The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

My Tauruses all had green backlighting but they were all GL wagons with the 110mph speedometer and three-knob climate. The Duratec had a 120mph speedometer and the SHO had the 150mph speedometer, so that could be the source of the differences.
 
The rubber pedal pad on my parking brake pedal is worn away and I was wondering if replacement rubber pads were available. Searching gets me a lot of brake pad returns, which aren't helpful. Thanks.
 
Stanley said:
The rubber pedal pad on my parking brake pedal is worn away and I was wondering if replacement rubber pads were available. Searching gets me a lot of brake pad returns, which aren't helpful. Thanks.
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I typed this in "1994 ford thunderbird emergency brake pedal pad replacement" and got a bunch of crap that look like peddles... :p You can change the year of course.
 
I had terrible luck trying to find good parking brakes when I was looking last year. The pad isn’t readily replaceable either.

Gen II Mark IIIIs have more normal pedal pads, I grabbed one out of desperation/rolling the dice and don’t regret it. I was able to use a new pad for a late model Mercedes to match my Bullitt/Mach 1 pedal set

IMG_4406.jpeg
 
What would be the best connection type to replace this throttle pedal sensor connector on the factory harness? It is a very fine gauge and 6 wires, probably 22-24awg. I'd like to avoid soldering if possible because of the tight location. I was thinking of using low voltage phone line crimp connector and heat shrink. I'm just not sure what I would use to crimp such small wires.

connector.jpg

Long story short my ecoboost truck been getting an intermittent code for "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/ Switch A/B Voltage Correlation" since I have owned it it. I had the throttle body, and throttle pedal assembly replaced under warranty, but it's now out of warranty and the code came back>:(.
I think I've tracked it down to a bad connection on the pedal assembly because if I wiggle the connector the issue seems to go away for a few months.

Edit...

I found these on Amazon. But never used anything smaller than the 22-16awg red crimps, so I need to find the appropriate crimping tool. Would they be a good choice for this location?
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Edit 2...

Might consider these
:unsure:

1724701758054.jpeg
 
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Here is what I decided to go with. Never came across heat shrink butt connectors this small, maybe they are a nonstandard size? Whatever the case they fit the wire much better than the red ones. The wire seems to be 22 gauge which the red ones are rated for, but they didn't hold well enough even after using a ratcheting crimp tool. I am optimistic these 22-26 will work well.

The only crimp tool I could find for them was $60 on Amazon so that was a pass. I should have something I can use.

small crimp.jpg
 
Next stupid question:
What engine bay bulb does the T-Bird / Cougar use? Stupidnet says #906 but my Town Car uses a 912? The Town Car bulb is twice (or more) brighter than the 906. Anyone else switch out there engine bay bulb to something better and brighter? If so, what did you put in? The LED's are still way over priced for my taste.
 
Would anyone be willing to machine a bracket for my S10 hydraulic master cylinder to a T45?!

I can do it, but I’m being lazy and just want it ready to go.
 
does anyone know what the difference is between a mark crank and a bird crank?
 
Grog6 said:
does anyone know what the difference is between a mark crank and a bird crank?
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They’re the same,maybe a slight difference in what they’re weighted for but both are standard 6-bolt cast
 
I was looking at one online, and they specifically said not for aluminum block, so I wondered. I compared two side by side,band the only diff I saw was the depth of the rust. :)
The 233k mi crank from the red car still measures within spec or new. I'm gonna assemble it with the arp stuff and stock bearings, and see how it plastigages

This is what it said, on ra, I might have believed them 10 years ago...

ENGINETECH 164300 Includes Connecting Rod Bearings & Crankshaft Main Bearings; Reman Info

Windsor. Flywheel flange has 6 bolt holes. Includes bearings. Forging # F65EBB18D. Does not fit aluminum blocks. Check for proper physical match before installation. (Only 1
 
Different stupid question: plastic models seems to be a 1990, the rusty wallace version, and no others. Is the body shape the same thru 97? I know cladding,but the metal.
 
Grog6 said:
Different stupid question: plastic models seems to be a 1990, the rusty wallace version, and no others. Is the body shape the same thru 97? I know cladding,but the metal.
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Metal is all the same minus the holes for the cladding.
 
The rear sway bar bushing bracket/clamp is unique to these cars, right? Just wondering if I need to refurb a set or of I can buy new? I haven't found any other than universal. I'm running a 1 1/8" bar I bought used and pretty sure I got the front brackets/clamps.
 
The rear sway bar links can be rebuilt in poly this kit...

61148 | Rear Sway Bar-Endlink Bushings - 27 mm | Thunderbird

Prothane polyurethane rear sway bar and endlink bushings for 89-97 Ford Thunderbird. 61148 fits a 27 mm bar and is backed by a lifetime warranty! In stock now!
www.suspension.com www.suspension.com
IMO it's best to use the factory style links on the rear. Aftermarket ones can bend over time because they dont have the extra articulation of factory style.

The sway bar to frame mounts are unique to these cars but replacement bushing are available. They can be switched to the aftermarket universal mount types easily enough buy making a custom bracket.
 
Kenz said:
The rear sway bar links can be rebuilt in poly this kit...

61148 | Rear Sway Bar-Endlink Bushings - 27 mm | Thunderbird

Prothane polyurethane rear sway bar and endlink bushings for 89-97 Ford Thunderbird. 61148 fits a 27 mm bar and is backed by a lifetime warranty! In stock now!
www.suspension.com www.suspension.com
IMO it's best to use the factory style links on the rear. Aftermarket ones can bend over time because they dont have the extra articulation of factory style.

The sway bar to frame mounts are unique to these cars but replacement bushing are available. They can be switched to the aftermarket universal mount types easily enough buy making a custom bracket.
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So these don't fit directly? What kind of mod does it need?

9.5161 | Universal - Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings - 25mm

Energy Suspension universal sway bar bushings in 25 mm. Made from premium polyurethane! Greaseable with a straight zerk! In stock now! Ships out now! 9.5161
www.energysuspensionparts.com www.energysuspensionparts.com
 
The energysuspension mount will not be a direct fit since only one bolt is used on the stock setup. You can use large washers or make a small bracket/plate Here is a screenshot from another site. I couldn't find the thread I was looking for that explains it in more detail.

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I've always had a springy crunch sounds going over a speedbump when the car is in stone cold winter weather, and It never seemed like an issue to me. It would go away after 10 minutes of driving or so.

The last three times I've driven, its making the sounds in 80 degree weather. Can anyone stab a guess at what that might be?
 
Vicinity said:
I've always had a springy crunch sounds going over a speedbump when the car is in stone cold winter weather, and It never seemed like an issue to me. It would go away after 10 minutes of driving or so.

The last three times I've driven, its making the sounds in 80 degree weather. Can anyone stab a guess at what that might be?
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I've had ball joints and bushings make that sound. Can you replicate the sound while the car is sitting still and bouncing the car up and down? If so, find a helper and have them bounce the car up and down while you put your hand on different bushings and the ball joint. Sometimes you'll hear it everywhere, but you'll usually be able to feel the main culprit. Just use caution so you don't get injured in the process.
 
KevinVarnes said:
I've had ball joints and bushings make that sound.
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Bushings are what I remember that sound coming from. My front wheel bearings made that clunk also like there was something lose.
 
Does anyone have the wattage levels for the footwell and centre dome light fixtures? I want to make sure my LED replacements aren't drawing too much power.
 
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