Thinking about getting this 97

When I replaced my water pump with the new style and the radiator it made a tremendous difference in the engine temp, in a good way. Adding the trans cooler, removed the radiator, didn’t make any difference in engine temp but significantly improved trans temps,
 
Kidd-7 said:
When I replaced my water pump with the new style and the radiator it made a tremendous difference in the engine temp, in a good way. Adding the trans cooler, removed the radiator, didn’t make any difference in engine temp but significantly improved trans temps,
Click to expand...

Good to know about engine temps!

Today's temp reached 224F on the drive home. 96F ambient temperature on that same incline I mentioned last time. Shortly after passing the crest, temps dropped down to 215F. I'm really looking forward to seeing the new engine temps with the updated cooling components.

View attachment 1000001250.png
 
230F today on that same stretch and 98F ambient temperature.

Friday I do all the work to it and I'll be able to find out how jt does on Monday's drive home.

1000001262.png
 
Do you have an option for low speed fan flag and/or high speed fan flag? If so you can at least verify when the PCM is commanding the fan to come on.
 
How are the fins on the A/C condenser and radiator? I wouldn't think they're all beat up as our cars didn't have big gaping grills allowing debris to bend them up, but bent fins cause havoc on cooling.

I'd flush the engine and rad with water, if possible. Then replace the WP.
 
Maybe the coolant temp sensor is acting up? That seems way hotter than a 4.6 in these cars should get. Been driving mine around with the stock radiator, and when warmed up it's always in the same spot on the gauge regardless of how hot it is outside. I replaced the temp sensor in mine when I did the PI intake and newer style water pump. But even with the original parts it was cooling just the same. Do you have an IR thermometer to check the underhood temps?
 
Zep5.0 said:
How are the fins on the A/C condenser and radiator? I wouldn't think they're all beat up as our cars didn't have big gaping grills allowing debris to bend them up, but bent fins cause havoc on cooling.

I'd flush the engine and rad with water, if possible. Then replace the WP.
Click to expand...

They can also get caked up with loads of grime and dirt. Maybe worth looking into cleaning them off with detergent and water pressure.
 
theterminator93 said:
Do you have an option for low speed fan flag and/or high speed fan flag? If so you can at least verify when the PCM is commanding the fan to come on.
Click to expand...

It's Torque Pro. It might have that, not sure. I'd have to dig in deeper to find out.

Zep5.0 said:
How are the fins on the A/C condenser and radiator? I wouldn't think they're all beat up as our cars didn't have big gaping grills allowing debris to bend them up, but bent fins cause havoc on cooling.

I'd flush the engine and rad with water, if possible. Then replace the WP.
Click to expand...

No idea. I'll find out on Friday.

Kenz said:
Maybe the coolant temp sensor is acting up? That seems way hotter than a 4.6 in these cars should get. Been driving mine around with the stock radiator, and when warmed up it's always in the same spot on the gauge regardless of how hot it is outside. I replaced the temp sensor in mine when I did the PI intake and newer style water pump. But even with the original parts it was cooling just the same. Do you have an IR thermometer to check the underhood temps?
Click to expand...

I don't think so, TBH. The temperature does go down back to 217 - 221 range after this hill climb. Before the hill climb temp sits at 212-ish.

XR7-4.6 said:
theterminator93 said:
They can also get caked up with loads of grime and dirt. Maybe worth looking into cleaning them off with detergent and water pressure.
Click to expand...
I strongly endorse this stuff. Pull the blower and spray it on the evaporator coils too.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestions guys! I'll pick up a bottle of this stuff tomorrow tomorrow and apply where necessary on Friday.

I used to have a bottle of NuCalgon / NuBrite and it worked great.
 
In torque there is a setting to unlock Ford PIDs, but I don’t remember seeing the fan in there.
 
Just got to work and logged my morning trip for the first time. Temps stayed at a reasonable temperature throughout the trip. Max temperature reached was 212 and that was when I got off the freeway.

1000001266.png
 
Jonathan:
If you are really worried about radiator temps (and 5+ posts about it sounds like you are), one quick fix is to reroute one of your windshield misters to a new mister nozzle mounted in front of the radiator. When you hit that uphill stretch, spray away and watch your temps drop 15-25F (what I saw when racing).

It was an idea I found years ago from some RV website. It hardly ever rains where you live anyway. :)
 
@gunn

It's not that I'm worried, it's more that I'm monitoring and announcing (posting) about my monitoring of my engine temps.

I haven't done anything to the car except swap my sport wheels and get new tires. All the maintenance items revolving around cooling and intake manifold will be done tomorrow.

For all I know the coolant in there is original to the car. Getting new coolant in there alone ought to make a world of difference. But with a new thermostat and closed vane water pump, I'd imagine it would also be a big help as well.

Your mod idea is great! The question with it is related to the windshield wipers. I'd have to make it so that the pump sprays the radiator and the wipers don't "swish" my windshield, but still have the ability for me to turn them on for the 3 - 4 times a year it does rain.
 
CDsDontBurn said:
@gunn

It's not that I'm worried, it's more that I'm monitoring and announcing (posting) about my monitoring of my engine temps.

I haven't done anything to the car except swap my sport wheels and get new tires. All the maintenance items revolving around cooling and intake manifold will be done tomorrow.

For all I know the coolant in there is original to the car. Getting new coolant in there alone ought to make a world of difference. But with a new thermostat and closed vane water pump, I'd imagine it would also be a big help as well.

Your mod idea is great! The question with it is related to the windshield wipers. I'd have to make it so that the pump sprays the radiator and the wipers don't "swish" my windshield, but still have the ability for me to turn them on for the 3 - 4 times a year it does rain.
Click to expand...
Who cares if it swishes? If you branch off from the mister, you can clean your (likely dusty) windows at the same time you spray the radiator.
 
gunn said:
Who cares if it swishes? If you branch off from the mister, you can clean your (likely dusty) windows at the same time you spray the radiator.
Click to expand...
Me 😅

Honestly, it's an OCD thing of mine where my windshield has to be "uniform" in how dirty or clean it is. Like, I never run my wiper blades unless I absolutely have to (like for rain), and as soon as I don't have to, I will clean my windshield.
 
239F engine temp reached today on that hill-climb. Temps remained at 233F +/- 3F thereafter for the remainder of my trip home. 103F ambient temp.

1000001271.png

This is what it looks like on the cluster. Temps was 235F when I took this picture.

1000001272.jpg
 
Plumb in a mister, homie. Even that shit analog gauge is making me nervous.:)


PS..second idea for a bandaid....drain the coolant and for now, run distilled water. Nothing is going to freeze for a while where you live and that water has higher heat capacity than antifreeze. Add water wetter is another bandaid.
 
gunn said:
Plumb in a mister, homie. Even that shit analog gauge is making me nervous.:)


PS..second idea for a bandaid....drain the coolant and for now, run distilled water. Nothing is going to freeze for a while where you live and that water has higher heat capacity than antifreeze. Add water wetter is another bandaid.
Click to expand...
I'm doing all that tomorrow. All parts are in now. Fresh coolant will be in. For all I know, the existing coolant is original to the car.

1000001264.jpg

I have upper and lower radiator hoses, closed vane water pump, FoMoCo thermostat, new tensioner, new serpentine belt, new intake manifold (updated design with aluminum crossover instead of plastic), coolant, new spark plugs, new pads and rotors, new brake fluid, new oil and filter, new air filter

1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
Are you seeing transmission temperature, too? I'd be curious to see that.
Click to expand...

I haven't been monitoring transmission temps. I'll see if it's on Torque Pro and add it to my monitoring screen.
 
Serpentine belt seems to indeed be original to the car. I can't imagine what other rubber bits are.

1000001273.jpg
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Serpentine belt seems to indeed be original to the car. I can't imagine what other rubber bits are.

View attachment 13697
Click to expand...
Consider replacing any/all vacuum lines. Just like that upper radiator hose, im sure they are too old for Trump/Epstein and probably too old for DiCaprio as well.

Best line I read about Leonardo the other day: his movie Titanic came out before his current GF was born.
 
Grog6 said:
I've heated up a trans so hot, it boiled the coolant out while parked afterwards. It was still too hot to touch the next afternoon, as I swapped it. I wore thick gloves to get it out.
Click to expand...

Along with that theory, we don't know if the O/D OFF light bulb is any good; no way to test due to bad button. So if the transmission overheats, the light may not be able to blink.

The app I use, OBD Fusion, reads transmission temperature, but it was tedious to set up. I'm not familiar with the Torque app.
 
Torque will read trans temp, there are 2 PIDs available, only a few degrees difference. You do need to go into settings and select FORD PIDs.
 
As a mass air system (not speed-density), our CDAN4 PCMs don't have a functioning PID for manifold vacuum.

Some programs may extrapolate this value based on TP, RPM and load data.
 
theterminator93 said:
As a mass air system (not speed-density), our CDAN4 PCMs don't have a functioning PID for manifold vacuum.

Some programs may extrapolate this value based on TP, RPM and load data.
Click to expand...

Ah...
The built-in SAE PID gives no value at all. I guess your info explains that.

There's an option for "Calculated PID". That one does provide values; however they vary so widely that I'm questioning them: as low as 4 in/Hg at idle and in the 20s under acceleration. Shouldn't vacuum be highest at idle?

Not trying to hijack the thread. Sorry. I just couldn't help noticing those screen shots above.
 
On my 4.6 cars, Idle vacuum is ~ 18" mercury, iirc.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top