The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

There's no way that would happen unless there's a driver board to go bad. A 10w led is too bright for a bedroom, and very few incandescent bulbs are that small.

I'm using leds everywere tese days; I bought some 100w lights for the shop, and they are fucking bright; much brighter than the 1000W halogens I replaced.
 
I agree with all the previous answers, but if you absolutely want a specific answer to this...

Stanley said:
Does anyone have the wattage levels for the footwell and centre dome light fixtures
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...all you have to do is line up your owner's manual with Sylvania packaging. The owner's manual tells you which bulb type goes where; and Sylvania actually prints the wattage of each type onto the package, usually left lower corner.

What you will find is...exactly what everyone has been saying, namely that wattage of LEDs is far lower than same-type incandescents.

Wattage and current draw are more interesting, and potentially important, when you add more bulbs to a circuit, but not when you're merely replacing bulbs.
 
This is only kind of related, but I've never seen an ideal prompt for this here, so here goes anyway:

Nobody I know has been more excited than I've been about developments in residential lighting over the past couple of decades, especially in E12 and E26 socketed bulbs. It's an ultra-esoteric area of interest for me. I know there are people who are fans of the classic 2700K 60W incandescent, but I'm not one of them. I hated how so many sockets in fixtures were rated for 60W max. It was a practical limitation on how bright you could make a room without increasing the number of light fixtures.

Nowadays, I have 3 90W LEDs in my attic. If I take the manufacturer's word, that's 36,000 total lumens. I've never enjoyed working in an unfinished attic more, at least when the air temps up there are tolerable, which is something else I'll be addressing soon as well.

Needless to say, I like to light up the night, and that applies to my car interiors too when they're not in motion. I've changed my interior bulbs several times since 2010 or so—not out of necessity, but because I keep looking out for better, brighter, and purer white LEDs.
 
I used to use a GE 60w bulb,that was close to daylight. they went unobtanium, so I went led. I buy whatever's cheapest for general use, but cool white is better for the work areas.
 
I'm going to head to a junkyard for the first time tomorrow to try and pull a main tail lamp housing. Anything I should know about trying to remove one of these?
 
Stanley said:
I'm going to head to a junkyard for the first time tomorrow to try and pull a main tail lamp housing. Anything I should know about trying to remove one of these?
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I can't remember for sure, but I think it's 10 mm nuts. A deeper socket may help because the studs are somewhat long for a short socket.

Removal is very easy. Just access the nuts behind the carpet.
 
Stanley said:
I'm going to head to a junkyard for the first time tomorrow to try and pull a main tail lamp housing. Anything I should know about trying to remove one of these?
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There are 3 nuts/washers in 10 mm. Very straight forward. Twist the bulb socket and pull out, then remove the 3 nuts
 
When I worked on PET scanners, my lab had red lights. When they built a new production facility, they used yellow lights. Both suck for seeing fine detail. Blue light is much better, for seeing fine detail, due to shorter wavelength. All monochromatic light suck at fine detail, because that's not what works for our eyes.
 
Anyone happen to know if early cars had this plastic cover? I didn't remember mine havening one, but it does fit. This is from my parts car. Mine is a91, it was a 95
 
Zep5.0 said:
Anyone happen to know if early cars had this plastic cover? I didn't remember mine havening one, but it does fit. This is from my parts car. Mine is a91, it was a 95
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I’m pretty sure it was only there with the keyless entry option, be it early or late.
 
Trunk Monkey said:
The honor and PRIDE of being the FIRST winner of the NOT TSTSNBN Birdcats kinda-annual WTF is the stupidest question of the quasi-year contest.
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OH MY GOD!!!!!!

Damn awesome site... just awesome. You can win a prize for being a total idiot! Oh wait... they do that in the school system now.

Balloon deflated.
 
This is probably nothing...but as you know, I have this expectation that my 20-something-year-old engine performs like new.

After a cold start, when beginning to drive, I hear a rattle. It's not terribly loud but noticeable with the window open.

I only start hearing it once I'm moving. I don't really hear it when the engine is just idling. However, that may be due to RPMs being too low at idle to cause the rattle.

The frequency of the rattle accelerates with RPMs. That said, we're talking about 1,500 RPM at most as I head toward the exit of this residential area.

Now to what I consider the most significant observation: by the time I reach the end of the block, or at the latest by the following turn, the rattle goes away entirely.


So...it can't really be temperature related because the engine doesn't get warm that quickly. I was wondering about oil circulation, but that should happen within seconds after startup.
 
Most likely a broken weld on an exhaust heat shield. The exhaust will be hot by the end of the block, and the heat shield expands away from the cat and stops rattling. If you can get the car on a lift, it should be easy to find, and hopefully just throw a quick tack weld on there.
 
Take a mallet or dead blow hammer and tap on the exhaust in different places. You'll find any exhaust rattles pretty quickly. I've also had exhaust leaks that will make noise when cold, but seal up within 30 seconds of startup. Unfortunately, this is one of those "I need to hear this in person" type of things. One man's rattle is another man's tick.
 
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