Snap! No engine start!

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

That’s factory correct other than the ziptie.

That was me. The connector broke off the Christmas tree fasterner part.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

Alright, everything is back together, and I have no leftover parts which is usually a good sign. And there were a lot of parts.

My roommate asked me last night how my "project" was going, as he usually asks. I shouted out that this was no project. This was a necessary repair and the single most annoying one to date. Knock on wood, please, nothing break anytime soon.

To my observations, I'll share some but I won't go through a formal how-to since they exist plentifully online; just look for Ford ignition actuator replacement.

The ignition actuator connects the ignition lock with the ignition switch under the steering column. In our case, tilt column, it's a pair of two actuators, upper and lower.

My upper actuator lost its pin. I ended up putting it back in and reusing it. I found my pin in this compartment:


Hard to see here, but there's a slot between that compartment and the one to right where the lower actuator slides up and down. That slot is for the steering lock latch.

Which brings me to one observation: the pin popping out like this is distinctly more likely with steering wheel tilt in its center position (as mine usually is) because that way the pin is aligned with that slot. In the other tilt positions, the pin moves up or down respectively, away from the slot.

On the above picture, you can barely see the lower actuator because it's so deep in. But even fully up, in Accessory mode, it does not poke out of the metal housing; it becomes about flush with it. That's why inserting the upper actuator requires some sanding (see the two options I described earlier).
And that's also why I decided to reuse my existing part. The pin, once pushed back in, appeared to be seated firmly. If this happened again - hopefully not, no, never, please - then I think I'd remove the entire column and fix this outside of the car with a new part.

And just an oddity: This black connection here appears to be plastic (?). If so, kind of strange in a place that has to withstand constant handling.



When I connected the battery, ugh, I didn't realize the key was in the Run position. Hope that doesn't cause any issues (?).


Finally, I did make an attempt to address the root cause of all this: an extremely heavy ignition switch (though that's how they all are by design). Heavy to start the engine that is. It's so heavy because there are two springs inside the switch which push back from Start to Run. I removed one of them, which makes the load on the key and actuators when starting the engine much lighter. On the other hand, it may feel a bit loose; I'll make up my mind later (I can always replace the switch if I prefer the stock feel).

 

[Grog6]

I have a buddy that wanted a modern setup, he removed both springs Ind used a solenoid to turn the car on, and a pushbutton start. This was an 90's mustang, but it's the same switch. He added a toggle switch to listen to the radio.

 

[1997ThunderbirdLXV6]

@Grog6
I'd actually like a starter button. Maybe a future mod.

 

[Grog6]

Setting up the solenoid is the hard part. Turning it off turns the car off. iirc, he used a chip like they implant in animals, on his keychain and a chip reader to turn on the solenoid.

 

[White Lincoln]

@Grog6
I'd actually like a starter button. Maybe a future mod.

I've been turning a key all my life. Don't have much desire to try something new.