The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

Those are the ones I used and they fit with no issue. I'd assume they are the same part
 
Stanley said:
Here's a definite stupid question. Are these:

Prothane 61709 Rear Lower Spring Isolators - IRS | Energy Suspension Parts

Rear Coil Spring Isolator Pads made by Prothane | 61709 Rear Lower Spring Isolators - IRS.
www.energysuspensionparts.com www.energysuspensionparts.com

the same as:
www.supercoupeperformance.com

Rear Spring Cups - Poly Upper and Lower

<p>Are you unhappy with the ride height of the rear of your car? Do you have a large stereo and the car sits low in the rear? Well, this common problem is now easily solved with our poly upper/lower rear spring cups.</p>
www.supercoupeperformance.com www.supercoupeperformance.com

Not necessarily 100% the same part, but designed to serve the same function?
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Unsure if they're the same one, but yes, serve the same purpose.
 
Damn, thanks all. Accidentally bought a redundant set then.
 
My roommate just bought a floor jack and jack stands. We used to only have ramps...

So now I'm wondering...

Jacking up the front seems straight forward. Floor jack under the K member, then lower onto stands on frame lift points next to cats.

But how do you do the rear?! There are only two lift points, and the manual specifically prohibits lifting the differential housing.

20250729_125043.jpg
 
And another question related to the above:

Playing with that floor jack, I lifted the front. I turned the steering side to side, engine off, wheels off the ground. And I was a bit surprised how much resistance I felt. I mean yeah, way lighter than turning the wheel with engine off and wheels on the ground, but not the feather light I expected.

I do this occasionally in the junkyards to get access to airbag bolts, etc. I always find the steering wheels turn with hardly any resistance. But it might be that I just pay less attention to it.

Normal?
 
I don't know of any other way to do it if all you're doing is lifting the rear. If your goal is to get the car completely off the ground I've been known to jack up one side (two wheels) at a time. I lift at the rear end of the "frame rail" under the middle of the car on one side and put jack stands under the front/rear lift points, then go to the other side to get it up in the air, and go back to the other side to lift higher etc. until it's as high as I need it to be.
 
I put the jack under the rear diff mount and lift the whole rear up at once. Jackstands under the front IRS mounts(brackets).

Same with the front, jack under the center of the K member and stands I put either under the frame rails just aft of the torque boxes or underneath the strut rod bushings on the k member depending on the task
 
If you want to lift the whole rear at once, it is perfectly fine to lift from the rear diff mount. That bolts directly to the rear subframe, and so will lift the whole rear of the car. The problem occurs if you try to lift from the diff housing, as then you are putting the full weight of the car on the aluminum cover, which is likely to crack.
 
If the wheels are off, it will take less effort to turn, so that may be part of it. It is also possible that the resistance in the ball joints is higher in your car than the ones in the junkyard. Also if they already drained all the fluids out, it will be much easier to turn a rack that has no fluid in it than one that is full of fluid that has to be pushed out of the way.
 
MadMikeyL said:
If the wheels are off, it will take less effort to turn, so that may be part of it. .
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Yes, most junkyard cars have the wheels removed.

MadMikeyL said:
. It is also possible that the resistance in the ball joints is higher in your car than the ones in the junkyard.
Click to expand...

I hope it's not that. Or at least I hope my ball joints are still good. Everything felt tight as I was trying to wiggle the wheels.
 
More resistance than a car in the junkyard isn’t necessarily a bad thing. If you ball joints are tight, and the junkyard car’s are about to fall out, then they will be easy to turn when the car is up in the air with no load on the suspension. Honestly I wouldn’t think too much into it. As long as your suspension isn’t making any noises and isn’t giving you any issues, and it isn’t hard to steer when running, then it’s probably fine.
 
If you're worried about ball joint resistance, put the front wheels in the air, disconnect the tie rods, and see how they move. Good, well lubed ball joints should move easily; resistance in a worn one is often the ball forcing its way out of the hole.
 
Speaking of worn lower ball joints, what are signs of worn lower ball joints?
 
CDsDontBurn said:
Speaking of worn lower ball joints, what are signs of worn lower ball joints?
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Grinding sounds, lack of steering return and if the boots are torn just assume they’re going to go bad sooner or later.
 
What are your guys' thoughts on Dayco brand of products in the aftermarket scene?

I usually steer towards (in no particular order) Gates, Continental, Goodyear, Felpro, and AC Delco.
 
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