The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

CDsDontBurn said:
These are JY finds only these days, right?

What other 4.6 platforms or year ranges have the green and red hoses that I could take from?
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Given the break happened right at the junction I’d just pluck the broken off stub left in the rubber out and and slip the remaining green line into it

Actually looking at it it looks like it’s already been bodged at some point, it looks like the green line is only a stub itself with a rubber hose in place of it. From the factory there should be loom over both the red and green lines all the way
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Given the break happened right at the junction I’d just pluck the broken off stub left in the rubber out and and slip the remaining green line into it

Actually looking at it it looks like it’s already been bodged at some point, it looks like the green line is only a stub itself with a rubber hose in place of it. From the factory there should be loom over both the red and green lines all the way
Click to expand...

The PO showed me that it failed emissions testing back in 2021 (or thereabouts) and it may have been the green hose that failed. The red and green hoses don't have any look whatsoever and the green hose isn't a hard line, it's rather soft.
 
If you measure it with a meter, it's supposed to be set to 1.00V. You have to elongate the holes, and turn it until it's 1v.

The three wires are 5v, signal,and ground. 16% seems low. 1v on a 5v system is 20%
Get a meter and measure it. that's going to be right.
 
There are two PIDs for throttle position. Absolute and relative.

Absolute is the one you are describing. It's a percentage conversion of the raw voltage. Nominal is .95-1V at idle and more than 4.5V at WOT - so typical ranges for our 5V sensor would be 19% to 90%.

TP relative scales from 0% at idle to 100% at WOT based on the observed min and max TP voltages.
 
According to the newedge Mustang FB group it is legit and came out in the last few days. People there are questioning the flow compared to the OEM PI intake. It seems the company that makes it is Chinese. In the past they have been caught counterfeiting other speed shops parts.

Hopefully someone gets it tested soon and it has comparable performance to the PI. Either way it is all aluminum and a good price.

Probably be buying one as well as soon as I see some more feedback on it
 
If it’s a counterfeit of a product no longer manufactured my patriotic ethics go right out the window.

FWIW people questioned the flow of the professional products intakes too, the attitute them was it had some rough casting flash in places the plastic PI intake(obviously) doesn’t, but it would be very simple to smooth out
 
I bought a vice in 99 or so for work; as I was bolting it to the workbench, it fell off, landed on the wood floor, and shattered into a billion pieces. The company owner walked in as I cleaned it up, and asked WTF? We looked it over, it was cast iron. one of theMech E's said they left too much carbon in it. They made it with recycled steel, and there were inclusions of hardened steel.
 
Any tips on how to get this son of a bitch out? Been fighting it for the last half hour without any positive results. BFH isn't working. UCA to knuckle is disconnected. Using floor jack to lift arm doesn't seem to help either.

Driver side is already done.

1000001284.jpg
 
Is the bolt able to spin? I ran into that with my Tbird. I recall I used an air hammer on it after soaking it in PB blaster, that got it to come out.

It is usually a problem that rust belt cars have. Surprised it's giving you trouble
 
Next stupid question:

What are the slide pin bolts on non-sport calipers? They're not 11m or whatever they are on my Pearl Bird. One has a rubber boot and I'm unsure if that is supposed to come off or not. The other seems to be a hex bolt?
 
XR7-4.6 said:
If it’s a counterfeit of a product no longer manufactured my patriotic ethics go right out the window.

FWIW people questioned the flow of the professional products intakes too, the attitute them was it had some rough casting flash in places the plastic PI intake(obviously) doesn’t, but it would be very simple to smooth out
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I always heard the Typhoon did not flow as well as the stock PI intake, but I never saw actual numbers. The casting looks identical to the Professional Products part. Frankly, Professional Products just knocks off a lot of other aftermarket intakes (thinking Edelbrock, Weiand), and all of their junk is made in China so if somebody is knocking off their stuff and making it in China it is an even trade. I do know the all aluminum version is a bit heavier than the plastic intake.
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Next stupid question:

What are the slide pin bolts on non-sport calipers? They're not 11m or whatever they are on my Pearl Bird. One has a rubber boot and I'm unsure if that is supposed to come off or not. The other seems to be a hex bolt?
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Bolt one is that way to change pads, other side doesn't really come out. (I've never pulled it.)
BOTH Pins have a boot. Grease the pins with hi-temp grease. The stuff I have is blue, from advanced. They have the pin covers too.
Boot goes on the bracket. pin slides in hole. My bolts are 11 or 12mm, iirc.
 
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CDsDontBurn said:
Next stupid question:

What are the slide pin bolts on non-sport calipers? They're not 11m or whatever they are on my Pearl Bird. One has a rubber boot and I'm unsure if that is supposed to come off or not. The other seems to be a hex bolt?
Click to expand...

Grog6 said:
Bolt one is that way to change pads, other side doesn't really come out. (I've never pulled it.)
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I figured it out.

It's just the hex bolt that you remove. The one with the boot IS the slide pin. So when you remove the bolt, the caliper just pivots on that pin, and if you need to remove the caliper for whatever reason, you pull (push?) the caliper towards the engine and it'll slide out.

It's a pretty awesome design, TBH, but I'd never seen this before today.
 
Next stupid question:

How do I crack the WP pulley bolts free?

I purposely did not remove the serpentine belt to ensure I have enough tension on the pulley to prevent this exact thing from happening.

What is the solution for this?

1000001285.jpg
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Next stupid question:

How do I crack the WP pulley bolts free?

I purposely did not remove the serpentine belt to ensure I have enough tension on the pulley to prevent this exact thing from happening.

What is the solution for this?

View attachment 13722
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2 wrenches. Each on opposite bolts. One right and one left.
 
Next question:

Where's the easiest place to release fuel pressure from?

Zep5.0 said:
2 wrenches. Each on opposite bolts. One right and one left.
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This is exactly what I did, lol

Belt was absolutely done.

1000001287.jpg
 
You can also whack the fuel cutoff switch in the trunk to trip it, then try to turn the car over to get rid of the excess fuel pressure without it squirting at you. :)
 
theterminator93 said:
You can also whack the fuel cutoff switch in the trunk to trip it, then try to turn the car over to get rid of the excess fuel pressure without it squirting at you. :)
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You don't even have to whack it. A paper clip, quarter inch 90° bend at one end, stick it into the slot on the side of the switch and turn. Voilà, it pops. That's what I did before changing my fuel filter.
 
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