The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

That same expansion factor is why filling your tires with nitrogen from a talk doesn't expand and contract with temperature as much as wet shop air.
 
One observation I can share regarding the V6 is this:

The tank has two fill lines, one "FULL COLD" and one "FULL HOT".

Say the car is cold, and the coolant is at FULL COLD, operation is totally fine from here. Once the car has warmed up fully, coolant will not reach the FULL HOT line though; it'll be about an inch lower.

Now, with the car still hot, if you top off to the FULL HOT line, operation will suffer in that, with sloshing during normal driving, small amounts of coolant will seep from the tank cap and from around the sensor, evident through dried up greenish stains on top of the tank. Once the car cools down, the coolant will sit well above the FULL COLD line.


That's why I essentially ignore the FULL HOT line altogether. I check coolant only when the engine is cold, and only against the FULL COLD line. This way, I have no seepage and no stains on top of the tank.
 
Well now that brings me to potentially replacing the overflow tank. In your trips to the junk yard let me know if you find a good solid one.
 
Is there any issues with the rear track width being 2 in. wider than the front on our cars? I am curious, I would assume not cause DRW trucks have a much wider track width than the front and its fine, I just wanna check. I should share this is related to spacers but its preliminary.
 
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Does anyone know what would make the stock rear wheels sit more flush with the body, 1 in. or 1.25 in. spacers? I have been trying to measure but I honestly cant tell whats better and I don't want to go too far out
 
Went out of the house today and saw something white under the car. Turns out a plastic bag got stuck on one of the bolts and melted to the exhaust. I removed as much as I could, but this last bit won't come off, and it's too wet to get under the car.

Now to my stupid question: does it matter? Will it just "burn" off? Or do I have to get under there? I'm surprised I haven't smelled anything.

20250528_123514.jpg
 
You’ll actually probably have to scrape it off. The resonator doesn’t get hot enough to just burn it off like if it was on the cats, just hot enough to melt and make it stick
 
Looking to buy brake stuffs here before the weekend is here, and I have a some questions:
  • What is the company that makes the brake brackets for the Cadillac Brembo calipers?
  • Is that the same company that does the brake caliper relocation kit for the rears?
  • If not, who is?
 
Are there cobra size rear disks with our bolt pattern? I'm not ready to move to mustang wheels yet.
 
KevinVarnes said:
Super Coupes Unlimited (David Dalke) makes the rear caliper relocation brackets. Contact him through their Facebook site.

S&S Engineering makes the caliper relocation inserts for the ATS calipers. Make sure you can clear those with whatever wheels you are running. I've heard not all wheels clear them. https://www.ssengineeringllc.com/product-page/ats-xts-caliper-mounting-hardware-mustang
Click to expand...

I have a full set of Avid.1 SL02 18x8.5, 35mm offset wheels. I will be running 255-45/18 tires on these wheels.

Thanks for the link!
 
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