1997ThunderbirdLXV6
Seasoned PostWhore

hacks![]()
We had that argument before. That connector doesn't pop off as easily as that clip suggests.
hacks![]()
We had that argument before. That connector doesn't pop off as easily as that clip suggests.
But does it relieve the pressure in the fuel system?
Yes, you need to let it run after it’s unplugged or smacked and it’ll quickly run out of fuel in the line/rails(no pressure)But does it relieve the pressure in the fuel system?
You can also whack the fuel cutoff switch in the trunk to trip it, then try to turn the car over to get rid of the excess fuel pressure without it squirting at you.![]()
Well, guess I have to just get sprayed all over with fuel then because I've already removed the WP and alternator![]()
On the fuel pressure thing; I've always used a small screwdriver on the schrader valve on the fuel rail wrapping it in a rag cuts the spray.Any tips on how to get this son of a bitch out? Been fighting it for the last half hour without any positive results. BFH isn't working. UCA to knuckle is disconnected. Using floor jack to lift arm doesn't seem to help either.
Driver side is already done.
The bfh was created for suspension work.![]()
Yes. Check the coolant outlet nipple in the back to make sure it isn’t cracked. Also check under the coolant crossover to make sure the grooves for the O-rings that seal the crossover to the manifold aren’t cracking. And obviously make sure it is a real PI manifold. If it has O-rings where it seals to the heads, then it is an aftermarket one, and not worth swapping.I'm going to look at a PI intake tomorrow is there anything I should look for?
I'm going to look at a PI intake tomorrow is there anything I should look for?
It looks like itCheck for cracks anywhere that it mates to the heads. I bought one from eBay years ago and all the bolt holes were cracked from being over torqued.
If it leaks from the coolant cross over area, remove the coolant cross over and apply liberal amounts of RTC black in conjunction with the gasket. It's what I had to do to mine since that gasket was no longer made.
Will you be getting the nipple and coolant tube with it as well?
So looking at that one is there something you think I should look for specifically?Definitely a PI. Looks to be in good shape.
The aftermarket ones look like this. Notice how the intake runners don't "overlap" with each other. Also, yours will require new intake manifold gaskets whereas mine already has O-Rings built into it at the bottom of it and won't require gaskets.
So looking at that one is there something you think I should look for specifically?
I looked up the parts number and it said it will not fit the thunderbird, is there any truth to that?
That intake never shipped on an mn12, so yeah, it doesn't fit.I looked up the parts number and it said it will not fit the thunderbird, is there any truth to that?
I stick a screwdriver between two bolt heads while I break tem loose 1 at a time. It takes practice but a flat blade catches the Bolt head pretty good.2 wrenches. Each on opposite bolts. One right and one left.
Like this!Like I said, make sure there's no cracks or breaks anywhere, specifically at the bolt holes to the head (there doesn't appear to be any in the picture, but better safe than sorry). Check for cracks at the coolant cross over pipe.
Then is says to use two new bolts to re-install. Why new bolts? Is that really necessary?
Like this!
Any tips on how to avoid making a mess on the K-Member during oil change times?
I think covering the K-member with aluminum foil is pretty standard. On the other hand, some limited oil spillage seems to slow down corrosion (?).