- Joined
- Sep 22, 2023
- Messages
- 762
- Location
- Las Vegas
- Vehicle Details
- 1995 Ford Thunderbird LX No Engine No Trans
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Good deal!
No, new sensor didn't take care of the code. The engine definitely idles better than it did before, and the original problem that brought it to my attention seems to be gone. The engine seemed to be almost missing or skipping between 65-70 mph, that issue is gone.@Rodeo Joe , did you fix your code yet?
It really isn't that bad. New synchronizers come with the holding tool. So you take the cam sensor off, hand crank the motor until you can install the tool onto the old synchro. I like to mark the old synchro body and the block with a sharpie. Same as you might when pulling a distributor. Take pictures of everything before you start. Once you know where everything is when you start and have the block and synchro marked and the holding tool installed, you simply pull the synchro out slowly. Take note of the position of the mark when it comes out of the block. It will rotate away from the original mark on the block. Just like a distributor. Then put the holding tool on the new synchro. Make a mark with a sharpie on the new one in the same place as the old one. Then insert it where the old once came out and it should rotate down to the mark on the block. Does that make sense?No, new sensor didn't take care of the code. The engine definitely idles better than it did before, and the original problem that brought it to my attention seems to be gone. The engine seemed to be almost missing or skipping between 65-70 mph, that issue is gone.
I've poked around and plugs could also be an issue, so if the weather cooperates this weekend I'll swap those out. If not, then it looks like it might be time for a new synchronizer and I'm not looking forward to that.
Mikey or Gordon, how difficult is this?
Joe
hand crank the motor
Not hard, I use a socket on the crank pulley bolt with a breaker bar.How hard is that actually? I've been wondering about that on the subject of the torque converter drain plug.
I mark both the synchro body and the block in the same place. That way if you want you can actually practice by removing the old one, then reinserting it just to get the feel for it. By having the marks on it, you'll know if it goes back in where you removed it.Thanks guys! When you mention marking with a sharpie, is it on the synchronizer it self, engine block or something near by?
Video would be great Gordon, no rush!
Joe
You just put a ratchet and socket on the balancer bolt and work it clockwise. With spark plugs in there will be resistance. You can feel the compression, but it's doable. Not a big deal.How hard is that actually? I've been wondering about that on the subject of the torque converter drain plug.
Please don't be that guy.Just picked up a crank sensor. Only hope I'll be able to return the "unused" camshaft sensor later.
I've cleared the code with the scanner,
I've cleared the code with the scanner, so I wasn't sure if I did need to drive it more.
Joe
Ok guys, going to start on this project soon. Mikey, I took some pictures of the new synchronizer and want to see which position of the half moon piece should be.and turn the engine over until the leading edge of the half-moon piece is in the middle of the opening.
X2 Sir, I hope you are having a sunny warm day.Good Luck Joe!