My Kids Named Her "Dirty Bird"

MadMikeyL said:
Dalke's brackets are very nice pieces, and well worth the price, but long before those existed, DLF posted measurements and pictures for anyone to be able to make them with just a piece of plate steel, some nuts, and a couple Allen head bolts. So if you have an angle grinder and a MIG welder they can be made for less than $20 in materials, and if Dalke’s weren’t available, I would do it again, but it took me about 2 hours to make them, so I’d much rather just pay Dalke $100 and get the much nicer aluminum piece.
Click to expand...

Do we know if these are still available somewhere? TSTSNBN perhaps?

I can ask my metal guy and see how much he'd make them for. If it's less than $100, it's still a win.

I have an angle grinder, but no welder of any sort.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Yeah that’s me😆 However there’s no lathing, I used it how it’s supposed to in this case, just drilling 4 holes into plate and cutting/grinding the plate to shape. It would be cake work for any machine shop to do it as it’s literally just taking the hole spacing of the stock caliper bracket and adding another pair right above them by the amount of difference in rotor diameter(technically half that).


View attachment 15148View attachment 15149
Click to expand...

It looks like the allen bolt is shaved down some on the head side?
 
CDsDontBurn said:
It looks like the allen bolt is shaved down some on the head side?
Click to expand...

Yeah the cable end was interfering with it so I just shaved it down. Seems to depend on the cables, since even dalke’s brackets require it sometimes
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Do we know if these are still available somewhere? TSTSNBN perhaps?

I can ask my metal guy and see how much he'd make them for. If it's less than $100, it's still a win.

I have an angle grinder, but no welder of any sort.
Click to expand...
He had everything on his own website, which is now defunct since he passed away probably 12 years ago now. But it isn’t that complicated. You need to duplicate the bracket mounting holes 3/4” out from the center of the hub, and 1/4” in towards the center of the car. Then you need the Allen head bolts to bolt everything up. I forget the thread pitch, but that’s easy enough to figure out.
 
MadMikeyL said:
He had everything on his own website, which is now defunct since he passed away probably 12 years ago now. But it isn’t that complicated. You need to duplicate the bracket mounting holes 3/4” out from the center of the hub, and 1/4” in towards the center of the car. Then you need the Allen head bolts to bolt everything up. I forget the thread pitch, but that’s easy enough to figure out.
Click to expand...

They’re 12mm x 1.75

It’s more than 1/4”, I bought a handful of nuts from my local ace to find the right spacing but IIRC they are around 3/8 or maybe a little more
 
The official difference in overall height of the rotors is 0.24” (2.03” for the cobra vs 1.79” for the MN12) so 1/4” should be just about right. When I made mine, I just used 1/4” plate steel, and the nuts were only tacked in place to make assembly easier. They weren’t used for spacing at all. In hindsight, if you didn’t have a welder, you could probably just tap the threads directly into the plate.
 
MadMikeyL said:
The official difference in overall height of the rotors is 0.24” (2.03” for the cobra vs 1.79” for the MN12) so 1/4” should be just about right. When I made mine, I just used 1/4” plate steel, and the nuts were only tacked in place to make assembly easier. They weren’t used for spacing at all. In hindsight, if you didn’t have a welder, you could probably just tap the threads directly into the plate.
Click to expand...

Oh I see I was just referring to the nut thickness which I thought you were.

I tapped mine since the plate I used was 1/2” thick, but if I did them all over again especially now that I have a welder I’d probably use tacked on nuts on thinner steel, I probably wouldn’t have had the cable end interference if I had. That’s actually how the Fast Ed brackets were before Dalke was making the billet ones, in fact I have a fairly vivid recollection of the steel being only like 1/8”-3/32” max on the pair I looked at
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Back
Top