Hit and run

It’s welded on on MN12s, FN10s it’s bolted on. I suspected that might be bent but didn’t want to discourage you when you were really stressing.

The good news is is it essentially did exactly the job it was designed for; absorbing the force of the impact before it transmitted deeper into the structure. Biggest misconception of 5mph bumpers is that they were a safety item like seatbelts, but in actuality they protect the car from more extensive repairs beyond the bumpers(as was more likely on some pre 1973 cars). I’ve heard of people pulling it back out using truck and chain/straps to pull it back in place. Other people don’t repair them at all, nothing on the exterior (minus 89-95 SC fog lights) mount to it so you can cosmetically repair the car to mint without touching it.
 
but didn’t want to discourage you when you were really stressing.

Omg, I was stressing...lol

Other people don’t repair them at all, nothing on the exterior (minus 89-95 SC fog lights) mount to it so you can cosmetically repair the car to mint without touching it.

Hmmmm. Not sure how I feel about that. But good to know my options.

It’s welded on on MN12s

So if a body shop repaired this, wouldn't that be particularly expensive?

Welding work sounds expensive (?).

This part isn't even included in the adjuster's initial estimate. He only included what he "could see".

You can likely loosen the top bolts on the fender and yank that forward with the door open. That will at least get it so you don't ruin the door.

This worked well. Door now opens practically not touching the fender or at least not causing further damage. Truly Piëch level panel gaps!
 
So if a body shop repaired this, wouldn't that be particularly expensive?

Welding work sounds expensive (?).

This part isn't even included in the adjuster's initial estimate. He only included what he "could see".

Yes but they’d need to source a used one since it’s not a produced part anymore. They could probably unbend it too

The welds are just simple spotwelds, they’ll just drill out the old ones and plug weld the “new”one on through the drilled holes with a MIG, not laying stacks of dimes with a tig setup as seen on TV lol
 
You can pull the core support straight with a tree and a come along; Watch the allignment of the hood latch;
if it gets misaligned,it can let go of the hood, and if the hood flies up, it will cause major damage.
 
You can pull the core support straight with a tree and a come along; Watch the allignment of the hood latch;
if it gets misaligned,it can let go of the hood, and if the hood flies up, it will cause major damage.

The core support isn’t bent in this case it’s the inner crash bumper end that’s attached to the frame rails. That method will work to pull that true as well though
 
I forget if its the front or rear bumper with the styrofoam in it,but if you see styrofoam bits on the ground, it's a bitch. My accident stuffed the nose of the tbird under an explorer with a lift kit and his exhaust tore the hood and core support.
 
they’d need to source a used one since it’s not a produced part anymore.

???

Screenshot_20241212_162524_Samsung Internet.jpg



Regarding the hood latch, I actually had a really hard time shutting the hood today. That wasn't the case initially after the collision. I loosened the fender bolts today to eliminate fender contact with the door; after that the hood only latched with a hard slam.
 
Replacing that bumper isn’t too bad labor-wise. However given how much that bent and your little tweak on the upper rad support, I would want the shop to put it on a frame machine just to make sure the rail didn’t move before they weld the new one on.

So did they total it out or call it repairable? If they said it’s repairable, send them those pictures because that might change their mind before you bring it to a body shop for repairs.
 
If they said it’s repairable, send them those pictures because that might change their mind before you bring it to a body shop for repairs.

This is exactly what happened! Initial estimate, the insurance wanted to repair it. Body shop looked at it (looked only, no work was done), plus I sent those pics, and then they revised their assessment to total loss, with the option for me to retain the vehicle.

Replacing that bumper isn’t too bad labor-wise. However given how much that bent and your little tweak on the upper rad support, I would want the shop to put it on a frame machine just to make sure the rail didn’t move before they weld the new one on.

The shop is me at this point. Plan is to make repairs myself with replacement parts from the junkyard.

If I discover any structural damage that would compromise safety, then I'll have to give it up altogether.

...which raises the question: how do I recognize structural damage without a frame machine?
 
That's welded on, but a few moments on a frame machine will fix it no problem.

Having gone down this road with my 96, and my wife's 93. The car is totaled period, hopefully the Insurance Company will work with you and valve and scrap price (should only be 300-400 scrap).

My 96 Cougar was rear ended by a Datsun pickup and completely went over the rear bumper. When done on the frame machine and new rear quarter only me and Body guy could fine where the welds were-he had to point them out to me (in the belt line crease).

A alignment will tell you if there are any issues. A nice tree and an come-agian is good stand in for a frame machine.

I doubt you have any major problems. Measure the wheel base on both sides too.
 
This is exactly what happened! Initial estimate, the insurance wanted to repair it. Body shop looked at it (looked only, no work was done), plus I sent those pics, and then they revised their assessment to total loss, with the option for me to retain the vehicle.



The shop is me at this point. Plan is to make repairs myself with replacement parts from the junkyard.

If I discover any structural damage that would compromise safety, then I'll have to give it up altogether.

...which raises the question: how do I recognize structural damage without a frame machine?

Visually look for popped spot welds and compare the fitment of structure from the damaged left side against the intact right side, and measure if the frame rail extensions between the core support and bumper are the same length(that’s crumple zone with a deliberate accordion shape). If all that checks out I bet it won’t need a frame machine to get it any straighter. And even if it’s slightly tweaked as long as you can get the panels to fit and alignment in spec just send it.

As far as safety, I can tell just based on the pics provided it’s not been compromised, like I said earlier the crash bumper is there to protect consumers from exorbitant repairs not save them in a crash, that’s what the area behind the bumper (crumple zones) are for.

Can we get more close up pics of the upper core support area you circled the other day as being bent?
 
Damn. I would be livid.

I keep wondering when some DA on a cell phone is going to make the left hand turn in front of, jump in my lane sending me into a ditch or whatever... shit happens and it is not fun. Mainly what pisses me of is the insurance and there ability to say that are one and only mode of transportation... what we have worked our butts off to keep running, is worth the same price as the same car sitting in a junk yard. About $500.

These cars cannot be replaced by one off the shelf.
 
Visually look for popped spot welds and compare the fitment of structure from the damaged left side against the intact right side, and measure if the frame rail extensions between the core support and bumper are the same length(that’s crumple zone with a deliberate accordion shape).

Accordion, this?

20241212_183503.jpg

It seems unharmed to me. I think what happened was that the two cars only overlapped by several inches. The impact was between this piece and the left side of the car.

just send it.

LMAO.

As far as safety, I can tell just based on the pics provided it’s not been compromised,

Could you give me that in writing?
Oh wait; you did.

Can we get more close up pics of the upper core support area you circled the other day as being bent?

Sure, tomorrow I can take more pics. Sorry, what exactly is the core support?
 
Accordion, this?

View attachment 9096

It seems unharmed to me. I think what happened was that the two cars only overlapped by several inches. The impact was between this piece and the left side of the car.



LMAO.



Could you give me that in writing?
Oh wait; you did.



Sure, tomorrow I can take more pics. Sorry, what exactly is the core support?

Yes that’s the frame rail crumple zone, the aprons are designed to crumple as well(those are the sheetmetal the battery and air box are on top of/beside)

The core support is the box section above the radiator, that spans to the fenders, with the data tag, hood stops and latch. You circled part of it the other day as possibly being damaged.
 
Sorry about your car Martin!

The amount of time and effort we put into these cars makes them priceless to us. I have to agree with Matt, that's also why I don't bother with full coverage on mine. Getting offered a few thousand for my car if it was totaled; that would just further infuriate me with the whole situation. :LOL:

If my Cougar ever gets the frame tweaked beyond reasonable repair I will be to finding another undamaged Cougar, and swap everything over.

Hopefully you can get it fixed back up soon. You definitely have the skill of finding parts for it if need be
 
Yes that’s the frame rail crumple zone,

Any risk of damage further back? I mean that frame rail pretty much extends all the way to the firewall, no? Or where does it go? I cannot picture it right now...

You circled part of it the other day as possibly being damaged.

Yes. I need to get a better picture of it. But basically...there's a tiny gap here (red arrow); on the right side, it's totally flat. I think the fender support thingy (yellow arrow) was pushed in slightly.

20241212_191446.jpg
 
Any risk of damage further back? I mean that frame rail pretty much extends all the way to the firewall, no? Or where does it go? I cannot picture it right now...



Yes. I need to get a better picture of it. But basically...there's a tiny gap here (red arrow); on the right side, it's totally flat. I think the fender support thingy (yellow arrow) was pushed in slightly.
 

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Yes. I need to get a better picture of it. But basically...there's a tiny gap here (red arrow); on the right side, it's totally flat. I think the fender support thingy (yellow arrow) was pushed in slightly.

View attachment 9104

That’s exactly the picture and angle I wanted to see and expected… wanna see how my undamaged Cougar one looks?

IMG_6108.jpeg


Compared to the right side, also totally flat comparatively.

IMG_6109.jpeg


Did I mention Ford was kinda sloppy? I don’t think you have anything to worry about.
 
Did I mention Ford was kinda sloppy? I don’t think you have anything to worry about.

Hmmm.

Funny thing: I noticed one of the fender bolts hadn't been fastened. Literally, from the factory. It stuck out a few millimeters with original paint around some of its thread.
 
Agree with what everyone else said here, if the crinkle zone looks good, everything behind it is good (unless you had a rusty car, which you don't). I would use a strap and tree to pull the bumper support out and then fix the outside. My parts car had that part of the inner bumper cut off. 😬
 
Hmmm.

Funny thing: I noticed one of the fender bolts hadn't been fastened. Literally, from the factory. It stuck out a few millimeters with original paint around some of its thread.

Yeah I’ve found loose fasteners on mine… in fact there is actually a nut embedded into the tar soundproofing under the factory paint under the rear seat!

What I think happened with your fender is it got got pushed back by the bumper cover and header panel within its u bolts, that’s why it made the door hard to open. The structural fender support never moved) Believe me, if I felt your car was structurally questionable I’d be vocal about it, I’m not one to sugarcoat things, but based on everything I’m seeing I truly believe your bird’s set for a full recovery.
 
I forget if its the front or rear bumper with the styrofoam in it,but if you see styrofoam bits on the ground, it's a bitch. My accident stuffed the nose of the tbird under an explorer with a lift kit and his exhaust tore the hood and core support.
They both have the Styrofoam in them
 
Damn. I would be livid.

I keep wondering when some DA on a cell phone is going to make the left hand turn in front of, jump in my lane sending me into a ditch or whatever... shit happens and it is not fun. Mainly what pisses me of is the insurance and there ability to say that are one and only mode of transportation... what we have worked our butts off to keep running, is worth the same price as the same car sitting in a junk yard. About $500.

These cars cannot be replaced by one off the shelf.

Yeah really. I once had someone almost merge into me from the right lane, and there were no other cars in front or behind us for probably 20 car lengths. We were driving like that for several if not a dozen blocks.

I knew the van was there the whole time, but I just saw a huge dark mass eclipsing the windshield. I immediately knew it was happening and focused all of my driving on getting the left wheel as close as possible to the road median and braking. I almost never use my horn for morons, but I needed attention from other drivers or hopefully a cop so I laid on it.

I'm sure someone can make a mistake like that, but I often wonder if it was an attempt at insurance fraud
 

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