The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

Didn't know that Continental bought Goodyear. Looking at their belts, the "Continental Elite" looks exactly the same as the Gatorbacks did.

1745775710983.png

NOS gatorbacks are still around on eBay. This should be the correct one for a stock 4.6....
www.ebay.com

Continental 4060975 Accessory Drive Belt System Components - Serpentine Belt for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Continental 4060975 Accessory Drive Belt System Components - Serpentine Belt at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
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From what I can find, Continental doesn't make the "Elite" gatorback style belt in right the size for our cars.

edit... Actually I think I found them on eBay but it appears they discontinued it, so they are old stock too. :unsure:
 
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Here's my dumb question.


Is there a way for the EEC (MBE2) to see fuel level? I want it to read through my OBD2 app.
 
Kenz said:
Didn't know that Continental bought Goodyear. Looking at their belts, the "Continental Elite" looks exactly the same as the Gatorbacks did.

View attachment 11594

NOS gatorbacks are still around on eBay. This should be the correct one for a stock 4.6....
www.ebay.com

Continental 4060975 Accessory Drive Belt System Components - Serpentine Belt for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Continental 4060975 Accessory Drive Belt System Components - Serpentine Belt at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com www.ebay.com

From what I can find, Continental doesn't make the "Elite" gatorback style belt in right the size for our cars.

edit... Actually I think I found them on eBay but it appears they discontinued it, so they are old stock too. :unsure:
Click to expand...

My belt isn’t stock length due to the timing cover I’m using (I’ve been scrambling through my notes today but I’m pretty sure it’s 05 Mustang). I’ve seen the NOS belts but if they’re 10+ years old I really don’t trust them.
 
I did a google search the other day, and it took me to the conti elite.
They are also making the blue heater hose, but it's silicone now.
 
Stupid rear seat question. I know from the shape of the fold-down rear seat upper half that it's different from a stock Thunderbird rear seat. I also notice that the stock Cougar seats look different from the Thunderbird seats, at least the couple I remember looking at, the shape is more rectangular, less curvy.

So, my question, for a potential fold-down rear seat swap (if I can ever get my hands on one), are the lower rear seats different in terms of foam padding shape? I would think they would have to be to better accommodate the upper half resting on them. But, are the stock Cougar rear seat lowers the same shape as the XR7 or whatever fold-down lowers? They seem flatter than the Thunderbird stock seats. Or are the fold-down rear seat lower halves a unique shape for the Super Coupes and the XR7s? I'm also assuming the lower halves are consistent from like '91 to '97 for each car model but that's just a guess.
 
The foam shape is different, but I think it's a difference between 1st gen and 2nd gen seat designs more than it is Cougar vs. T-bird molds. I do remember the lower part being curved up at the back for the middle seat; I never installed it because I wanted to keep the stock 97 seat belt arrangement (where they come up through slits in the seat bottom, rather than through the gap between the bottom and back).

I briefly had an early XR7 fold down seat back with my stock 97 seat bottom, and it didn't line up quite right. All the same, I had them reupholstered to match and it's not too bad.

1746137528257.png
 
94-97 Cougar rear seats use the same foam/pattern as the SC rear seats, so yeah the bottom would be a good match with a fold down upper
 
Here is a stupid question. If a free set of 3v heads from a 5.4 used phaser lockouts could they be bolted on my non-pi block for any improvement? I know the exhaust and intake would have to be changed but would it benefit anything over the pi?. I have a set in the garage from a rebuild I did years ago and I don't have a use for them except maybe my excursion w/ 2v 5.4. I would put them on the Tbird if they would help any. I know valve covers would have to change but I'm not sure about front cover.
 
Generalee0527 said:
Here is a stupid question. If a free set of 3v heads from a 5.4 used phaser lockouts could they be bolted on my non-pi block for any improvement? I know the exhaust and intake would have to be changed but would it benefit anything over the pi?. I have a set in the garage from a rebuild I did years ago and I don't have a use for them except maybe my excursion w/ 2v 5.4. I would put them on the Tbird if they would help any. I know valve covers would have to change but I'm not sure about front cover.
Click to expand...

Yes you’d need the 4.6 3V front cover. Not worth it.
 
It might gain something, but likely not worth the expense and aggravation of the swap. The combustion chambers on the 3v head are slightly larger than the NPI, so you would lose a little compression. You will also lose significant mid-range power with the cams locked out compared to the stock 3v motor. Plus you have to deal with the different layout of the intake manifold and possible exhaust manifold fitment issues. You would likely make more power for less money with just a PI top end swap.
 
Where exactly are the holes on the 96/97 trunk lid behind the Badges? (Pics please.)

I'd like to replace the cursive Thunderbird with this, as well as the Ford oval with the "LX" badge.

20250503_122227.jpg
 
MadMikeyL said:
It might gain something, but likely not worth the expense and aggravation of the swap. The combustion chambers on the 3v head are slightly larger than the NPI, so you would lose a little compression. You will also lose significant mid-range power with the cams locked out compared to the stock 3v motor. Plus you have to deal with the different layout of the intake manifold and possible exhaust manifold fitment issues. You would likely make more power for less money with just a PI top end swap.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I was wanting to get rid of the heads and was kinda going hmmm? Found a complete '07 2v engine on market place for $850. Thinking I have an engine swap coming since mine has 369k and I believe I'm eating the chain guide on right side. So at least it already has the pi heads but dished pistons.
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
...and to elaborate on my question: are all the holes in one straight line, or do some sit higher/lower?
Click to expand...

I think the hole for the T is higher up than the other two. I remember ages ago at TSTNBN someone used the retro Thunderbird emblem in place of the 96-97 one and it perfectly covered them
 
The badges are on with tape on my cougars. Unless you're talking about lights.
 
Apparently there's a pin at the top of the T and the bottom of the L. That is a problem for my idea, because the emblem I want to use wouldn't cover both. Too bad...

I really wanted to get rid of the Ford oval, and I also don't like the font of the stock badge at all.

s-l1200.webp
 
I'd grind the pin off 3m tape doesn't let go easily.
If you dislike the font, look for emblems on ebay or amazon.
 
I was on a longer work trip with my TBird, when it failed to start after stopping for a break. No crank, no click. Electronics do go off when trying to start though. That accompanied with some of the car's other "features", it's beginning to look like a bad MLPS..

Now the question, was it possible to "override" the MLPS by just routing a wire (with a switch) from battery positive terminal to the starters "S" terminal? And hit the switch when turning the key, and the car should crank, if it was the MLPS... I remember reading a post on the tccoa forums of someone doing something like this for years or so.

Some context: Starter motor is good, battery is good, flexplate is worn out (and I'm familiar to dealing with that). I had to have the car towed to a nearby shop to continue my trip, and they're about to investigate it next week. Now I'm planning to instruct the mechanics to just get it starting by any hacks necessary. Once they manage to get it running I'll just drive it home and fix it better myself ..
 
I've had to move the shifter around to get it to start. It should start in park or neutral. If the dash is lighting up, a starter bypass should work.
 
I have been having intermittent turn signal issues. Where randomly both turn signals stop working, except the hazard lights work fine, and the wipers and windshield washer works fine. Is this a sign I need to clean the multifunction switch? and how hard is it to remove?
 
Yes, I would start with cleaning and re-greasing the multifunction switch. It isn’t hard, once the trim is off the column, I think there are 2 screws that hold it to the column, then once it is off there are just plastic clips around it that you gently pry back and separate the housing.
 
This is gonna be a really stupid question, but, can the inner tie rods be replaced? I can't find the procedure in the Haynes manual. without looking into it I purchased both inner and out tie rods when I was on Rockauto because they were super affordable and it would only increase shipping by $1.86 so I figured hey why not, my steering is pretty loose and it needs to be done. But its not obvious if it is replaceable. I know I need the special tool but I can rent that for free from Part Source.
 
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