if it works better than the auto PCM
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So i would still be limited to a npi tune... how soon are you conducting this little experiment? lol
 
That's one of those things that if you want to know quickly, shipping him an eec to test would make it happen a hell of a lot faster, lol He can ship it back to you later. Or one like it. :)
 
Don Lasota still sells canned tunes; I'd bet he can and has done that swap a bunch. I'd ask. Matt's like me, in a way; we'll never be done tweaking, lol.
Damn, I just noticed Don has an editble tune option, for a fee. I'd pay for that, my tune started as a lonnie tune, and was edited heavily by me.
I'd just feel a lot better about it; the red cars og engine died due to a bad tune.
 
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Grog6 said:
Don Lasota still sells canned tunes; I'd bet he can and has done that swap a bunch. I'd ask. Matt's like me, in a way; we'll never be done tweaking, lol.
Damn, I just noticed Don has an editble tune option, for a fee. I'd pay for that, my tune started as a lonnie tune, and was edited heavily by me.
I'd just feel a lot better about it; the red cars og engine died due to a bad tune.
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Idk who those guys are, whats the best way to reach them?
 
lasotaracing.com

Emailed Custom Tuning

LaSota Racing Technologies is one of the first SCT Dealers in the country and the first in Ohio. When SCT needed experts to train new dealers to tune cars, they called on the experts at LaSota Racing to help with that task. LaSota Racing has been traveling and training new dealers since SCT started.
lasotaracing.com lasotaracing.com
 
So im assuming i need to have some sort of software and a way to interface with the chip in order to change the tune or is this only for handheld tuners?
 
Get an X2/3/4 and download the appropriate (free) software to upload custom tunes to it. Send in the build details form to Don and he'll write the tune and email it to you. Connect the XCal to your computer, use the software to upload the tune file, then plug it into you car and flash it. Don will probably ask you to use your XC to do some live data collection so he can fine-tune the program, so you will probably have to do this a couple times. :)
 
Thank you for details, i really appreciate it. Thats a bit more involved than i want to get with the 4.6, the canned tune i have on there is fine for now, just need to remove the auto functionality. When i get the coyote in it i will be picking up a tuner, or more likely just have it dyno tuned. Not a laptop in the passenger seat kinda guy.

Parts i bought for the clutch line look like theyre going to work out fine. That only leaves me with getting my chip reflashed, shift linkage pieces, driveline, the transmission itself, and a shift boot. Turns out, the shift linkage bits are low grade unobtanium. Every trans i find for sale got rid of them with the shifter, and every shifter i find got rid of them with the trans. Called a dozen junk yards and none of them seem to know what im talking about and have zero interest in actually finding them. Found one place that supposably has it and was supposed to get ahold of me but did not. The few driveshaft shops that got back to me want anywhere from 800-1000. Local shop wants 950 for a 3.5", shaftmasters is insistent on the 4" for 900. Can anyone confirm / deny that it is 63.5" flange to flange? Transmission i found has 8k miles on it from a totalled roush 427R track pack. To my knowledge its still just a regular tr3650 but i dont know that. Still trying to track down a nice factory-ish looking shift boot.
 
If the trans had any upgrades for roush the only part I am specifically aware of being an available upgrade for the TR3650 is a 28 spline input shaft rather than the usual 10 spline. I’d wager they didn’t change anything though.

I made my own shift boot, but I’m also a laptop on the passenger seat guy 🤓

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Got the trans home, yard in colorado is pulling my shift lingake bits. Just ordered a C6 corvette shift boot and some bronze bushings for the shift linkage. Looking over everything for final checks, it seems im missing the plugs to the vss and reverse switch, dont have a confirmed length for driveshaft, and i seem to be unable to locate my clutch master resivior. If i cant find my resivior it looks like i can get one for an S10 cheap. was able to find the vss plug on amazon, less luck with the reverse light. seems almost like the reverese light plug might be the same though, that would be nice. Was really hoping to avoid having to wait for a driveshaft to get built and shipped but looks like thats where im at. Either no one knows or no ones telling what the length is.
 
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I know I had posted it before on the old forum, but I can’t remember for sure. I’ll try to get the 97 in on a lift and see if I can get a measurement off that one for you.
 
I currently have around 34 tabs open from every mn12 forum thread that mentions a 3650, have been through most of them and used find on all of them. One says 64" but dont quote me on it, another says 60" ujoint to ujoint (shops want flange to flange and idk flange take up), another mentions 63.5 flange to flange but they werent sure either, they just used the measurement that someone else gave them. Im not trying to guilt anyone to putting their car on a lift, but maybe rifle through their paperwork folder for a driveshaft reciept if they had one. At this point, better safe than sorry. Only thing worse than waiting a week or two for a driveshaft would be waiting 3-4 and paying to have it retubed.
 
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I’m terrible about keeping paperwork, so it would honestly be easier for me to throw it on a lift vs try to find a receipt that may not even exist. I do remember that I told someone the wrong info once going off memory, and had to come back and correct it. 63.5 seems to stick in my head, but I’ll measure it to be sure. I am taking the 97 on a road trip for the eclipse next weekend, so it’s probably a good idea to get it up in the air to do a once-over on everything before leaving anyway.
 
I see they sell a shim kit for the throw out bearing, is that something i should pickup? Seems most threads dont mention doing it
 
If you’re using a new flywheel, then you don’t need it. That is meant for if you have to resurface the flywheel, if you cut .010” off the flywheel, you put a .010” shim under the slave cylinder to keep the distance from the surface of the flywheel to the throw out bearing the same.
 
I have my driveshaft in the garage up in the corner....behind a bunch of stuff.

I'll get to it tomorrow and get you some measurements if you're still interested.
 
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