Back from the shop

It a code on both banks, it popped up a day after I brought her home. I don’t have a snapshot of when it happened. I was data logging when the code was thrown though.
 
Kidd-7 said:
I did the cigar smoke test and no leaks. I did however find a clamp that was way up on a hose so I moved that back in a better position and placed the PCV pipe in the air inlet plumbing a little better, there was obvious oil spray on the pipe. Cleared the codes and we'll see if they come back.
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Cigar? Cigarette? Moxibustion? Charcoal? Old underware soaked in gas, lit and blown out?
 
Drive to work today, no CEL, but LTFT are around -15%. So no fix. I’m going to compare this data to previous data to see if the MAF is different.
 
Back at it. Earlier in the week I cleaned the MAF, comparing the data did look a little different as far a flow rate at RPM and at TPS.
That did not correct it.
I tried a fuel pressure regulator I had on the shelf and drove her today still low trims.
Not sure where to go from here. I need to deal with the coolant leak, but haven’t had time to take her off the road for long enough.
My daughter’s done with school this week so I’m stealing her car and will pull out the overflow tank to inspect it better. I did confirm it’s leaking aground the level sensor, but can’t see in there without removal.
 
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Removed the tank, theres a few cracks in the side just above the level sensor electrical connector. You can see some of the crack in the pic below and the trail of leakage.
IMG_4853.jpg

I cleaned & scuffed the plastic then put a good coat of 2 part plastic epoxy over it; ain't the prettiest fix, but hopefully it holds till I can find a replacement. It appears the only option is junk yard.

IMG_4854.jpg
 
@Chingon1 I appreciate that and will take you up on it. The 2 junk yards nearest me are each an hour away and MN12s hardly show up there anymore. :(

PM sent.
 
Well that didn't hold at all. I installed it today, filled the coolant then pressurized with the loan a tool... It's peeing. :(

I'm assuming there are no other options than used junk yard at this point? In searching I found really nice polished aluminum overflow tanks, but none for our cars.
 
Kidd-7 said:
Well that didn't hold at all. I installed it today, filled the coolant then pressurized with the loan a tool... It's peeing. :(

I'm assuming there are no other options than used junk yard at this point? In searching I found really nice polished aluminum overflow tanks, but none for our cars.
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Does Dorman make one? thats my only thought, or ones from other cars that are the exact same, maybe find the part number and then google it and see what other cars pop up that it says its for.
 
That’s what I found with Google, suck.
 
I ordered one off ford parts giant in '17; I went to order another one a week later, and no more stock. :(
The only way to seal it would be from the inside, because nothing sticks to that plastic.
 
I figured this epoxy would at least not hold for long. I don’t see a good way to seal from the inside. Although as I type I remember as a kid we had a motor home with 3 gas tanks, even at those gas prices most of the time those tanks were empty and developed rust. We found some liquid to line the inside, basically dump it in roll the tank around and let is cure. Maybe there is something like that out there?
 
Flex Seal tape maybe? I heard it sticks good to almost anything. Buddy of mine at the City Transit garage says they use it and you better be sure what you wanna stick it to cause once it's on, it's not coming off without a fight. Might be worth trying... And it's available in clear.
 
I doubt any epoxy or tape or anything will hold because it is under pressure. The only thing that might work is a plastic welder, but I’m not sure what type of plastic that is, so I can’t say whether that is viable or not.
 
Back to fuel trims, I changed the oil today and took a good look at the exhaust finding a bolt broken. Could this be the cause? I don’t heart an exhaust leak and the other bolts are tight.
IMG_4895.jpeg
 
If you're talking about the bolt on the flange that's not broken. The flange is threaded for it.
 
The other 3 bolts have nuts, is this one different and tightens from the top?
 
The code is on both banks .. so one loose exhaust pipe will not affect both. No.
 
That’s what I thought also, is gotta be something common to both banks.
 
I know previously it was stated that the fuel pump would not cause this. I’m comparing current data to 1 year old data; logged via torque app. There is a Ford specific PID named Fuel Tank Pressure(psi)
Last year: 4330
Current: 3922

Obviously that’s not PSI, there’s either a decimal misplaced or the bits are not being converted correctly, but there is a difference in the measured number.

Does anyone know if this is a legit PID from our ECUs?
 
Additionally average combined fuel trims:
Last year ~ -10
Current: ~ -12
 
I was thinking that PID was invalid also.
 
I agree with Terminator. There is no sensor on the engine that would provide that information to the ECM. It sure would be helpful though! I see most/all DI engines that do give the low and high fuel pressure PIDs.

Also, if those numbers were valid, it would seem the pressure and fuel trims would be directly proportional, but the fuel pressures and trims show an inverse proportion. I would expect the trim to be less negative (or more positive as it were) for a lower fuel pressure.
 
OK coming back to this. Root Cause may have been an old battery as crazy as that sounds.
Last week she struggled to start a little heading back to work. Then leaving for the day was even worse, Measured the voltage bellow 11v. Funny thing is she still started. After replacing the battery it’s now been over a week of driving and no CEL; Fuel trims are in the positives now instead of way low. Probably around +15ish.
 
I spoke too soon, that’s seemed odd that the battery would cause this. The CEL came on today. P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1) & it’s mate is pending.
 
MadMikeyL said:
I doubt any epoxy or tape or anything will hold because it is under pressure. The only thing that might work is a plastic welder, but I’m not sure what type of plastic that is, so I can’t say whether that is viable or not.
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These tanks are made of HDPE and heat fusion is the only repair. The way they do natural gas pipe requires a large heating element that melts it and uses pressure to ram together when melted and is very susceptible to failures on pipe. I have ruined my original due to a oem tools adapter for a radiator tester and apparently the threads changed somewhere around '03 or '04 as the adapter works on my '13 edge, '17 f-150 and '17 Jaguar xf but not on tbird or '04 excursion. I settled for a non-sensor '95 bottle but I have a small system leak and this week I checked and found it empty. I luckily found a '97 bottle w/ sensor today and I will be using it. The non-sensor one may be the leak but I believe it is the damn motorad cap.
 
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