New PRP tuner!

I’ll keep an eye out for that thanks for the tip. Having the tools alone to disassemble and assemble a trans are very unique. Which I don’t have and would have to get. I’m sure a book and vides can get me through it.

Atleast for now would I be able to simply swap out the TC with a different one??
 
So prettt much grab the flex plate aswell as the TC?
 
Chingon1 said:

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Rocksuto has these TC’s supposedly from the manager brand new. What do you think?
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I had a remanufactured Marauder converter in mine and I had no complaints. Used is cheaper though (note the core price)and it doesn’t need to be marauder for the stall, as all OEM 11” converters have the same stall speed for a given engine. Mark VIII, Mustang GT, P71 all use 11” converters
 
I was checking eBay for a maurader one but nobody is currently selling one. Cheap.

I’m still gathering parts and all that, gonna be like another month maybe before I do surgery on the bird. Prettt much it’s gonna be ported PI heads in doing myself, the vortech and the torque converter.

I just got that new PI intake. From the looks of the ports I feel like I can sand down a bit of the casting flash in the ports to get em a bit smoother I feel like they are tripping. You can see the big ass cast in one of the pictures that for sure I can grind a bit down with the die grinder and sand wheels. Also port #2 seems to be a lil bit smaller, the exit is noticeably smaller than the rest.

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That’s not a real PI intake, that’s a Dorman with “Made in USA” imprinted on it for Ford Performance to hock, though under boost its deficiencies won’t be too bad

Real ones don’t have any weird molding anomalies like that to begin with
 
I figured it does look like that weak ass Dorman one. I do like how they went about the rear port for the heater core, pretty slick idea. Unfortunately the old PI does performance intake is no longer available.which sucks ass. And they actually post a dyno video and this one makes 10HP less than the old version.
 
Got these parts Saturday. The ford performance head gasket kit comes with these rubberish cylinder things, what are they for?? There is 6 of them. Next to the exhaust gasket.

Still missing the valve seals, springs and timing kit with no gears. Got that stuff from modmaxracing, my question is can I reuse my valve guides or just get new ones?? I only see bronze online.



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Those rubber things are there to keep the bolts that are nearest to the shock towers elevated in the head as you install it as there’s no way to insert them once the head is on the block in car.
 
I use anti-seize on everything and would use it to wash my hands if it didn't get all over everything afterward. I would definitely use anti-seize on those exhaust studs. I have some special Motorcraft high temp stuff I use on exhaust (and 3V spark plugs).
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@XR7-4.6 hmm I kinda don’t get what you mean but I’m trying to picture it. So this goes in the bolt hole and the bolts go through the rubber?? Not gonna be til another month but I’m trying to get everything before I install. Was thinking about taking a week off work to, install the PI heads, put the oil pan gasket, throw on the supercharger and tune it.

@KevinVarnes thanks for the tip!! I’ll be sure to grab some anti seize! I’m guessing out the anti seize in everything that’s gonna see some heat??


Should I put a new oil pump while I’m there?? Mines working just fine.
 
Chingon1 said:
@XR7-4.6 hmm I kinda don’t get what you mean but I’m trying to picture it. So this goes in the bolt hole and the bolts go through the rubber??
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Yes put the rubber around the bolts on the uninstalled head and then put the head on the block. Once it’s on the block you pull the rubber pieces off the side of the bolts(that’s why they have that slit).

As I said the reason for them is because you physically cannot get the head bolts in that are directly adjacent to the shock tower, the length of the bolts and thickness of the heads won’t allow it. So those three bolts need to be loosely placed in the head to begin with, but also not stick out the bottom where the threads are falling into cylinders or the water jackets as you’re setting the head in place, the rubber spaced them up just enough to prevent that.
 
Chingon1 said:
@KevinVarnes thanks for the tip!! I’ll be sure to grab some anti seize! I’m guessing out the anti seize in everything that’s gonna see some heat??


Should I put a new oil pump while I’m there?? Mines working just fine.
Click to expand...
Anytime I am threading something into aluminum (especially stainless) I use anti-seize. Stainless threads can gall really easily so even more reason. Honestly, anything that fits or threads together that is exposed to the elements gets anti-seize on my cars. I save the Motorcraft high temp stuff for exhaust and other really high temp stuff. The rest of the time I just use some copper anti-seize. I've been dealing with rusted together crap for so long up here I don't take any chances anymore.

Not sure on the oil pump. If yours is original then it certainly can't hurt. I don't know what the cost is of a good one these days.
 
@XR7-4.6 ohh makes sense, I was wondering how to go about it but looks like ford took the guess work out of it. So I’m assuming it’s only the 3 that are on the lower half of the heads and closest to the shock tower, got it! Big help man honestly. Is there anything else I should be getting?


@KevinVarnes thanks for the link!! I’m in Cali so rusting isn’t really an issue but would be cool to use as a precautionary measure, I really appreciate it. As far as the head gasket should I use that copper spray on the gasket?? I still need to get the water tube for the PI and the heater core hose also.

I don’t think it’s much, and not sure I even need a high pressure one. Since I have a stock oil pan wouldn’t wana suck it dry.
 
Chingon1 said:
@XR7-4.6 ohh makes sense, I was wondering how to go about it but looks like ford took the guess work out of it. So I’m assuming it’s only the 3 that are on the lower half of the heads and closest to the shock tower, got it! Big help man honestly. Is there anything else I should be getting?


@KevinVarnes thanks for the link!! I’m in Cali so rusting isn’t really an issue but would be cool to use as a precautionary measure, I really appreciate it. As far as the head gasket should I use that copper spray on the gasket?? I still need to get the water tube for the PI and the heater core hose also.

I don’t think it’s much, and not sure I even need a high pressure one. Since I have a stock oil pan wouldn’t wana suck it dry.
Click to expand...

Only thing I didn’t see you mention was the water pump nipple, which is necessary to attach the PI water tube. Actually it might not be a bad idea to upgrade to a later model water pump while you’re there since you have to remove it anyway to get the old flared nipple out and the new O ringed one in.

And yep, just those ones right by the shock tower, the rest of the bolts go in without interference. Ford actually seemed to listen to gearheads when they came up with that, one of the common backyard tricks was to use rubber bands to tie those bolts together, which works well too.


You definitely don’t need a HO oil pump, stock is more than sufficient for a 2V, 4Vs only use them because they have two extra rows of lash adjusters and cam towers to bleed oil out of, and some say even on those the HO pump might be overkill(gen I mark VIIIs actually share the oil pump with the SOHC)
 
@XR7-4.6 i recently got that nipple, you mean the one that goes in the block RIGHT behind the water pump? If so I got it brand new from eBay. I also had swapped my water pump out like 2 years ago with one that has like a ring on the grooves of the water side. Should I put a new one?? I feel like it’s working fine tho.

Good to know on the oil pump, it’s the original pump so I was thinking about MAYBE putting a new one but it’s working great.

@KEVIN8989 hmm I always thought you use that to creat me a tight seal on the mating surface. I’ll be sure NOT to use any. So simply remove old heads, clean surface , put new gaskets and plop new heads on??
 
The ring is what makes the impeller closed vane, that’s a good water pump so just reuse(might not be a bad idea to get a new O ring seal for it if it gets damaged during the removal though.

MLS head gaskets don’t need copper spray, they just need clean mating surfaces
 
I've never used copper spray on any head gasket. Maybe on copper gaskets, but I've never had reason to use those. As XR7-4.6 stated you need clean mating surfaces. I would also check the head for flatness. I don't know what the spec on the 4.6 heads is. I usually use a parallel block and try to fit feeler gauges between the block and the head. I normally shoot for .003" max. A machine shop can check for flatness for you as well.
 
@XR7-4.6 ohh makes sense, I’m gonna get a new o ring for the water pump I’m sure autozone might have em if not rock auto. Any tips on how to clean the block?? I’m assuming a light sanding with a fine grit sand paper??

@KevinVarnes the heads are getting resurfaced aswell so they should be nice and Str8. I was told the copper spray should be used but I wasn’t sure as to how true that was. Good to know I don’t need that. Thanks!!
 
Just a scotch brite pad will suffice, don’t use sandpaper, the other thing with the MLS gaskets to seal properly is it needs to be a very smooth finish, not a typical machined surface older engines (including the 3.8 had) make sure you tell the machinist doing the heads you’re using MLS gaskets too just in case.

Personally I think getting the heads machined is overkill unless there’s visible gouges. 4.6 head warping is basically unheard of
 
@XR7-4.6 ohh I was over here thinking to do a super fine grit but I’ll be sure to grab a scotch brite pad when the time comes. I did tell the machine shop is be using MLS gaskets so I should be good there. Well I got the heads off offerup from a guy that had them just sitting there in his backyard and I just didn’t wanna any problems on the install. He also cleaned them, knocked the guides out and took the springs off.

I got this tool to pop the new springs in when the time comes. I have a pretty good deal in some xe268 cam’s for 400$ I was thinking of throwing on to.
 
Got my heads back today and unfortunately I poked through the wall on this runner, am I completely boned?? Would it be possible to weld it up a little bit in there?? If not it’s a wrap for me.




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