1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
Where the washer button is?
O/D off switch relocation
- Thread starter 1997ThunderbirdLXV6
- Start date
Where the washer button is?
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
I actually considered that...but no. That's too crazy, even for me.
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- Chameleon 1995 Thunderbird LX 4.6
The backside of the cruise control pod on my old Mk4 had a hidden momentary press button to turn the steering wheel button backlight on and off. That could be an option too.
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
Not much of a spoiler guy...
That's Saab'esque.
But what do you mean? I should use that entire pod, or just that button? Pic?
Solidly in the yuck camp on this one. It’s the worst of both worlds having both a console shift and a cosmetic column shift
Any button you can find that’s backed by a momentary switch. There’s some room inside the stock pod to put something small in without interfering with the cruise circuit boards
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
Lol. If I shorten the lever to about half its length, it'll be much more subtle.
I really don't want to do anything that requires modding the clock spring. But if I did, it would be a paddle attached to the back of the steering wheel.
If you shorten the lever doesn’t that kind of defeat the egornomics of having a lever though? Whole reason it’s as long as it is is so you can grab it with your fingertips as you’re still palming the wheel, same as the turn signals. With it shorter you’re reaching around, you may as well just mount a button on the shroud at that point(not a suggestion, just for sake of argument)
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
Not really. It would extend out to the rim of the wheel; I could still hit it with my hand on the wheel. About 4" shorter than on these pics.
Button on the shroud isn't good. On the side, I'd have to reach around the steering wheel; on top, I'd have to reach through the steering wheel. Both are awkward (though reaching through less so; it's ok for the hazards after all).
If I continue with a normal button, I think the best place to migrate it to would be above the rear defrost switch.
Meanwhile, today, the perfect situation and reason why I often disable O/D:
I'm turning from a country road onto the on-ramp of the freeway below. I can't accelerate too much down the ramp as I won't be able to see a gap in traffic until further down. So I maintain 40 or so mph through the downgrade. The auto would shift into O/D, which I distinctly don't want it to do because I know that as soon as I can see traffic, I'll accelerate, and it'll just have to shift back to 3rd.
Another situation, also today:
Turning onto a main road and accelerating when the light at the next intersection maybe 100 yards down the road turns red. I let off the accelerator, and the auto shifts to O/D. I'd want to just stay in 3rd.
Since the 4R70W is only a four-speed and one with a wide ratio spread, the jump between 3rd and 4th is pretty significant. I feel that responsiveness and driving pleasure improves quite a bit in the 35-45 mph, which is what a lot of local roads are. There's some actual usefulness to this idea; I'm not just obsessing. This time. I think. I hope.
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
On the subject of just a momentary button...this could work. It's about 1"×1.5". It would fit both on top of the column and above the rear defrost switch. I like that it's bigger than what I have now; something easier to operate by feel.
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
...operating it by feel it a priority. Which I think means that top of the column shroud is preferable.
Grog6
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I assume you just don't like the downshift, or is it that you're concerned with transmission life? If it's the latter I think it's a non issue. I would absolutely just leave the OD on at all times in your car.
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
I briefly thought about the foot switch idea, but I don't think I'd like it.
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
I mean I love transmission life! But that's not my primary motivation here.
No, I don't particularly like the 4th-to-3rd shift. I think it's:
- either a bit lethargic, if I force it with say half throttle; it does this step by step thing where it first unlocks the torque converter and then, if I give it a bit more throttle, shifts to 3rd.
- or a bit abrupt, if I force it with say three quarter throttle; it's not the shift itself that's abrupt, but the acceleration at that throttle position in 3rd.
The O/D off button helps. I can give half throttle and hit the button; it shifts to 3rd and the torque converter stays locked. Then I give whatever amount of throttle I need. Much smoother.
That said, again, it's not really about facilitating 4th-to-3rd shifts. It's much more about preventing unwanted shifts to 4th before they even happen.
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- 1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
3.8 problems 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
3.8 problems
Yeah, right.
One night, someone should go to your house and swap a 3.8 into your Mark. You'll drive off in the morning and won't even notice the difference!
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I had a 94 with the 3.8 I put 50,000 miles on before I got the 96 Mark; I'm well aware of the differences. That produced less output than yours!
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
Can't remember ever using the OD button during the time I owned a 4r70w equipped Tbird.. the 99 Jmodded valve body cured all shifting inconsistencies.
I wouldn't even call it inconsistencies. Before owning this car, I owned 10 brand new cars, successively over 15 years or so. Modern cars know, for example, if they go uphill and shift accordingly.
In this car, country road, 40 mph, cruising in 4th, road flat, then I come to an uphill stretch. I increase throttle to the extent that should be sufficient for the incline. It starts lugging a bit, it reluctantly unlocks the torque converter. I give more throttle to maintain speed; it spins the torque converter. Still more throttle; it shifts to 3rd (finally) and relocks shortly thereafter. I reduce throttle.
Or I simply hit the O/D off button at the foot of the hill and smoothly sail uphill in 3rd.
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
I know, I know.
And I used to own a 2000 Continental. That car was quick! And nose-heavy.
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
There just weren't any V8s around when I was shopping. And now I'm way too deep into modding this car. Plus I love this car! And I can touch 30 mpg on long road trips.
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I recall with my 94, a certain part of the commute I had locally had a certain hill. At the top of the hill the speed limit dropped from 35 to 25 MPH. I figured out if I kept my foot down as far as it would go in 4th, but just before downshifting into 3rd (just to try and maintain speed), that by the time I reached the top of the hill, the car had still slowed down but by just enough to shift into 3rd for the new speed limit.
One thing I do miss about it though - when driving through the twisties of rural SE Ohio during my flight training, the all-stock Coug compared to my stock Mark VIIIs... the Coug car had WAY better road manners than any of the heavy Lincolns. There's really something to be said about all that weight loss off the nose. It almost makes up for the lack of get-up and go.
One thing I do miss about it though - when driving through the twisties of rural SE Ohio during my flight training, the all-stock Coug compared to my stock Mark VIIIs... the Coug car had WAY better road manners than any of the heavy Lincolns. There's really something to be said about all that weight loss off the nose. It almost makes up for the lack of get-up and go.
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
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Nope, I meant to tease but it was in poor taste. Carry on.
Stock 4.6s can touch 30mpg on interstates if you restrain yourself(by which I mean 55-65mph rather than 75-85).
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I trust the instant economy readout on the Marks, the average readout is almost always spot on when I fill up. Seems like the best economy is right around 40 MPH - 32-34 MPG roughly - dropping slowly until you get up towards 55-60 (about 28-29 at that speed). Then it starts to drop more rapidly as speed increases, though that's expected because air resistance due to speed is exponential. It's also very interesting to observe how much wind effects economy; a 20 MPH wind pushing into you off the nose vs. one from behind can add (or reduce) 2-3 MPG.
I mainly drove my 94 in the winter, despite the cold it averaged a tad over 23 MPG over the time I had it. My best tank was 28 and change. Surprisingly the Mark VIII averages are almost the same - around 22 in the winter and 25-26 in the summer.
I mainly drove my 94 in the winter, despite the cold it averaged a tad over 23 MPG over the time I had it. My best tank was 28 and change. Surprisingly the Mark VIII averages are almost the same - around 22 in the winter and 25-26 in the summer.
Grog6
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The 2000 conti was a 4v 4.6 with C heads, I bet it was quick,and noseheavy; in addituon to the dohc engine,it had a huge transaxle in front.
I've got 35mpg one week,following a state trooper into knoxville all week
I've got 35mpg one week,following a state trooper into knoxville all week
1997ThunderbirdLXV6
PostWhore
On the subject of why to use O/D OFF, here's another observation (which may not apply to the V8 mapping?): an inconsistency at speeds low 30s to high 30s mph.
In my area, there are lots of roads where you drive around 35 mph. Depending on how you get to that speed, the transmission behaves differently:
[The only exception to the above is a cold start in very cold ambient temperatures, where the transmission uses 4th with TCC unlocked regardless how I got to 35 mph.]
In my area, there are lots of roads where you drive around 35 mph. Depending on how you get to that speed, the transmission behaves differently:
- Accelerate to 35 mph from a lower speed driven in 3rd: transmission stays in 3rd with TCC locked.
- Slow down to 35 mph from a higher speed driven in 4th: transmission stays in 4th with TCC unlocked.
[The only exception to the above is a cold start in very cold ambient temperatures, where the transmission uses 4th with TCC unlocked regardless how I got to 35 mph.]
