The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

[Grog6]

There's a table;


Year
3.8L
3.8L SC
V8

1989
Front: 223-282 lb./in.

Of course, you're correct; I was remembering the rears, so only 800#/in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.
Front: 349-403 lb./in.

Rear: 509-637 lb./in.
N/A

1990
Front: 223-282 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.
Front: 349-403 lb./in.

Rear: 509-637 lb./in.
N/A

1991
Front: 223-282 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.
Front: 349-403 lb./in.

Rear: 509-637 lb./in.
Front: 270-330 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.

1992
Front: 223-282 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.
Front: 349-403 lb./in.

Rear: 509-637 lb./in.
Front: 270-330 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.

1993
Front: 223-282 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.
Front: 349-403 lb./in.

Rear: 509-637 lb./in.
Front: 270-330 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.

1994
Front: 223-282 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.
Front: 349-403 lb./in.

Rear: 509-637 lb./in.
Front: 270-330 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.

1995
Front: 223-282 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.
Front: 349-403 lb./in.

Rear: 509-637 lb./in.
Front: 270-330 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.

1996
Front: 223-282 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.
N/A
Front: 270-330 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.

1997
Front: 223-282 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.
N/A
Front: 270-330 lb./in.

Rear: 361-501 lb./in.

LX Sport Option:

Front: 349-403 lb./in.

Rear: 509-637 lb./in.

Definitions:

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

My spindles came off a 94. I can't search back far enough in my Rock Auto orders to be sure. It's a long story, but the short version is I had the upper control arms on the wrong sides. When I put the sway bar on it fit like crap so I had to lower it 1" at the bushings. Now that I switched the UCAs to the correct sides it sits high up front and I wonder if I need to correct the sway bar. View attachment 16461
This is with a 1/2 coil cut in the front and is a good 1.5" higher than the rear. I can't imagine the front is more than 200# lighter than stock, so I wouldn't expect this stance. Sorry, not a good picture, but all I have of the side

That is a beautiful cougar!

 

[Grog6]

I'm trying to find supercoupes in jy's.
What parts were unique to the sc, besides the blower and clutch?
Nevermind; there are a few in dayton.

 

[Grog6]

Matt, any chance you know the interior code for fold down seats? if there is one.

 

[XR7-4.6]

Matt, any chance you know the interior code for fold down seats? if there is one.

It’s not in the VIN. If it’s a SC and it has leather it has the fold down seat though, they were tied together options

 

[Grog6]

The door plate lists interior codes, I wondered if there was one for leather.
Guys with an sc with fold down seats, would you mind looking at your door tag?

Best I can find is this:
eather Indication: In Ford's coding system for this era, if the code starts with a "2" or contains specific letters, it often denotes leather, whereas vinyl/cloth codes differ.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

I think I asked this question before, probably last winter:

What is a fairly pronounced rattle at cold start? Car had been standing overnight. Temperatures in the 20s overnight, high 30s at startup.

Rattle frequency proportional to engine rpm. Very audible initially (~1,200 rpm), then less audible as revs drop a few seconds later, then again very audible when shifting into gear.

It lasts until about the entry of the cul-de-sac where I live, then it disappears entirely.

Should I give the engine more time to warm up and circulate oil?

The only things that make noise are the lash adjusters/valves, tensioners/chain slap, and the injectors ticking.
I've never seen a ford 3.8 apart, but I'd use the 'screwdriver stethoscope' technique to localize it. If it's the tensioners, it's usually cheaper to look, than to wait for the noise to quit.

After doing a bunch more reading and listening (albeit without a stethoscope of any sort), I'm convinced it's the hydraulic lash adjusters.
It hasn't been too bad recently, in spite of very low temperatures. I've made it a point to sit and wait a minute with the engine running, and the noise subsides completely.

 

[Zep5.0]

After doing a bunch more reading and listening (albeit without a stethoscope of any sort), I'm convinced it's the hydraulic lash adjusters.
It hasn't been too bad recently, in spite of very low temperatures. I've made it a point to sit and wait a minute with the engine running, and the noise subsides completely.

Being OHV, it's likely the hydraulic lifters. I would put 1/4 can of Seafoam in the oil a few hundred miles before an oil change. It will help clean them out.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

What causes coolant level sensor false positives?

In the past week, I had three instances of low coolant light. In all cases, it went back off within a few minutes. Coolant level is where it should be.

For those who remember when I first joined tstsnbn, false positives from this light were actually a recurring issue early on. Back then, I washed the tank, washed the sensor, and the issue disappeared. I also changed the coolant, but I think that happened quite a bit later.

What puzzles me about this is the fact that the sensor uses conductivity of the fluid in which it is submerged. And from what I read, if anything, that conductivity  increases due to aging of the coolant and/or deposits. A false positive would suggest a  decrease of conductivity.

What am I missing here? Coolant is 1.5 years and 20,000 miles old.


Side note: during my heater core failure while on a road trip a few months ago, the low coolant light alerted me accurately to the problem. I think it's a very useful light, when it works as designed.

 

[Bill H]

This is the plug for the brake fluid level sensor on top of reservoir. My current one crumbled in half. This was is a JY pick up. Middle wire is cut at plug.

Is it possible to repin this one? If so, how does it come apart. I am reluctant to just guess for fear of breaking it too.

On side note, I tried to search for new replacement but cannot find the correct PN. Would prefer that. Best I could find is that is comes with the whole replacement reservoir.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

This is the plug for the brake fluid level sensor on top of reservoir. My current one crumbled in half. This was is a JY pick up. Middle wire is cut at plug.

Is it possible to repin this one? If so, how does it come apart. I am reluctant to just guess for fear of breaking it too.

On side note, I tried to search for new replacement but cannot find the correct PN. Would prefer that. Best I could find is that is comes with the whole replacement reservoir.

You pry out that red piece. It should pop out pretty easily. Then take a flashlight and look in there. You'll see that every terminal is held in the plug by a little plastic tab. Those are fragile. You need a tiny flathead, such as used for eyeglasses, or a needle. You release the tab, then pull out the terminal.

I've done it many times without breaking the plug, but I suggest you train yourself first using another unit that you can spare.

 

[Grog6]

In my 96 4.6, the level sensor is a float. Mine would stick due to oil in coolant, from the oil filter adapter gasket. 100 psi oil goes into the 0 psi coolant at startup.

 

[Grog6]

I have two stupid questions for rhe Cobra calipers: Do they require Cobra Disks, and how much clearancing is needed to make them fit a 16" wheel?

 

[XR7-4.6]

I have two stupid questions for rhe Cobra calipers: Do they require Cobra Disks, and how much clearancing is needed to make them fit a 16" wheel?

Yes they require Cobra specific pads(though they aren’t any more expensive than GT)

Clearancing wise it seems they fit okay if you grind down the cooling fins and that middle area on top completely. It sketches me out but I’ve seen it done without issues. It might be partly wheel dependent too, YMMV

 

[Grog6]

RA shows both 10.87 and 11.57 front rotors, 276 and 294 mm, as being std, vs sports, unless I'm mixing up f/r.
I've guo a set of 16" chrome mark spirals; I'll mock it up once the car runs.
Getting closer.
I'm going to install the radiator tomorrow, while i empty the tank.
Wideband, Radiator, fuel rail, coolant, fresh gas, and it's good to go.
Im swapping wheels due to 15 yo, worn out maypips on it, I'll be surprised if they roll far enough to change them, lol.

 

[XR7-4.6]

RA shows both 10.87 and 11.57 front rotors, 276 and 294 mm, as being std, vs sports, unless I'm mixing up f/r.

You need MUSTANG COBRA 13” rotors, 94-04. Your not going to find them searching Tbird on RA.

The bolt pattern will be different but the hub bore is the same, so you just need to grind or file the 114mm holes to 108mm

 

[Grog6]

I think I have a set, for the swap. I guess What I really need is a set of 17" wheels or bigger from a mustang, lol.

 

[XR7-4.6]

I think I have a set, for the swap. I guess What I really need is a set of 17" wheels or bigger from a mustang, lol.

It certainly simplifies things

From a Mustang of course adds the complication of hub swapping, any 17” you can find in 5x108mm around 35mm offset(+/-5mm) will clear them as well if you aren’t too choosy about wheel style like I am.

 

[Grog6]

Looking at what I still need, even without the wheels, It's cheaper to buy the GT Calipers. I guess I'll get a set, and keep the Cobra ones for Lazarus.
Today I'm going to pull out the exhaust kit, and see what it looks like. If I bought it long enough ago, it'll be mbs.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

In my 96 4.6, the level sensor is a float. Mine would stick due to oil in coolant, from the oil filter adapter gasket. 100 psi oil goes into the 0 psi coolant at startup.

The 97 V6 doesn't have a float. Just two electrodes submerged in the coolant. No oil in coolant either, but the coolant does tend to leave a greyish, somewhat slimy deposit in the tank over time.

 

[Zep5.0]

The 97 V6 doesn't have a float. Just two electrodes submerged in the coolant. No oil in coolant either, but the coolant does tend to leave a greyish, somewhat slimy deposit in the tank over time.

Can you clean the electrodes? Maybe gunk on them causing the issue. If you can suck out the slime I would just to make sure it's not building up anywhere. Most likely left from the last stuff you pulled out.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Can you clean the electrodes?

Did that. So far, so good.

I'll do a full coolant change in another few months, and I'll clean it out then.

 

[Grog6]

I got lucky with the tru benz kit, it's perfect.
Unfortunately, my aluminum radiator got stolen.

 

[XR7-4.6]

What LEDs are people using in the climate control head? Preferably brighter than the stock bulbs

 

[Jae 'Bird]

What LEDs are people using in the climate control head? Preferably brighter than the stock bulbs

I don't use leds in my climate control as I simply havent bothered to take it apart but, in terms of brands, I use Auxito led bulbs and have not had a failure yet in various bulb sizes and about 6 vehicles and am very happy with the quality and brightness. So what ever size you were looking for, see if Auxito makes em

 

[Ericv8thunderbird]

I agree with Jae. Auxito has been good, I also like Lasfit.

IIRC I’ve had Auxito in my climate control for about 10 years now without any problems.

 

[Irv]

A strip of white LED ribbon with leads soldered to one bulb socket. You definitely won't be having brightness problems anymore.

If not for that, you all know I'm picky about color temperature, so I'd say VLEDS for any other interior bulbs.

 

[Generalee0527]

What causes coolant level sensor false positives?

In the past week, I had three instances of low coolant light. In all cases, it went back off within a few minutes. Coolant level is where it should be.

For those who remember when I first joined tstsnbn, false positives from this light were actually a recurring issue early on. Back then, I washed the tank, washed the sensor, and the issue disappeared. I also changed the coolant, but I think that happened quite a bit later.

What puzzles me about this is the fact that the sensor uses conductivity of the fluid in which it is submerged. And from what I read, if anything, that conductivity  increases due to aging of the coolant and/or deposits. A false positive would suggest a  decrease of conductivity.

What am I missing here? Coolant is 1.5 years and 20,000 miles old.


Side note: during my heater core failure while on a road trip a few months ago, the low coolant light alerted me accurately to the problem. I think it's a very useful light, when it works as designed.

There is a magnetic float inside that rides up and down the sensor. I recently had to replace my original tank and the only replacement I could find at the time was w/o the sensor. I have since found another tank w/ float and sensor so I'm changing it soon as I finish the timing chain and guides. I wouldn't try removing a sensor as they are brittle and I cracked mine. Searched and found sensor but I have no info on the float anywhere to potentially replace. I believe All cars should have them especially the 3.5l that likes to dump coolant straight into crankcase.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

There is a magnetic float inside that rides up and down the sensor. I recently had to replace my original tank and the only replacement I could find at the time was w/o the sensor. I have since found another tank w/ float and sensor so I'm changing it soon as I finish the timing chain and guides. I wouldn't try removing a sensor as they are brittle and I cracked mine. Searched and found sensor but I have no info on the float anywhere to potentially replace. I believe All cars should have them especially the 3.5l that likes to dump coolant straight into crankcase.

There's no float. There are just two electrodes sticking out at the bottom. The coolant closes a circuit between those two electrodes, which provides a signal to the PCM.

 

[KevinVarnes]

There is a magnetic float inside that rides up and down the sensor. I recently had to replace my original tank and the only replacement I could find at the time was w/o the sensor. I have since found another tank w/ float and sensor so I'm changing it soon as I finish the timing chain and guides. I wouldn't try removing a sensor as they are brittle and I cracked mine. Searched and found sensor but I have no info on the float anywhere to potentially replace. I believe All cars should have them especially the 3.5l that likes to dump coolant straight into crankcase.

The 4.6 uses the traditional float. For some reason, they used a different sensor on the V6 cars.