The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

I got the oil filter relocation kit today, and I found out the an-10 fittings on the cheap mmr knockoff plate are not an10. not an12 either. some metric equivalent. I got the 1/2 npt fittings I bought for the Derale part to thread in. I'm going to intstall all of the fittings with Permatex #1, same as the oil galley plugs. I get the teflon tubing tomorrow.
 
Oh, the stupid question part: Will a 1/2npt tighten into a 3/4 npt fitting? I don't see how, but I wonder.
 
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Is there anyone that makes custom gauge faces that mimic our style? I see lots of manufacturers that offer custom colours and lighting and whatnot, but all I want is a generic Ford speed gauge face in 220kph (since all I can find are American Super Coupe consoles--I'd like to swap the imperial one out but have it match in terms of style).
 
How do I remove the rear seat bottom? I read that there might be a build sheet under it and now I gotta check, but I don't want to damage anything.
 
Jae 'Bird said:
How do I remove the rear seat bottom? I read that there might be a build sheet under it and now I gotta check, but I don't want to damage anything.
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Push it back and lift, it’s held on my hooks on each corner

The build sheet is often under the very front of the trunk carpet or rear wheel wells, I don’t find them often under the seat like a lot of classic cars have them
 
Someone mentioned something about a cornering light relay Ford used before the multifunction switch was a thing. Where would this relay be on an 88 Town Car? Is there just one per car, or one per side?
Thanks!

The way I assume this relay works, and please correct me if I'm wrong, is that it uses the turn signal pulse as a trigger, but with a delayed return, so that it's output is constant while turn signals are on. How long is the delay?
 
It depends on the amount of current it's drawing. That's how the slow flash tells you you.ve got a burned out bulb. The ones that do leds have a 555 timer circuit. about a half second, according to the cop that wrote me for improper signaling. ( He didn't ike my 3 lane lane change, at 80, in the rain, lol.) That asshole wrote me for everything except reckless driving. Never scare the cop behind you, lol." I keep great tires", is gas on a fire, lol.


I didn't get dragged out of the car and arrested, that's the best part.
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
Someone mentioned something about a cornering light relay Ford used before the multifunction switch was a thing. Where would this relay be on an 88 Town Car? Is there just one per car, or one per side?
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Well, I looked at a junkyard car and answered some of my questions. There are two relays, and they're mounted directly below the steering column. They have three terminals, one for turn signal, one for cornering light, and I assume the last one is headlamps; plus the metal housing is screwed to sheet metal, so I assume it's grounded through the housing.
 
Spring caps/pads: the commonly recommended Prothane Mustang part is listed as lower only (Prothane 61709). Is there a separate upper part people use?
 
You buy two sets since the spring diameter is same top and bottom(unlike mustangs where it reduces at the frame)
 
It will sit taller for a bit after you replace them, they don't compress nearly as much as the rubber.
 
Yeah, IIRC I saw you mention that in a TCCOA thread. Good to know. I could use a bit of height, honestly: I get some nasty fender rub at times (what I'm hoping to address with new bushings and whatnot in the first place).
 
if you read that, you know it's also a lot stiffer. if it's a v8, leave the 33gg springs; you won't want sport springs unless you autocross it.
 
I have the Sport package which I gather has stiffer springs already (JJJJ). Are you saying I'm in for a rough ride combining these caps with those springs? If so, what would you recommend instead?
 
he’s being dramatic, I noticed no difference in ride quality with poly vs rubber there or anywhere for that matter with stiff springs
 
What is the best approach on a steep driveway parking spot that you don't know about? Try reverse first? Worried the vehicle is too low

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Uphill drug the pipes, and downhill drug the k- member braces.
 
I ordered a pair of sway bar links from Rockauto (one order) and received this. They came in two different Moog boxes. I assume that the differences are more than cosmetic and they're not the same part?20240604_094106.jpg
 
I’ve read the top ones before, not familiar with the bottom style. The demand for MN12 parts is virtually nonexistent, most manufacturers are clearing off their shelves at this point.
 
I certainly don't care at all what they look like, as long as they're the same thing. It's only that they both are marked as from Moog, but look different, that threw me. I guess my mechanic will tell me in a couple of days if they're no good. Thanks all.
 
I read someone say recently there were two sizes oem. Guess this proves it. The difference is the diameter of the bushing, it won't make a difference in operation. one is supposedly for a sport.
 
Question... Volvo Sadia wheels, 17x8, 55mm offset, 5x108 bolt pattern. Wanting to make sure these will fit on my 1996 LX...
 

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20mm spacers should be fine. I can't really find any 15mm 5x108 spacers that look like they can be trusted. 225/55-17 should be a safe size for those wheels on a 20mm spacer.
 
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