The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

I've bought them both ways; none of the local stores had them, but ra.
 
I heard someone wbw at the old place, that the most heat was at full assist, but I don't see how that's true.
 
I’m a noob when it comes to tuning, so don’t roast me here.

After my tune was modified for the manual trans, I feel like my cams ain’t cammin’ no more, is it possible that would be affected by that? I also noticed, when my cooling fan comes on the car almost wants to stall out.
 
Ericv8thunderbird said:
I’m a noob when it comes to tuning, so don’t roast me here.

After my tune was modified for the manual trans, I feel like my cams ain’t cammin’ no more, is it possible that would be affected by that? I also noticed, when my cooling fan comes on the car almost wants to stall out.
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Yes it’s possible, ignition timing, AFR, and idle speed can be tweaked to accentuate or tame lopey cams to some degree.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Yes it’s possible, ignition timing, AFR, and idle speed can be tweaked to accentuate or tame lopey cams to some degree.
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Thanks for the insight. I talked to my tuner, I’m going to send the chip back to him and he’s going to make some adjustments.
 
When you run into that kind of stuff, you want to do a datalog of what it's actually doing; I often find it's doing some different stuff than I intended.
Do a datalog, and send it to the tuner, and ask,"is this what you wanted it to do?" That is the way I do it, and Don usually wants datalogs to fine tune.
Log timing,fuel,ect,iat,and the open/closed loop flag. Take it for a long drive. You'll start out in open loop, then it will switch. I've had tunes work better in one or the other, but goes to shit when it changes.
 
Grog6 said:
When you run into that kind of stuff, you want to do a datalog of what it's actually doing; I often find it's doing some different stuff than I intended.
Do a datalog, and send it to the tuner, and ask,"is this what you wanted it to do?" That is the way I do it, and Don usually wants datalogs to fine tune.
Log timing,fuel,ect,iat,and the open/closed loop flag. Take it for a long drive. You'll start out in open loop, then it will switch. I've had tunes work better in one or the other, but goes to shit when it changes.
Click to expand...

Pretty much mine, it will not idle for shit the second it switches to closed loop
 
Does anyone else here tilt the steering wheel up when getting out of their MN12?

While I can get out of my car no problem with the steering wheel on my "driving" position, I have a hard time getting in my car if I don't move the steering wheel up before getting out.

Does anyone else have this or similar problem? If so, do you just deal with it, move the steering wheel, or something else all together?
 
I always tilt all my wheels full up when I park.
I like it all the way down when driving.
 
I never move my wheel unless I wedge myself under the dash for something, I think second or third notch from bottom is where I generally keep mine set for driving
 
I found an SC gauge cluster on FB for sale, I’m thinking of buying it and swapping the boost gauge over to my cluster. That should swap no problem, right?
I’d like to eliminate a gauge in the A pillar pod.

IMG_4431.jpeg
 
Ericv8thunderbird said:
I found an SC gauge cluster on FB for sale, I’m thinking of buying it and swapping the boost gauge over to my cluster. That should swap no problem, right?
I’d like to eliminate a gauge in the A pillar pod.

View attachment 15272
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I don’t love the 89-90 grey bezel but yeah it’ll drop right in. You won’t really notice it but the 89-93 bezels are shallower at the bottom than the 94-96 ones too, though they physically interchange
 
XR7-4.6 said:
I don’t love the 89-90 grey bezel but yeah it’ll drop right in. You won’t really notice it but the 89-93 bezels are shallower at the bottom than the 94-96 ones too, though they physically interchange
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I would just swap the boost gauge, not the whole cluster, I also think the boost is one with the fuel.
 
Ericv8thunderbird said:
I would just swap the boost gauge, not the whole cluster, I also think the boost is one with the fuel.
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It is part of the fuel gauge but the opening of the bezel for the vac/boost gauge is substantially larger than the LX one for the volt gauge.
 
Fellow SVO supercharger guys! Anyone have a part number for this idler pulley? It’s squealing and driving me insane!

It’s the one that sits under the alternator, I’d like to keep it a steel pulley if possible.

IMG_4433.jpeg
 
Something that's been "normal" on my car that hasn't "been an issue" but now that I want to figure out how to like my car again

(I still like it don't worry I was just frustrated I couldn't really drive it this year so I wanna get stuff fixed that contributes to it being work to drive)

is my brake pedal hisses when I brake, is there anything it could be other than a worn out brake booster? If there was a vacuum leak it it would cause it to run poor right?
 
Do you hear the hissing all the time while the pedal is depressed or just when you first press on the pedal? Do you hear it in the passenger compartment? Most vacuum assist power brakes do make a "chuh" sound when you initially depress the pedal. Is that what you are hearing?
 
hmm... I know when I am sitting at a red light, no matter how much or little the brake pedal is pressed while stopped it is hissing, yes I hear it in the interior, and yeah its not just at initially pressing the pedal its a continuous hiss. Of course I will send a video, but like in April when I pull the car out again lol. Its far away but 1. time moves faster than you think, and 2. if I start discussing it now I can hopefully have a confident solution next year.
 
Brake booster vacuum leak may or may not show up as a rough idle. At the very least, you can confirm this by shutting the engine off with your foot on the brake (in neutral) and see if you can release and reapply it after a few seconds of the engine being off. If it gets hard more or less right away (or doesn't hold enough vacuum assist to allow you to "pump" the pedal more than once before getting hard), yeah, it's brake booster time. :)
 
Bit mysterious ride for the bird today. Somehow the passenger side mirror was aiming way too far to the right. Though that mirror was on the side of the road where it parks in the neighborhood, there's no need for others to squeeze to get by. I don't see any evidence that there was a love tap of any sort

Then Im hearing a strange gentle thump near the trunk at 0-5mph speeds.

Theres a bout 1 MM of play when I press on the trunk.

I drove slow on the lot with the trunk open but theres still a sound, so it can't be that. In fact the sound 'feels' to come from the under carriage. I did compressions on the corners, and it replicated the sound maybe once during the dozen compressions. I may have the tire shop take a look when they balance the tires

@CDsDontBurn weren't you having a similar issue with a trunk-adjacent sound? Was it resolved, or do you remember where its posted?
 
Vicinity said:
Bit mysterious ride for the bird today. Somehow the passenger side mirror was aiming way too far to the right. Though that mirror was on the side of the road where it parks in the neighborhood, there's no need for others to squeeze to get by. I don't see any evidence that there was a love tap of any sort
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When I lived in Baltimore, my car was parked on the street, and I repeatedly found my sidewalk adjacent mirror adjusted all the way to the outboard side. I thought someone was intentionally trying to annoy me.
Then one day, as I was coming out of the house, I witnessed a "lady" walking up to my car, pushing the mirror glass, and bowing down to look into the mirror and check her lashes. I think her name was Classi.
 
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