The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

I'm noticing what I think is some pretty serious rear "wobble" in the back when I go over almost any bump, no matter how small. The car rocks back and forth, left to right, more than I think is appropriate. The front suspension is all new: everything replaced just a year back. For the rear, the shocks are about a year old, the end links are new, and the rear spring isolators are new. Everything else is I suspect original.

With all that being said, anyone have any idea what I should look at first as a culprit?
 
The rubber bushings rot and allow the suspension geometry to go all over the place when the suspension is compressed or deflects when going over bumps - usually causing a toe-out condition which yanks the rear of the car to the side.

New knuckle and CA to subframe bushings is the fix. If you go poly instead of rubber you can essentially fix it permanently, with the added bonus of reducing wheelhop. Technically there is an increase in NVH but most don't notice it.
 
As I was afraid of. Thanks.

Anyone have any issues with the Mevotech toe compensators?
 
Rebuilding a window motor, what grease should I use?
 
Something silicone based is best for plastic. Sil-Glyde is a pretty good grease. I think SuperLube makes a good silicone grease as well. I've also just used generic axle/bearing grease in the past, but it can damage the plastic over time. White lithium is probably okay too, but I don't like using it in areas that are hard to access since it seems to dry out faster than other greases.
 
I’ll have to check those out. I have bearing grease, chassis grade and some white lithium, but not silicon based. I’ll need to pick some up. I’m going to preventively rebuild the drivers side also.
 
A couple questions here:

1. Would you guys shop Rock Auto for parts if they can be had for cheaper on Amazon (total price, not individual unit price)?
1a. With Amazon Prime, you get your parts within 2 days whereas RA you get the parts in about a week.

2. Would you guys be OK with getting Amazon returned items for car parts not knowing anything else beyond "Looks new. Minor packaging damage"?

I'm asking these specifically to the Cadillac J55 calipers.

Also, with the used unit, I'm not sure if it would include the caliper hardware, so there's that too...
 
I honestly don't trust anything from Amazon. RA is usually no more than 2-3 days for me, but most of my stuff ships from the east coast and I'm in Michigan. If it ships from CA or TX then 3-4 days. I find that they are usually conservative on their ship time estimates, but with you being on the west coast it might take as long as they say. I've generally found that if I order before noon EST then the part will ship out that day (like actually physically ship out, not just a shipping label has been created). If you order after that it's 50/50 and may ship the next day.
 
And I don't have a problem buying from Amazon if it's NIB item. But open box items, I've only ever purchased one item before. It was a good experience, but it was essentially just a tube, LOL.

For my experience with RA purchases, I'll be getting the item when they say I'm getting the item. In this case, they're saying July 8, 10 days from now.
 
Returned on Amazon and even RockAuto is hit or miss. I've gotten the wrong part in the right box before. I will say Amazon's return policy is easy, but you're wasting even more time at that point. I have created the same cart in both stores and compared prices before. If it actually ships from Amazon you'll get it on prime, but otherwise it seems to ship from the same warehouses as Rockauto.
 
I have done both. Mostly good experience. Not sure about open box. I'd be hesitant on something that could have a small piece missing (bleeder fittings).
 
How does the center cap come off the wheel? I didn't see any clips from the back side and there isn't any sort of lip on the front side.
 
So just push them out? How much pressure needs to be applied? I felt it was quite a bit of pressure and they still wouldn't budge.
 
Sounds good. No need to worry about anything breaking off, like tabs?
 
Mine practically fall off, but I'm running them on SC wheels. Honestly, even if you break them, you can find them for pretty cheap on ebay. It was just borrowed from the Taurus parts bin. Search under the part number in this auction and you'll find a ton more for around $10.
www.ebay.com

Single OEM Center Cap For 1992-1995 Ford Taurus F2DC-1A096-AA 3107 | eBay

Please VERIFY THE PART NUMBER on your current center cap or hubcap before purchasing. Some center caps/hubcaps look the same but are different sizes. Our primary purpose is for both parties (buyer and seller) to save money and time on returns. Your satisfaction is essential to us. Brand Ford...
www.ebay.com
 
This is how I knock the centers out of bigger wheels with the small caps, I’ve never done it myself to sport wheels but the retaining method is exactly the same, just larger.
 
A couple stupid sun visor questions -

1) Visors from a '92 Thunderbird will mount into a '95 Thunderbird (same mounting screw positions), right? The design for the mounting area looks identical.

2) If the '92 visors have the mirrors with the lights option and have a connection to power, and the '95 Thunderbird just has regular visors with mirrors but no lights, can the '92 visors be made to get power? I assume there is a wiring harness for the dome light that provides the power to the visors, but did all Thunderbirds get the same harness regardless of visor type or is that special harness that I need to track down separately? Or can a couple leads be added to the dome light connection to feed to the visors?
 
Moonroof and non moonroof visors are different and will have different mounting points. I’m fairly certain the lighting wires are a miraculously prewired part, though you might have to partially drop the headliner to find them anyway
 
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