Rear seat wall speakers

Question:
Anyone run a speaker cable through wire housing in the drivers door? I cannot get a fish hook trough it because the wire harness is so thick and no room to wiggle in a wire. I was able to run wire on the passenger side without issue.
 
The only way to go thru that tube is to pull the ends of the tube out of the door and car, straighten it as much as possible. Then fish it.
I ran a 12AWG piece of zip cord thru there, it will go. Then put the tube back into the panels..



If you listen to anything with horns, woodwinds etc. a class D amp will sound bad. I don't use them; Satchmo is important to me.
My amps are class AB, and have been tweaked to remove most of the crossover distortion, staying Class A longer.
I can explain that, but long-winded engineering discussions of amp types belongs on an audio forum, lol.

(Satchmo was a horn player for Count Basie, if you don't know who that is, listen to "Sinatra st the Sands".)
 
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Grog6 said:
The only way to go thru that tube is to pull the ends of the tube out of the door and car, straighten it as much as possible. Then fish it.
I ran a 12AWG piece of zip cord thru there, it will go. Then put the tube back into the panels..



If you listen to anything with horns, woodwinds etc. a class D amp will sound bad. I don't use them; Satchmo is important to me.
My amps are class AB, and have been tweaked to remove most of the crossover distortion, staying Class A longer.
I can explain that, but long-winded engineering discussions of amp types belongs on an audio forum, lol.

(Satchmo was a horn player for Count Basie, if you don't know who that is, listen to "Sinatra st the Sands".)
Click to expand...
Thank you Grog for offering to enlighten me on the engineering concepts for sound, but I have tinnitus, so I don't think I would notice the diff between D and A/B amps. I just notice after being in the Town Car then getting in the Cougar, the sound was just crap in the Cougar. Now I know why and am correcting it.

Thank you for the idea to actually remove the rubber tubing and work through it while out of the door and body hole.

More to come
 
Next question:
What the heck is the plastic housing needed for since the whole in the door is a 5x7 speaker hole.

Speaker brace.jpg

speaker housing.jpg
 
I'm thinking it's to redirect the sound out the hole in the door panel. Or make the stockers less tinny.
 
I ended up buying a pair of those adapters when I put my pioneer speakers in place of the factory JBLs, which screwed straight into the door frame even on 94s
 
Irv said:
Because the holes were aligned for the pre-refresh door cards and Ford's bean counters didn't want employees doing any real work. but also the newer style 94+ dash covers part of the window next to the side mirror.
Click to expand...

With the doors closed the newer style dash also obstructs a few inches of the window glass next to the side view mirrors. They defiantly cut some corners with the 94-interior refresh.
 
I finally settled on a setup and am done with my stereo in the Cougar. After a lot of searching and testing and getting pissed off... I settled with 4 Blaupunkt 3-way 5x7" and two Blaupunkt 10" subs in the trunk. I put the 4x6 2-ways on hold until I can get some cloth to cover the holes up again. But this time I have a 4 channel amp for the 5x7's and a 2 channel amp for the subs, Blaupunkt, of course.

amps.jpg

And I have a new JVC KD-T925BTS head unit to drive it all home... It has more features than I understand, but it has a CD player. Most important for the misses so she can listen to her BTS.

JVC KD-T925BTS.jpg

Yes, I need to clean my car and wipe the hand prints off the amps in the trunk. The wiring is not that great for the amps, but some of the wires were too short, to stiff to mold in a nice shape or too long... "I'll get there!" Such is life. I had to get the mess in the trunk to a point that there wasn't crap scattered all over inside. Wife was not happy when she saw her car trunk littered with wires and amps and ... a mess.
 
I do have a question about the amp / sub box / cabinet, whatever you call it. The box is lose in the trunk and I was looking for ideas on how to hold it down so it does not go flying around in the trunk when I slam on the brakes or floor the gas peddle on take off or go around corners like it was on rails...

Any ideas? I was thinking of a bar down the center from the upper trunk to the floor. Or strap it down on the sides from the back wall. Something to keep it stable and in an upright position.

Thanks!
 
I have shock tower braces in the rear, that I got from Racecougar wbw. The sub box is bungeed to it. My amp stuff is mounted to plywood, screwed down, with a big fan on jt.
 
Use Velcro. There should be enough weight that it doesn't move, but that would be enough security for intense change in speed or direction.
 
Hey, I like the Velcro idea and just happen to have some laying around. A double sided piece of the sticky part will work great. Or I could staple the soft side to the speaker and let the sticky part rest on the floor of the trunk. Great idea!

Thanks guys!
 
Grog6 said:
I have shock tower braces in the rear, that I got from Racecougar wbw. The sub box is bungeed to it. My amp stuff is mounted to plywood, screwed down, with a big fan on jt.
Click to expand...
I wondered about screwing it down to the floor, but that would be a pain to have to take the speakers out run the screws in from the back side. My box faces the back seat, not easy to get to. I even thought of using a bungie cord around the back side of the box where the amps are, but then I had visions of the box flipping over the bungie and ending up with the amps smashed into the floor. Yikes!
 
I believe I am done for now. Since I won't be getting a pay check anytime soon and may be out of a job all together.... I will have to wait until I have some play money to buy the new speakers. For now, the 3-way Blaupunkt's will have to do.

Here is a pic of the strap I used to temporaly hold the subs in place until I put in something permeant:

Strap.jpg

I hooked it to the K (?) pillar. The Velcro tape I bough finally came in and I put a strap around each end, but the Velcro alone would need a very wide peice to hold to the carpet. So I added a strap of Velcro to the K pillar (?) and to the strap on the sub box:

strap 3.jpg

Final product:


final.jpg

(I know, I could not get the hand prints off with a cloth. Will need to use a detergent... some other day.)
 
This is what I started with, many, many years ago:

sub system.JPG

Yes, that is a real JVC CD changer. I would like to put one back in someday. Not only does FM sound like crap now (it did sound better at one time) most of what they play is the same old crap I have heard for the last 40 years.

This is the sub box I used, minus the tweeters which I removed. They are 10" Blaupunkt and work rather well.

IMG_4330.JPG

I had a Blaupunkt equalizer in here at one time, but if I would known more about audio sound adjusting, I probably could have made it sound nicer.
IMG_1007.JPG

I still have it. I still have a lot of my old Blaupunkt stuff.

Thanks for viewing!
 
I repaired stereo stuff from the 70's to ~95, and blaupunkt was one of the best built. Worst I ever saw was harmon-karden; One of their amps I worked on was just trash. dude told me it was $5000. :roll:
 
Grog6 said:
I repaired stereo stuff from the 70's to ~95, and blaupunkt was one of the best built. Worst I ever saw was harmon-karden; One of their amps I worked on was just trash. dude told me it was $5000. :roll:
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I am hoping my amps hold up to their name as I have found the speakers I have seem to be crap. Could be age though. The word Harmon-Karden only reminds me of stereo speakers for a computer. That is about all I know about them.
 
I use jbl for speakers. But the key is understanding that all speakers have a usable range, and using crossovers to keep them in their range. is my subs
I use a sub and 4 channels of coaxial speakers. My hearing is kinda fucked after 50 years of guns, cars, and dirt bikes,lol.
I have an Alpine deck that includes one, so I seperate it there, and the fronts and rears get 200 to 20kHz to their amp channels, and the sub gets 20 Hz to 200 Hz. By that graph, it's only moving hundredths of a mm, at 300w, and is a waste of power.

this is my subs datasheet.

There's a graph, showing cone excursion, or how far its cone movement -per sound wave coming out of the speaker at 300W. Exceed the max, and break it, and possibly the amp. Likewise, that graph shows it's usable to 20 Hz.


 
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