My Kids Named Her "Dirty Bird"

MadMikeyL said:
Dalke's brackets are very nice pieces, and well worth the price, but long before those existed, DLF posted measurements and pictures for anyone to be able to make them with just a piece of plate steel, some nuts, and a couple Allen head bolts. So if you have an angle grinder and a MIG welder they can be made for less than $20 in materials, and if Dalke’s weren’t available, I would do it again, but it took me about 2 hours to make them, so I’d much rather just pay Dalke $100 and get the much nicer aluminum piece.
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Do we know if these are still available somewhere? TSTSNBN perhaps?

I can ask my metal guy and see how much he'd make them for. If it's less than $100, it's still a win.

I have an angle grinder, but no welder of any sort.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Yeah that’s me😆 However there’s no lathing, I used it how it’s supposed to in this case, just drilling 4 holes into plate and cutting/grinding the plate to shape. It would be cake work for any machine shop to do it as it’s literally just taking the hole spacing of the stock caliper bracket and adding another pair right above them by the amount of difference in rotor diameter(technically half that).


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It looks like the allen bolt is shaved down some on the head side?
 
CDsDontBurn said:
It looks like the allen bolt is shaved down some on the head side?
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Yeah the cable end was interfering with it so I just shaved it down. Seems to depend on the cables, since even dalke’s brackets require it sometimes
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Do we know if these are still available somewhere? TSTSNBN perhaps?

I can ask my metal guy and see how much he'd make them for. If it's less than $100, it's still a win.

I have an angle grinder, but no welder of any sort.
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He had everything on his own website, which is now defunct since he passed away probably 12 years ago now. But it isn’t that complicated. You need to duplicate the bracket mounting holes 3/4” out from the center of the hub, and 1/4” in towards the center of the car. Then you need the Allen head bolts to bolt everything up. I forget the thread pitch, but that’s easy enough to figure out.
 
MadMikeyL said:
He had everything on his own website, which is now defunct since he passed away probably 12 years ago now. But it isn’t that complicated. You need to duplicate the bracket mounting holes 3/4” out from the center of the hub, and 1/4” in towards the center of the car. Then you need the Allen head bolts to bolt everything up. I forget the thread pitch, but that’s easy enough to figure out.
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They’re 12mm x 1.75

It’s more than 1/4”, I bought a handful of nuts from my local ace to find the right spacing but IIRC they are around 3/8 or maybe a little more
 
The official difference in overall height of the rotors is 0.24” (2.03” for the cobra vs 1.79” for the MN12) so 1/4” should be just about right. When I made mine, I just used 1/4” plate steel, and the nuts were only tacked in place to make assembly easier. They weren’t used for spacing at all. In hindsight, if you didn’t have a welder, you could probably just tap the threads directly into the plate.
 
MadMikeyL said:
The official difference in overall height of the rotors is 0.24” (2.03” for the cobra vs 1.79” for the MN12) so 1/4” should be just about right. When I made mine, I just used 1/4” plate steel, and the nuts were only tacked in place to make assembly easier. They weren’t used for spacing at all. In hindsight, if you didn’t have a welder, you could probably just tap the threads directly into the plate.
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Oh I see I was just referring to the nut thickness which I thought you were.

I tapped mine since the plate I used was 1/2” thick, but if I did them all over again especially now that I have a welder I’d probably use tacked on nuts on thinner steel, I probably wouldn’t have had the cable end interference if I had. That’s actually how the Fast Ed brackets were before Dalke was making the billet ones, in fact I have a fairly vivid recollection of the steel being only like 1/8”-3/32” max on the pair I looked at
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Just about everything in my suspension list is bolt on. The only part that requires custom work are the spherical bearings being installed in the shock mount for the 3000GT insert mod.
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Hmm any suggestions to just have a bolt on instead of custom work? I dont really have a shop or a garage big enough to do things like that so im mostly sticking with bolt on for the most part.
 
Mr.Klepto said:
Hmm any suggestions to just have a bolt on instead of custom work? I dont really have a shop or a garage big enough to do things like that so im mostly sticking with bolt on for the most part.
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Only “bolt on” option for the front shocks is the SCP QA1 coil overs I’m afraid. There really isn’t anything else besides standard grade replacement shocks available for this platform in the form of the stock shocks.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Yeah the cable end was interfering with it so I just shaved it down. Seems to depend on the cables, since even dalke’s brackets require it sometimes
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I used Dalke's kit for mine and ran into the same issue. Like you said I don't think it's the fault of the kit, probably the aftermarket parking brake cables I used. I was able to get them to work without grinding anything, but they are a little off kilter where they seat.

I highly recommend Dalke's kit... IIRC the brackets are aluminum, everything in it was great quality; it came with directions and the hub centric spacers for the wheels. It was $140 shipped when I got it a few years ago.
 
Kenz said:
I used Dalke's kit for mine and ran into the same issue. Like you said I don't think it's the fault of the kit, probably the aftermarket parking brake cables I used. I was able to get them to work without grinding anything, but they are a little off kilter where they seat.

I highly recommend Dalke's kit... IIRC the brackets are aluminum, everything in it was great quality; it came with directions and the hub centric spacers for the wheels. It was $140 shipped when I got it a few years ago.
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From what I remember, the rings aren't required of you're hub swapped, right?

I'll have to go look it up again, but that's what I remember.
 
MadMikeyL said:
Correct. If you are using cobra rear hubs, then the cobra rear rotors center on the hub as normal. But if you are using re-drilled MN12 hubs, you need the rings to center the rotor.
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Cool. Saves me a couple pennies 😂
 
I did have to grind a bit of the knuckle just above the bolt hole so that they lined up. An angle grinder with a sanding pad did a nice job.
 
Zep5.0 said:
I did have to grind a bit of the knuckle just above the bolt hole so that they lined up. An angle grinder with a sanding pad did a nice job.
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Yep, every relocation bracket requires this, I remember it being in Fast Ed’s instructions and assume it’s in Dalke’s

I think I just used regular cutoff discs in my grinder when I did it. I don’t recommend that if you value shrapnel free skin and eyes but it was quick work 🥴
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Only “bolt on” option for the front shocks is the SCP QA1 coil overs I’m afraid. There really isn’t anything else besides standard grade replacement shocks available for this platform in the form of the stock shocks.
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Hmm are the SCP QA1 coil overs alright or should I try for something better? I know I want that tubular kmember? so that when I can get me a coyote I can shove it in with out the oil pan issue but thats gonna be some work in itself. As of the moment im tempted on grabbing an f150s 5.0 and just getting the 6r80 transmission with it i just gotta find one thats not 4x4 which has been a pain lately.
 
Search around like I did before I bought mine. I couldn't find any negative or even lukewarm reviews of the SCP coilovers. Most gripes were over the cost, but honestly, I don't think they are that far out of line when you compare them to quality coilover kits for other cars. I haven't installed mine yet since I'm busy fixing everyone else's junk, but they look like very nice pieces. Best part is, the shocks are easily replaced or rebuilt if they do wear out.
 
Dalke is supercoupes unlimited, right? I bought a set from him a few years ago. a search brings up a facebook link.
 
The QA1's are great. I have the double adjustable on my 97. If I had to use any of the stock replacement stuff currently available I would have gotten rid of the car. I couldn't stand the soft mushy ride with any of those
 
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