The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

You can also whack the fuel cutoff switch in the trunk to trip it, then try to turn the car over to get rid of the excess fuel pressure without it squirting at you. :)

Already working on the car, just use that mist of solvent as a bonus opportunity to clean your hands :irocz:
 
Well, guess I have to just get sprayed all over with fuel then because I've already removed the WP and alternator 😂
 
Well, guess I have to just get sprayed all over with fuel then because I've already removed the WP and alternator 😂

It’ll run for like 10-20 seconds max without fuel pressure, you don’t need to worry about draining the battery or overheating briefly running without a belt
 
Any tips on how to get this son of a bitch out? Been fighting it for the last half hour without any positive results. BFH isn't working. UCA to knuckle is disconnected. Using floor jack to lift arm doesn't seem to help either.

Driver side is already done.

The bfh was created for suspension work.:)
On the fuel pressure thing; I've always used a small screwdriver on the schrader valve on the fuel rail wrapping it in a rag cuts the spray.
 
Last edited:
I'm going to look at a PI intake tomorrow is there anything I should look for?
Yes. Check the coolant outlet nipple in the back to make sure it isn’t cracked. Also check under the coolant crossover to make sure the grooves for the O-rings that seal the crossover to the manifold aren’t cracking. And obviously make sure it is a real PI manifold. If it has O-rings where it seals to the heads, then it is an aftermarket one, and not worth swapping.
 
I'm going to look at a PI intake tomorrow is there anything I should look for?

Check for cracks anywhere that it mates to the heads. I bought one from eBay years ago and all the bolt holes were cracked from being over torqued.

If it leaks from the coolant cross over area, remove the coolant cross over and apply liberal amounts of RTC black in conjunction with the gasket. It's what I had to do to mine since that gasket was no longer made.

Will you be getting the nipple and coolant tube with it as well?
 
Check for cracks anywhere that it mates to the heads. I bought one from eBay years ago and all the bolt holes were cracked from being over torqued.

If it leaks from the coolant cross over area, remove the coolant cross over and apply liberal amounts of RTC black in conjunction with the gasket. It's what I had to do to mine since that gasket was no longer made.

Will you be getting the nipple and coolant tube with it as well?
It looks like it
1000004012.jpg
That's the picture.
 
It looks like it
View attachment 13736
That's the picture.

Definitely a PI. Looks to be in good shape.

The aftermarket ones look like this. Notice how the intake runners don't "overlap" with each other. Also, yours will require new intake manifold gaskets whereas mine already has O-Rings built into it at the bottom of it and won't require gaskets.

1000000819.jpg

1000000820.jpg

1000000821.jpg
 
Definitely a PI. Looks to be in good shape.

The aftermarket ones look like this. Notice how the intake runners don't "overlap" with each other. Also, yours will require new intake manifold gaskets whereas mine already has O-Rings built into it at the bottom of it and won't require gaskets.
So looking at that one is there something you think I should look for specifically?
 
So looking at that one is there something you think I should look for specifically?

Like I said, make sure there's no cracks or breaks anywhere, specifically at the bolt holes to the head (there doesn't appear to be any in the picture, but better safe than sorry). Check for cracks at the coolant cross over pipe.
 
I looked up the parts number and it said it will not fit the thunderbird, is there any truth to that?
 
I looked up the parts number and it said it will not fit the thunderbird, is there any truth to that?

It's mostly true the PI intake is not a bolt on mod. It requires some custom work to fit, but isn't too difficult. Mostly the heater hose setup needs changing, and the intake ports don't line up with non PI heads

Also IMO it's not going to improve performance much, unless the car has supporting mods like transmission work to raise the shift points
 
I looked up the parts number and it said it will not fit the thunderbird, is there any truth to that?
That intake never shipped on an mn12, so yeah, it doesn't fit.
However, by use of a couple of dabs of rtv, it can be Adapted to fit.
A lot of shit for these needs adaptation these days. :)
 
2 wrenches. Each on opposite bolts. One right and one left.
I stick a screwdriver between two bolt heads while I break tem loose 1 at a time. It takes practice but a flat blade catches the Bolt head pretty good.
 
Like I said, make sure there's no cracks or breaks anywhere, specifically at the bolt holes to the head (there doesn't appear to be any in the picture, but better safe than sorry). Check for cracks at the coolant cross over pipe.
Like this!
 

Attachments

  • 20250607_113519.jpg
    20250607_113519.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 12
Perusing the shop manual regarding front brake rotor installation...

It says the caliper is held to the spindle using two bolts. Then is says to use two  new bolts to re-install. Why new bolts? Is that really necessary?

I had this idea that I wanted to thoroughly clean my brakes, and I could do so best by removing the rotors.
 
Then is says to use two  new bolts to re-install. Why new bolts? Is that really necessary?

One theory is that the original bolts had loctite pre-applied but id imagine they are long obsolete.

Cleaning the threads / bolts and re-applying loctite is the best method for re-use.
 
Any tips on how to avoid making a mess on the K-Member during oil change times?
 
I just wipe it clean with a rag. Then wipe everything else down with the oily rag.
When the barrel of oily rags gets full, I take them to the commercial laundromat, and wash them in the big machine for rugs with a bunch of soap. :)
 
There's a pour lip at the front of the k-member, just for that oil.
 

Similar threads

Back
Top