Steering Assist?

Vicinity

Vicinity

Stock CD Player
Joined
Sep 22, 2023
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566
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PNW
Vehicle Details
96 4.6 LX, 98 LSC
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What is the steering assist option supposed to accomplish? On my drive home today in the LSC, I noticed that the steering wheel was resisting to turn a 90. The wheel didn't return to position after the turn either. It was fine until this point. I didnt check if the favored the left or right turn
 
Vicinity said:
What is the steering assist option supposed to accomplish? On my drive home today in the LSC, I noticed that the steering wheel was resisting to turn a 90. The wheel didn't return to position after the turn either. It was fine until this point. I didnt check if the favored the left or right turn
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I always understood it to adjust the effort you have to add based on speed.
 
It's supposed to make it easier to turn the wheel at low speeds (think parking lot)
 
Vicinity said:
What is the steering assist option supposed to accomplish? On my drive home today in the LSC, I noticed that the steering wheel was resisting to turn a 90. The wheel didn't return to position after the turn either. It was fine until this point. I didnt check if the favored the left or right turn
Click to expand...

It’s designed to reduce assist at higher speeds, increasing feedback through the wheel and effectively making the car less twitchy to user inputs at those speeds.

Failure of one or more inputs will default it to full assist, never the opposite. When you lose returnability it’s a mechanical problem, usually bad ball joints.
 
Ok right that makes sense. Thank you
 
Given that it's a balljoint and/or a tierod, how much should I not drive it before its addressed? My only intent to drive at this point is not to let the car sit until I have the replacement approach situated.
 
Vicinity said:
Given that it's a balljoint and/or a tierod, how much should I not drive it before its addressed? My only intent to drive at this point is not to let the car sit until I have the replacement approach situated.
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I wouldn’t drive it an inch if it’s not returning, that’s the sign of imminent failure
 
Vicinity said:
Given that it's a balljoint and/or a tierod, how much should I not drive it before its addressed? My only intent to drive at this point is not to let the car sit until I have the replacement approach situated.
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Keep in mind, joints like that are more likely to fail at low speeds. That said, if you keep it over 70 you should be fine ;)
 
I've had a shop replace most of its front suspension now, but I don't know why they didn't use or replace my sway bar bushings and strut rod bushings that I had asked them to and provided. Still waiting on their response. Just want to get it right.

The strutrod bushings probably werent failing to begin with, but I think sway bar bushings is giving me worry. The handling is certaintly better but theres still a bit of resistance for the wheel trying to return center. The car was handed back to me at normal temperatuer so I don't understand how they wouldn't have caught that especially considering it was the initial problem
:zrant:

The bird is a bit more crusty but does not have that issue

How much of this can be chalked up to a bad alignment?
 
Did they align it after they replaced the LCAs? The only thing that should prevent good returnability if those are replaced is if the caster is wildly low. Given their lack of replacing the SRBs I think you might want to find a better shop.
 
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