The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

For a lower viscosity fluid, the orifice size would change on all of the solenoids, the EPC valve would change,valvebody, everything. It's literally a new case. Those trans do not swap with ours, IDK what plate changes there were, but they would not work for us. Our 4r70 needs a plate that releases cleanly with no chattering, and then has fast lockup when the clutch closes. The apparently, direct is also held closed with pressure; that going away from the scarf cut seals smokes a transmission before you can move your foot. :)
 
Grog6 said:
It's a completely different fluid, and will not grab like Merc V does.
It will toast either a 4r70 or 4r75, but works in CVT transmissions. :)
If you put it in our cars, you will be walking home from the first stopsign, lol.
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MerconLV is not CVT fluid. CVT fluid is its own thing, that is entirely different from any automatic transmission fluid.
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
...why not ask AI:

View attachment 17611

Though I'm not sure how these changes relate to the fluid switch.
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They don’t. MerconLV is a much lower viscosity fluid than MercIII or V. The change was likely done for fuel mileage ratings and nothing else. The 4r70s of that era went 300k miles no problem with the MercV, so they probably did some testing and determined that the thinner fluid would reduce pumping losses, and would not cause a failure within the warranty period.
 
To Mike's point, Ford did also change the oil weight recommendation for the 4.6s from 5W30 to 5W20, purely to squeeze out as much in MPG ratings as they could.

I remember asking Darrin about Mercon LV in the trans he built for me. Told me to stick to Merc V. That was good enough for me. I still use 5W30 too. :)
 
Are these the parts needed for the PI intake and heater hose rerouting?

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We were talking about this earlier:
XR7-4.6 said:
At the height of the who has the fastest SC arms race it definitely happened to a few cars. If you’re going for consistent quarter mile ETs you cannot beat an automatic, plus the IRS copes substantially better from a launch on drag radials with a high stall converter automatic in front of it than it does a manual with a 5000rpm clutch dump.

There actually was a time the predominating club culture kind of considered 4R70w to manual swaps sacrilege, certain people took the notion like it was a personal betrayal to Jerry W. 😆
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The mods to sc's was the reason for the split from sccoa, from what I heard over the years. About that time the lincoln purists made LOD. I wasn't an mn12 owner 'till '99.
 
I know that Rockauto sells (or at least used to sell) the plastic rings that hold the headlight bulb in place (to the headlight). However I can't find them anymore. Anyone remember the name or item code for them?
 
SnowyOwl said:
I know that Rockauto sells (or at least used to sell) the plastic rings that hold the headlight bulb in place (to the headlight). However I can't find them anymore. Anyone remember the name or item code for them?
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You mean this?

1997 FORD THUNDERBIRD 4.6L V8 Headlamp Bulb Retainer / Clip | Shop Now at RockAuto

Electrical-Bulb & Socket Parts and More for Your 1997 FORD THUNDERBIRD at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.
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Ok, here's a new stupid question:

I keep reading not to worry about head gaskets unless the car actually overheated.

My car consistently runs, per my OBD2 app, at 199°-212°F. Occasionally, I may see 215°F for a short moment in stop and go traffic, and I once saw 218°F during 70 mph uphill cruising.

All that sounds normal I'm guessing (?). But my question is: would it be healthier to have a slightly lower thermostat, resulting in consistently lower temperatures, say 10° less?
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
Ok, here's a new stupid question:

I keep reading not to worry about head gaskets unless the car actually overheated.

My car consistently runs, per my OBD2 app, at 199°-212°F. Occasionally, I may see 215°F for a short moment in stop and go traffic, and I once saw 218°F during 70 mph uphill cruising.

All that sounds normal I'm guessing (?). But my question is: would it be healthier to have a slightly lower thermostat, resulting in consistently lower temperatures, say 10° less?
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Likelihood is your thermostat is lower than that, but you're at the max ability of the cooling system. As long as your fans working correctly it should be fine. Have you recently done a coolant flush? You could always do that and add some water wetter.
 
IMG_1904.JPG
Gemini_Generated_Image_knomypknomypknom.png
ok, does this look dumb? top is actual base image and lower is Gemini removing the molding like I have considered, Sora could never do it right. I have a feeling that the consensus is that this looks dumb.
 
I dont think anyone would notice. Seems fine either way
 
The temperature your car runs at is set in the tune by the fan activation points set there.
The numbers you quote are normal for a stock thermostat.
I run a 180 thermostat, but I changed the tune.
A bunch of us bought the SCT Pro Racer Package (PRP) so we can tune our cars.
Note the next time you hit a drivethru; the temp will rise until the fan comes on, then drop until the fan goes off. All set points in the tune have to be changed, both on and off.
If you put a 180 thermostat in, it will be fully open forever.
 
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1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
Ok, here's a new stupid question:

I keep reading not to worry about head gaskets unless the car actually overheated.

My car consistently runs, per my OBD2 app, at 199°-212°F. Occasionally, I may see 215°F for a short moment in stop and go traffic, and I once saw 218°F during 70 mph uphill cruising.

All that sounds normal I'm guessing (?). But my question is: would it be healthier to have a slightly lower thermostat, resulting in consistently lower temperatures, say 10° less?
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None of that is a concern. Dropping the thermostat temp won’t really help unless the fan speed is also dropped, which would have to be done with a tune. But if all of this is to preserve your head gaskets, don’t worry about it. That was a problem with the early 3.8s, but heads were revised for 96, and the 96+ cars pretty much never blow head gaskets.
 
Jae 'Bird said:
ok, does this look dumb? top is actual base image and lower is Gemini removing the molding like I have considered, Sora could never do it right. I have a feeling that the consensus is that this looks dumb.
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I prefer the moulding on your car. If you painted the trim on the bumpers body color, then I would remove the trim. I think it being removed that's away from the overall theme of the black and chrome trim. That said, it looks fine either way so do what you want. It's your car.

Final point for keeping it .. There are fewer and fewer cars with it..
 
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Now I gotta figure out how to reglue the small spot that's pulling up, i tried some adhesive but it didnt hold at all, now that you say that I will prob keep it.

Zep5.0 said:
I prefer the moulding on your car. If you painted the trim on the bumpers body come, then I would remove the trim. I think it being removed that's away from the overall them of the black and chrome trim. That said, it looks fine either way so do what you want. It's your car.

Final point for keeping it .. There are fewer and fewer cars with it..
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How much hassle would we get on covering the degrading 'chrome stripe with 3m reflective tape? car would glow like a cop car, lol.
 
Yeah, my niece had a 92 bird, and it looked skinny. I'd have bought it when she traded it if it'd been a v8.
Another stupid question: to get a good paint job, I have to unbolt all the molding. and paint it separately, right?
 
XR7-4.6 said:
I really don’t like how these cars look without the side moldings, they look unfinished.
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Arguably the only model years it works decently for is '94-95 because there isn't as distinct of a line to visually trace from the bumpers for continuity. Do it on any other model year and it doesn't look so great.

I don't recall if anyone ever followed through with removing them on a '96-97, but that would look stupid.
 
Irv said:
Arguably the only model years it works decently for is '94-95 because there isn't as distinct of a line to visually trace from the bumpers for continuity. Do it on any other model year and it doesn't look so great.

I don't recall if anyone ever followed through with removing them on a '96-97, but that would look stupid.
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I’m much happier with the cladding removed from my 97. Yes, it would be nice to have 94/95 bumpers, but removing the cladding is definitely an improvement in my mind, even with the stock bumpers. IMG_4117.jpegIMG_4115.jpeg
 
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