Replacement Ignition Clyinder

bowez

bowez

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My orginal ignition lock was lost during the theft, I still have the original keys and door lock. How difficult is it to recode a new ignition lock (the replacement that came with car was damaged)? Or is this something I can only realistically get done by a locksmith?


Basically if I can where would I get the pins to recode the new cylinder?
 
Often when you buy a new cylinder it will come with a set of pins to re-pin it to match. Changing the pins in the ignition lock cylinder isn’t hard at all, but the hard part is you will have to figure out what the pins should be based on measurements of the key. Taking apart the door lock cylinder may give you a clue, but I’m pretty sure if the door lock and the ignition lock don’t actually use all the same parts of the key, so the door code will not be the same as the ignition code. Alternatively, you could just take the replacement lock cylinder and original key to a locksmith, and they probably wouldn’t charge much to do it.
 
Or the cheap solution:

Go to a junkyard, pick up a cylinder with key, and just use that. Downside is that you have to carry two keys, one for the door and one for the ignition.


Oh wait...I suppose that's what you're doing currently (?).
 
A word of advice, get an OEM lock cylinder and key (avoid ones that still turn, but have wear issues). If you get one that came from, oh... RockAuto, Amazon, eBay, Oreilley's, AutoZone. etc etc... they are crap and don't hold their position in the off mode very well after time and it's hard to tell when you turn it off.

The pic shows 3rd party lock cylinder, notice the crappy brass / tin locking pin for when its in the off position? They bend really easy. OEM is actual piece of metal and are designed diff than 3rd party. So, if you see the flat piece of metal, run away! I have been through 3 of these in the last 20 + years and will never get these again if I can help it. Others may have not had much issue with these lock cylinders, but I have been putting up with them since I bought the car. I think the car was a repo cause it never had an OEM lock cylinder.
 

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1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
Or the cheap solution:

Go to a junkyard, pick up a cylinder with key, and just use that. Downside is that you have to carry two keys, one for the door and one for the ignition.
Click to expand...
You can have a lock smith key the lock cylinder to your door key, but its expensive.
 
MadMikeyL said:
Often when you buy a new cylinder it will come with a set of pins to re-pin it to match.
Click to expand...
Dorman at one time made an ignition cylinder that had this ability. It came with everything to easily repin it to the original key. It was a nice option but has long been discontinued. It was the same part number as the one they sell now, they just changed it to the standard replacement type.

It may be possible to still find old stock on eBay. I bought one about 6 years ago
 
Kenz said:
Dorman at one time made an ignition cylinder that had this ability. It came with everything to easily repin it to the original key. It was a nice option but has long been discontinued. It was the same part number as the one they sell now, they just changed it to the standard replacement type.

It may be possible to still find old stock on eBay. I bought one about 6 years ago
Click to expand...
Interesting. Thank you for the follow up.
 
As long as the picture in the listing is accurate this is one of the old stock Dormin kits. You can see the extra parts in the picture that are used to rekey it

www.ebay.com

DORMAN IGNITION SWITCH LOCK CYLINDER ( 924-724) | eBay

IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER / KEY SWITCH LOCK. DORMAN 924-724 / other p/n F69Z11582AA. TAURUS / WINDSTAR / TOWN CAR / EXPLORER.
www.ebay.com
 
@Derphound01 is a locksmith, I believe; I'd wait and ask him. iirc, tagging someone like that gives them a pointer to the comment. he works days.
 
I am not a locksmith but I play one on TV. I also do a lot of B&E work.

I had a Dorman for a 1996 Mustang 10-cut sitting on the shelf from a previous project and had it re-keyed to match at my local locksmith. Only went with that one because I liked the look of the key shroud the best. I also wanted a key with the big transponder head just for the looks.

Like all the other aftermarket cylinders, they do not have a solid Lock position. You have to ease it to Lock and make sure it clicks. Otherwise you'll pull the key early and leave it in accessory mode.

Photos are posted here: https://forum.birdcats.com/threads/project-chameleon.130/post-1476
 
White Lincoln said:
Oh, one more thing... DON'T LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU when changing your lock cylinder:
Click to expand...
Don't worry the current cylinder doesn't have locking pin so it just falls out. Think this was how the previous guy secured the car since he had no door key, take the cylinder with him.

Though does remind me of working on the power steering rack, stripped the driver's side engine bay.
 
I ordered the cylinder from the eBay link I posted earlier. Lucked out and it is actually a new old stock model! I don't need it right now but it's good to have a spare and Dorman doesn't make them anymore...
The only downside is it is the 97 style cylinder that looks slightly newer, but it will work in earlier models.

Seller has two left

lock cylinder.jpg
 
RockAuto sells the Motorcraft version which can be configured to match your original key. $50. Good news is it appears the same lock cylinder was used on Mustangs so somebody will always be selling this somewhere forever.
 
Looking at the pictures of the Motorcraft model, it is exactly the same as the older Dorman. Dorman must have stopped selling the better one to cut costs... also most people probably won't bother to go through the extra steps to configure it to the factory key.
 
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