What did you do with your Thunderbird Today?

Thunderstruck95 said:
I would really encourage you to start a dedicated post for your aero mod experiments.

I too would like to play around with ways to measure the gains of these things.

I also like your upper radiator/ header panel cover. when done in aluminum or plastic it could really clean up the under hood area.
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Julian explains in his videos what tool you need to measure the difference in air pressure. Just gotta buy it that special meter. Forgot what it’s called.

And thanks for the tip, I got another project up my sleeve that I’d like to knock out soon, also involving the Radiator air flow. I’ll be sure to make a thread on it.
 
Nothing...........yup, raining again! :zboom:

Joe
 
I ot some more stuff for te battery relocation.Red cougar has a battery hold down now to finish the battery relocation. I think with the top bolted down, the stock base should locate the bottom pretty well. Comments?
 
With the way you already plastic dipped the emblems it would be at least cohesive. What you have done so far looks good, go all the way.

Reminds me of the adage: "If you are going to stick it in, you might as well stick it in all the way."
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
Ok, so for those of us who are not rocker literates, I'm curious what specifically would make a  good design as opposed to this.
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Too many overlapping metal joints and that damn expansion foam. Seams are where rust begins since water can get between where the steetmetal has little coating protection and rot out from the inside. You can see it in effect there, look at the center reinforcement, the bottom lip is comply rotted away even though the main inner and outer rockers(outer= the exterior piece, inner = the interior piece the floorpan is welded to) are actually intact, but inside its rotting away from the bottom up. I often wonder how many "rust free" MN12s from humid/rainy climates look just like that inside.


Look at all the foam splatter down the inside channel too, that stuff if it's not a sponge for moisture it's an obstacle course for moisture to exit the drains
 
Acetone will probably dissolve that foam

Racecougar, if you could cut out a drivers seat position,with the dash frame and all, it would make a hell of a game chair! It would sell for plenty to the right gamer. :)
 
Adjusted my parking brake.

I noticed that it didn't hold the car halfway up my ramps.

Adjustment is actually super easy: there's a clip on the cable below the trunk aft of the differential. Pull the clip down, and the spring tightens the cable automatically.

In my case, I had to loosen it a bit because my initial adjustment was so tight that I could barely get the parking brake pedal past the first click.
 
Changed my oil and filter. 345,144 miles (previous change at 333.610). Don't wory about the interval as i know I've added at least 10 quarts since the last change. Added a few ounces of Marvel Mystry oil a couple days (300 miles) before to dissolve any crud. Appears I have a rear main adding to my oil pan weep. keeps rust away though.
 
I haven't *done* anything with my T-bird, but I am at a point where I'm nearing the beginning of starting to work on my T-bird. That said, I am starting to think about how to do things. Namely, moving her into the garage. I know she'll fire up with some fresh gas and a battery and I can get her into the garage that way. However, the transmission is dry due to the front pump seal being shot and having pissed transmission fluid while just sitting there on the driveway, I know the transmission won't make it passed "P" without further damage to it. Sure, I can add more ATF and get her inside that way, but I don't want to have to deal with draining more (and essentially brand new) ATF than I have to, especially if it was just to move the car, what? 20 feet?

All that said, I feel that the best way to move her would be with some car dolleys like these HF units, but I'm not sure that:

These are $130 for a set of 4​
These are $130/ea​

If these are $130 for 4 of these, I can muster up the cost to buy them. If it's $130/ea, I'd rather build my own, lol. I just need them to move my T-bird those 15 feet. I see that HF also has the lower priced ones at $80 for the pair. If building my own comes out to less than $160, then it'll be worth it just building my own, especially if the cost is below $130, lol.

Anyways, do you guys have any other ideas on how I can get my T-bird into my garage?

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This will sound sketchy but I've done it; if you have a sturdy jack you can put it on the center K member or diff mount to get one end up enough and push the car around on it too.

Keep your feet clear lol
 
XR7-4.6 said:
This will sound sketchy but I've done it; if you have a sturdy jack you can put it on the center K member or diff mount to get one end up enough and push the car around on it too.

Keep your feet clear lol
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Works really well to position a car in a space where you need it to move"sideways"
 
I guess the important question here is, which end do I want to go in first? Trunk in, means transmission work. Front in, means suspension work.
 
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