The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

Springs and shocks matter most, sway bars should be for fine tuning. I’ve never been a fan of the huge 1-3/8 Addcos for that reason; the stiffer the sway bar the less independent the suspension behaves.

I think quantifying good handling is based a little too much on the “feelz “ meter, and for that reason I won’t really get into what I think is best since it’s a brick wall debate(especially when so called “bracing” rears its head lol) but I think the most underrated and overlooked handling component by far that is more effective than any sway bar, shock, spring or brace on these cars or any car are the tires and wheels to accommodate them. Followed by brakes. These cars even with stock non-sport LX suspensions don’t even have much body roll to speak of.
 
Eibach was one of the softest aftermarket springs available.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
the stiffer the sway bar the less independent the suspension behaves.
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:idea: ^^^This is actually brilliant!

XR7-4.6 said:
These cars even with stock non-sport LX suspensions don’t even have much body roll to speak of.
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Totally agree.

My freeway exit has a long curve off-ramp which gets progressively tighter. I simply tap the brakes to cancel cruise control from 65 mph before merging into the exit lane, then I coast along the ramp comfortably from 55 mph down to 45 mph, and body roll is noticeable but entirely controlled. That's with factory springs/shocks.
Our cars are fairly wide, with a low center of gravity for today's standards.

A few weeks ago, I drove my roommate's Cadillac ATS along that ramp. That car has a reputation for outstanding handling. I admit it's great to drive and somewhat flatter, but it did not encourage me to go any faster at all.


I will say that in the Thunderbird, I adjust my driving significantly when the roads are wet and/or dirty. I have never really experienced any understeer in this car (which would probably make me more comfortable); I rather fear oversteer. So in anything other than perfect road conditions, I go down that ramp like the proverbial little old lady.
 
I scared a cop who was behind me one morning. I slid the car slightly on a curve on the interstate. In the rain, about 90,lol. On a side note, Never point out the new tires,rofl. I didn't even get a ticket.
 
2 stupid questions in one post.
What size is the rear axle nut?
Was the dorman replacement incorrect threading, or am I remembering that wrong?
 
Rear axle nut is 36mmm iirc. get the ford nuts. The dorman nut is the one with the ganky treads; It really eats the spindle coming off. I used the ford bolts for the rear on the front as well.
 
XR7-4.6 said:
Springs and shocks matter most, sway bars should be for fine tuning. I’ve never been a fan of the huge 1-3/8 Addcos for that reason; the stiffer the sway bar the less independent the suspension behaves.

I think quantifying good handling is based a little too much on the “feelz “ meter, and for that reason I won’t really get into what I think is best since it’s a brick wall debate(especially when so called “bracing” rears its head lol) but I think the most underrated and overlooked handling component by far that is more effective than any sway bar, shock, spring or brace on these cars or any car are the tires and wheels to accommodate them. Followed by brakes. These cars even with stock non-sport LX suspensions don’t even have much body roll to speak of.
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Thanks. Since you mention it, what is your view on that engine cradle brace from SCP that is intended to address the body flex that can cause cracks in the firewall? Is that good for handling as well or doesn't matter much, and is it good for fixing that problem or is there a better approach? That's probably the brace I would buy, if any.

Ya, I like the stock sway bars, when I get around to it I will remove the AADCO bars from the wrecked Thunderbird and sell them, they're in great shape (it's the driver's door that took all the pain).

The reason I was asking about this is that when I first got my first Thunderbird, I would notice when driving on the freeway (~70mph) that if I hit a bump in the freeway that the car would to that lazy up&down bounce a couple times where each up/down took like a second to complete. And it had some lean in corners at those speeds. After the Eibachs and Tokicos, those same bumps were quicker up/down bouncing that didn't dip or rise as much, with less lean, too. It's just sometimes if I hit some bumps in the road (city driving) that it feels slightly jarring.
 
You need good socks. I have none of those issues on Lazarus, with konis, or the tbird with Tokico blues.
I know listin two out of production soks isnt elpful, but...
 
How does one change the frame side strut rod bushings with the least disassembly?
I recall perhaps a scissor jack was used by some people at some point. I don't want to do that I don't think. Unless you can do it with no damage.
I don't really like to force things too too much.
I also recall that the scissor Jack's collapsed?
 
No Jack required; You unbolt the front bolt, wile holding the arm. mark the rear bolt; that's an alignment thing.
 
I destroyed a scissor jack trying to do it that way. Probably best to do as grog said and remove the rod.
 
I broke a scissor Jack with that method too, I don’t recommend it. I just mark the LCA eccentric and unbolt the LCA from the K member and shock and pivot it out of the way to get the strut rod out.
 
3_97_Sports said:
How does one change the frame side strut rod bushings with the least disassembly?
I recall perhaps a scissor jack was used by some people at some point. I don't want to do that I don't think. Unless you can do it with no damage.
I don't really like to force things too too much.
I also recall that the scissor Jack's collapsed?
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I have to say something here.. sorry. You might as well use a cinder block. Please use a proper floor jack that can handle a couple tons. Even a 2 ton jack from AutoZone or Pep boys would work. They are usually on sale somewhere and usually include to jack stands.
 
White Lincoln said:
I have to say something here.. sorry. You might as well use a cinder block. Please use a proper floor jack that can handle a couple tons. Even a 2 ton jack from AutoZone or Pep boys would work. They are usually on sale somewhere and usually include to jack stands.
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The scissor jack was to force the strut or something to move in order to remove the strut rod bushing, not support the car.
 
Exactly, the hack was to use the scissor jack to push horizontally against the coilover to push it(and by effect the LCA) back and allow room to get the strut rod out of the LCA. I got it to work on one side before my scissor jack imploded 😆
 
When I did the front strut rod bushings I removed the strut rod. Then spent some time with a hammer and chisel beating up the metal edge of the bushing sleeve. Once you roll over the sleeve you can take it apart by hand. If you have an air chisel that would make quick work of it.
 
I am certainly no expert on anything however, I have found lower profile tires with less sidewall percentage to be a major part in increasing "stiffness" as you say. I just went from 40 series tires to 60 series and I can tell a big difference in handling. The 60 series feel way more loose when cornering hard, which I can only attribute to more sidewall flex from the 60 profile. Of course, I may be interpreting stiffness to measure something other than you intend...
 
3_97_Sports said:
The scissor jack was to force the strut or something to move in order to remove the strut rod bushing, not support the car.
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Correct. I used my floor jack without issue. My apologies, I did not mean to be rude or invasive. I just hate to see someone damage the front end or get hurt using a scissor jack.
 
GRWeldon said:
I am certainly no expert on anything however, I have found lower profile tires with less sidewall percentage to be a major part in increasing "stiffness" as you say. I just went from 40 series tires to 60 series and I can tell a big difference in handling. The 60 series feel way more loose when cornering hard, which I can only attribute to more sidewall flex from the 60 profile. Of course, I may be interpreting stiffness to measure something other than you intend...
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Ya, that makes sense. But I hate the way low profile tires look, even on modern cars that are designed for them. They look like wagon wheels to me because of the tire/rim proportions -



No brake rotor is big enough behind those things, they all look too small. On the other hand, muscle cars with 14-15" rims also look funny to me now, those 70-75 series tires are too fat, like donuts (redlines help). So I settle for 60 series (I will hopefully soon upgrade to 17" rims and Mustang hubs/brakes). As I said before, I'm not racing my car so I don't need amazing handling, just not old man boat handling.
 
rampagingsloth said:
Ya, that makes sense. But I hate the way low profile tires look, even on modern cars that are designed for them. They look like wagon wheels to me because of the tire/rim proportions -



No brake rotor is big enough behind those things, they all look too small. On the other hand, muscle cars with 14-15" rims also look funny to me now, those 70-75 series tires are too fat, like donuts (redlines help). So I settle for 60 series (I will hopefully soon upgrade to 17" rims and Mustang hubs/brakes). As I said before, I'm not racing my car so I don't need amazing handling, just not old man boat handling.
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I hear you. My SC has 16" 60 profile and I can tell you some brands have much less sidewall flex for a given size. I once had Sumitomo 60s on my Acura. They replaced Michelins. They felt like gummy bears compared to the same size Michelins.

I'm running Yokohama 70s on my 96LX currently. They are a bit more squishy than a set of Generals I once had on a Cougar. Adequate. I put the same tires, only 60s on my 94SC yesterday but really haven't been able to put them through the paces yet do to cooling fan issues. I'm sure they will be at least as good as the Khumos that I took off of it.
 
rampagingsloth said:
Ya, that makes sense. But I hate the way low profile tires look, even on modern cars that are designed for them. They look like wagon wheels to me because of the tire/rim proportions -



No brake rotor is big enough behind those things, they all look too small. On the other hand, muscle cars with 14-15" rims also look funny to me now, those 70-75 series tires are too fat, like donuts (redlines help). So I settle for 60 series (I will hopefully soon upgrade to 17" rims and Mustang hubs/brakes). As I said before, I'm not racing my car so I don't need amazing handling, just not old man boat handling.
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I love the look of the bulged out sidewalls on muscle cars, but what I think looks good most often doesn’t match functional/efficient 😆 for that matter bias plies look better than radials.

I hate 15s on muscle cars that mostly came with 14s, normies don’t notice the difference but I do!

Modern cars(challengers mustangs Camaros) look outright terrible with anything under 18”. The bodies are too fat and flat
 
Stupid Question.... Can a LH front shock assy. be made to fit on the right? Apparently I ordered 2 left replacement assemblies. I changed the left yesterday and when I went to put the right in (Passenger), I see the big yellow LH sticker and my top 3 bolts are a little off. They are probably close enough where I could muscle them in.

The issue is that I'm leaving Alabama for a trip to Michigan on Thursday and nobody has the Monroe Quick Strut in stock and I doubt the promises of "end of the day tomorrow" which is Wednesday.

What say ye of greater knowledge than I?
 
GRWeldon said:
Stupid Question.... Can a LH front shock assy. be made to fit on the right? Apparently I ordered 2 left replacement assemblies. I changed the left yesterday and when I went to put the right in (Passenger), I see the big yellow LH sticker and my top 3 bolts are a little off. They are probably close enough where I could muscle them in.

The issue is that I'm leaving Alabama for a trip to Michigan on Thursday and nobody has the Monroe Quick Strut in stock and I doubt the promises of "end of the day tomorrow" which is Wednesday.

What say ye of greater knowledge than I?
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The shock and spring is the same, just the mount would be twisted.
 
You can use the ass cheek spring compressor, but if you're skinny you might need a friend too; :)
Install the shock were it fits, carefully put your weight on the fender, at the shock, and remove the jesus nut. move the shock to the other side and reassemble. You really need two people to put the rod thru the hole going back together.
 
Totally serious. Sport springs move the most, but this method is probably safer than the compressors I have.
If you're 100lbs soaking wet, you should find a 250lb friend. :)

Sport springs are 500lbs/inch, and you have to compress 4" to get the nut on. That's 2000 lbs, trying to break the shock. If it breaks, you won't notice, but the furniture is going to be a mess... I did it with the koni's, and seriously thought I was gonna die,lol.
There's an 8mm bolt, that holds the insert in. :)
 
Grog6 said:
Totally serious. Sport springs move the most, but this method is probably safer than the compressors I have.
If you're 100lbs soaking wet, you should find a 250lb friend. :)

Sport springs are 500lbs/inch, and you have to compress 4" to get the nut on. That's 2000 lbs, trying to break the shock. If it breaks, you won't notice, but the furniture is going to be a mess... I did it with the koni's, and seriously thought I was gonna die,lol.
There's an 8mm bolt, that holds the insert in. :)
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Statically, the spring compressor is a rocket launcher, but pressing "my butt" down on those springs WILL require somebody on my shoulders to add enough weight to press the spring down. My first spring I did with a spring compressor almost got me impaled, but luckily when the bolt came off and the tool slipped off the spring, it shoot down the bench and hit the wall. The next time I had my friend do it with his set of spring compressors. Let him get impaled.
 
The car puts about 1000 lbs on the shock, you just need enough additional weight to get it to go back. Unless you have a sport, you do not have those springs. there's a code on the doorplate,jjjj is a sport.
 
Grog6 said:
The car puts about 1000 lbs on the shock, you just need enough additional weight to get it to go back. Unless you have a sport, you do not have those springs. there's a code on the doorplate,jjjj is a sport.
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(checking door plate.... ) Nope. Not a sport! <chuckle>
 
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