Thinking about getting this 97

Mevotech LCAs arrived yesterday and opened the boxes today. Mevotech is bringing me back to the days of the AC Delco UCAs fiasco with my Pearl Bird 🫠.

I ordered the CMK80053/5 units with the greaseable nipple and instead I got one unit that appears to be the "GK" series of LCA instead.

I was planning on doing this job this weekend, but this is putting a crimp on that plan. Do I just YOLO it and run both mismatched units or do I go for identical units for this issue?

1000001528.jpg

1000001526.jpg

1000001527.jpg
 
Is there a price difference between the 2? I’d still complain and ask for a refund of the difference.
 
Kidd-7 said:
Is there a price difference between the 2? I’d still complain and ask for a refund of the difference.
Click to expand...

Like $6 difference. It's not a vendor (Rock Auto) issue, it's a manufacturer issue at that, for not labeling the product correctly.

So for those reasons, I don't think it's worth the time and energy to pursue a refund or exchange.
 
Have you considered just pressing in new ball joints? It's much faster, and no alignment is required afterwards. In my similar milage Cougar the bushings are still fine.
 
Kenz said:
Have you considered just pressing in new ball joints? It's much faster, and no alignment is required afterwards. In my similar milage Cougar the bushings are still fine.
Click to expand...

The rear to frame bushings are both shot on my LCAs. So even if I decided to press them out, it will still need an alignment and take longer to get the repairs done than just replacing the entire arm.
 
LCAs done. Alignment tomorrow. These shits were toast. The driver side fought me tooth and nail to get done, just like last time when I had it all apart. The passenger side was simple, maybe 20min from start to finish.

Drive side
1000001543.jpg

1000001544.jpg

1000001547.jpg

Passenger side
1000001550.jpg

1000001551.jpg

1000001549.jpg
 
Just got back from a quick test drive, and it drives alright straight. It pulls to the right, but it doesn't pull as bad as I expected it to pull. Guess having marked my alignment bolts beforehand was a genius move, lol.

I only hope that the alignment shop is able to correct my steering wheel because it was at perfect 0° before today. Now, it's about 3° to the left.

1000001552.jpg
 
Got back from the shop not long ago. Steering wheel is clocked at 0° again and the car drives straight.

Going to the shop I drove the car slow and steady, avoiding unnecessary lane changes. On the way back though, I drove it like I stole it. A big difference I've noticed is the lack of clunking....except on two occasions.

Before, the clunking was going over pot holes, bumps, dips, etc. Now, the two occasions where I heard clunking was turning onto my street, there's a pretty big dip and I took it somewhat hard and heard the first clunk. The second time was getting into my driveway where I heard the clunk getting up into my driveway. Any thoughts on what that could be?

1756660492250.png
 
KevinVarnes said:
Sway bar bushings and end links are the #1 cause of steering/suspension clunks that I see on cars. I would assume if there were any loose steering/suspension components then the alignment shop would have found them and told you they couldn't align the car.
Click to expand...

Grog6 said:
I'd bet it's the rear swaybar endlinks.
Click to expand...

The front and rear sway bar bushings will be replaced at the next oil change. So will the rear end links. The sway bar bushings are definitely original to the car as you can see the cracking in them.

The PO already did end links on all 4 corners and the fronts still look solid. The rears however, the bushings are already showing a good bit of cracking in them.

The only other maintenance type item this car needs is to get all the vacuum and EGR hoses replaced.

After that, I won't really have much else to do to this car except get the stereo system updated to something modern and get a keyless entry system installed. This car will be getting the PBR mod done, but it won't be for some time, probably after tax season next year.
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Got back from the shop not long ago. Steering wheel is clocked at 0° again and the car drives straight.
Click to expand...

That's good you found a shop that aligned it right. I have always had bad luck with getting mine done properly.

CDsDontBurn said:
Module for what?
Click to expand...

Grog must have meant check the trunk for the keyless entry module. Perhaps it has the option, and the fobs were lost over the years? Don't see that likely happening but it's possible. You would really luck out if that is the case.
 
Kenz said:
Grog must have meant check the trunk for the keyless entry module. Perhaps it has the option, and the fobs were lost over the years? Don't see that likely happening but it's possible. You would really luck out if that is the case.
Click to expand...

What am I looking for in the trunk? Like, what would it look like and where would it be? My reference car is a bit hard to get to in the trunk area 😂.
 
Pull the carpet back on the driver's side and look for a large black box next to the intertia switch. If there's a small gray connector on its side with 2 contacts in it you have RKEM and can program a remote if you get one.
 
Looks like I don't have RKEM. How does this open (or close) possibilities for me to have keyless entry (and ideally, remote start)?1000001556.jpg

Also, I keep forgetting to get my chin spoiler installed 😅

1000001555.jpg
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Looks like I don't have RKEM. How does this open (or close) possibilities for me to have keyless entry (and ideally, remote start)?View attachment 14291

Also, I keep forgetting to get my chin spoiler installed 😅

View attachment 14292
Click to expand...
I feel like I read someone had seen that shroud could lower temps substantially on the old site. Basically keeps air going into the rad versus around it.
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
Speaking of temperature...did I miss an update? What's the latest?
Click to expand...

Temps have only gone down slightly since the WP, coolant, and new hoses got installed. Temp difference is about 5° cooler than before, 235 vs 240. Not a significant difference.

Heater core isn't blocked as engine temps do go down significantly when the heater is turned on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top