The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

That's Lonnie Doll's site.
The charcoal canister and solenoid are likely laying in the nose, lol. All 3 of mine were.
If you fix the ones under the hood, the code will go away.
 
Stupid question about gas mileage...

If I drove 200 miles on slightly less than 3/4 of a tank (needle almost at 1/4), would that be 16 miles per gallon or 14? I am not sure if we calculate with an 18 gallon tank or only 16 gallons. 2 gallons for emergency when it says "empty".

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We should meet up one day! I'm out in RivCo!

Not a bad idea, though that's a hell of a drive, hahaaha. Any other SoCal types around here?

Pretty straight forward. You'll need some black RTV to seal up the oval intake port in the wiper cowel (sp?) area. Unless there's another way to do it better / easier / faster, you'll have to remove the wiper arms and cowel (sp?) to get access to the oval intake ports under the cowel to apply the RTV.

If it needs to be repaired, you'll notice that there is a crack around the oval intake port.

I'd take pictures of mine (because both of mine need this done) but it'll have to wait as I'm not home.

Cool, thanks.
 
You got the odometer reading backwards but thats just a negative sign, the absolute value of the number is correct
LOL.... I did it right the first time, copied the page and pasted it in the post. It did not show up correctly, so I did it again (in a hurry) and was not paying attention to the stats. Funny that the mpg came out the same! Thanks for the correction Jae Bird.
 
Not a bad idea, though that's a hell of a drive, hahaaha. Any other SoCal types around here?

Then where in LA County are you at? Is it actually City of Los Angeles or somewhere in the County? We can always meet up in the middle somewhere.

Not sure who else is around from SoCal. @dDUBb is from NorCal though. I've met him once before.
 
Then where in LA County are you at? Is it actually City of Los Angeles or somewhere in the County? We can always meet up in the middle somewhere.

Not sure who else is around from SoCal. @dDUBb is from NorCal though. I've met him once before.

I'm in the glorious San Fernando Valley Of The Kings. Ever since that Blue Murder album I have to say it that way, hahaahaha.

 
Is adding 4v heads to an 2v (PI or NPI) block something that can be (justifiably) done? If so, which 2v block would be the better block to use and why?

Asking because this popped up, is ~10min from me, and it sparked the question.

 
Is adding 4v heads to an 2v (PI or NPI) block something that can be (justifiably) done? If so, which 2v block would be the better block to use and why?

Asking because this popped up, is ~10min from me, and it sparked the question.


Not justifiably. The heads and aluminum valve covers and aluminum intake all add a considerable amount of weight that the aluminum block offsets. Plus you’d need to source the timing cover, water crossover, fuel rails, intake manifold, etc etc. If you choose this path find a complete engine.

Plus B heads are basically scrap metal, I mean literally, I have a pair of perfectly good later ones from a Cobra I’ve been too lazy to bring to the recycler. I only bought them for the cams and that was still less than what that seller is asking. Guaranteed the seller bought a Mark engine purely for the Teksid block and is selling the scraps to offset the cost of it… he’s keeping the good part 😆
 
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Agree totally. Best available intake for a 2v is going to be a pi intake swap, and adding pi cams to your engine is a significant improvement. an '02 mustang maf, true duals, and a tune.
Swapping to a 4v THAT FITS, is Matt's swap. Matt's original setup was 2v, so he has direct knowledge on both, pretty well documented. :) Disclaimer, I was kneedeep in a 4v swap when I realized my fuckup. With the b-head t eksid on t he stand, I bought an 04 towncar motor and put it in the red car. My 4v project now involves the c-heads, and mach intake, Which Todd suggested, and Matt made real,before I even finished the intake. :)
His additions recently are really the peak you can go to without $10k worth of head work to add bigger cams, or a blower. I'd be incredibly happy with that car. It's just a damn shame that we could not order that car. You could get it in a mustang, but we aren't those guys.
A rework of the k-member, and the b 4v fits, manual should have been an option.
 
Question for y'all that have done the Cobra brake swap and have 17" wheels: How much clearance is there? Any chance a 16 will clear?
 
If you choose this path find a complete engine.

Dully noted. Would any 4v engine be a direct fit in the engine bay, or am I looking for a specific engine from a specific vehicle that will fit without having to make height adjustments anywhere for the hood to properly close?

Like there's reh MK-VIII engine, Cobra engine, Aviator engine, etc. what would be the best engine to fit in the engine bay?

Plus 4v heads on a 2v block will drop the compression way down around 8:1.

Soooo...... I'm hearing high levels of boost here with a proper rotating assembly? 🤔
 
Question for y'all that have done the Cobra brake swap and have 17" wheels: How much clearance is there? Any chance a 16 will clear?
Here's a photo from 8 years ago, but the answer is enough. Which means 16" will be extremely tight and there's no guarantee it will clear.

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Dully noted. Would any 4v engine be a direct fit in the engine bay, or am I looking for a specific engine from a specific vehicle that will fit without having to make height adjustments anywhere for the hood to properly close?

Like there's reh MK-VIII engine, Cobra engine, Aviator engine, etc. what would be the best engine to fit in the engine bay?

They’ll all fit in the engine bay but they’ll all pose challenges, but 93-96 Mark VIII would fit the best since the intake manifold is low profile. Second best fitting is gen II Mark or 99/01 Cobra or Mach 1 which fits…ish if you shim the k member down on spacers. Worse is 96-98 Cobra, Terminator Cobras or Aviator as all their intakes at a minimum would need a cowl hood

However dollar for dollar; PI 2V > Mark VIII 4V. The real world power difference between the two is negligible stock and if you want to make more power the 4V will cost twice as much to do it naturally aspirated.


Soooo...... I'm hearing high levels of boost here with a proper rotating assembly? 🤔

If you’re going to run boost you could just cram more boost through the smaller 2V head ports using the same logic. 😛
 
Here's a photo from 8 years ago, but the answer is enough. Which means 16" will be extremely tight and there's no guarantee it will clear.

View attachment 16088

The high point of the calipers are the finned areas on the back of them. I have heard of someone who machined them off off for this purpose but I wouldn’t
 
The high point of the calipers are the finned areas on the back of them. I have heard of someone who machined them off off for this purpose but I wouldn’t
One of the remanufactured calipers I got from RockAuto and immediately returned years ago had that done to it for that purpose. Not only was the top front edge rounded off, but so were the fins. It looked like a bar of used soap and never should have been put back up for sale.
 
I won't be ruining them. I bought them looking to the hubswap, I also bought one cobra rear disk. :)
I'll hold onto them for now.
I'll get some I can use this spring. My next purchase needs to be a battery.
 
Any thoughts on the key fob not working? I’ve replaced batteries. I’ve have not tried my 2nd fob yet, will do that tonight after work.
 

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