The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

I need F3LY-8A080-A (the coolant overflow tank) for a 97 V8 Tbird. Anyone know how many years I can go back and still have them fit, and if they're the same in both V6 and V8 cars?
 
Stanley said:
I need F3LY-8A080-A (the coolant overflow tank) for a 97 V8 Tbird. Anyone know how many years I can go back and still have them fit, and if they're the same in both V6 and V8 cars?
Click to expand...

V6 tanks are different. For V8s they’re the same 94-97 and also the same on all 93-98 Mark VIIIs(in fact that’s what the part number denotes)
 
Cool, thanks. There's a 94 in a junkyard near me, so I'll head over and see if it's a V6 or V8. Any tips on pulling those tanks?
 
Stanley said:
Cool, thanks. There's a 94 in a junkyard near me, so I'll head over and see if it's a V6 or V8. Any tips on pulling those tanks?
Click to expand...

They’re pretty straight forward, just two bolts hold it in and two hoses are attached, plus the connector for the level sensor if equipped. Just cut the hoses and get the remainder off it at your leisure. I’ve never cracked a coolant tank but like all coolant hoses they tend to put up a fight getting them off.
 
In plenty of coolant change tutorials, I hear that you should turn the heater to WARM in order to circulate the new coolant.

Am I right in assuming that A. they say that because some cars have a valve that only directs coolant through the heater core when the heater is turned to WARM, and B. that our cars don't have such a value, and coolant goes through the heater core no matter what?

Is there any other reason to do this?
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
In plenty of coolant change tutorials, I hear that you should turn the heater to WARM in order to circulate the new coolant.

Am I right in assuming that A. they say that because some cars have a valve that only directs coolant through the heater core when the heater is turned to WARM, and B. that our cars don't have such a value, and coolant goes through the heater core no matter what?

Is there any other reason to do this?
Click to expand...

That’s exactly it, not pertinent to us.
 
1997ThunderbirdLXV6 said:
coolant goes through the heater core no matter what?
Click to expand...

In some situations; this is a high point ( potential for air trap, especially after a coolant change ) .. and when I say trapped - it can become hydrolocked; where the water won't push the air pocket out. Running the heater is a confirmation of flow.
 
Yes, I know some Honda's, old Oldsmobiles, and some Fords used a valve to regulate flow through the heater core. That said, I usually run the heat on high when refilling. I know if I have good heat in the cabin then the system is probably full.
 
How does one remove the fan clutch on a 93 LX's V6? Bought a fan clutch wrench, but not seeing where this ones spot is to use it.
 
It's been a hundred years, but I think it's just four bolts to the water pump shaft and four bolts holding the fan to the clutch. No need for any fancy tools on this job for your car.
 
Does my AC compressor sound or seem funky to you? Or is this kind of behavior considered normal AC operation:


I don't get any cold when I turn the AC on. The compressor tries to start (?) but stays on for only a second or two, as visible in the video. These "attempts" keep on occurring for as long as I keep the AC on, and occur every 10-30 seconds maybe. When driving, it makes a significant bump when the compressor tries to spin. Would the compressor behave the same if the system was functional?

I'm considering taking my Tbird to an AC system refill, but before that I'm trying to find out if there could be something obviously broken there.

(I'm thinking that the compressor makes a "harsh" noise when it tries to start, which would imply something's broken there too, but I'm a total newbie to AC systems, and can't really tell what kind of noise is normal for the compressor)
 
The cycling like that is usually due to low refrigerant. Before you go spending a bunch of money at a shop, get one of the cans with the gauge on it and try adding refrigerant to it. If that causes it to stop cycling, and there is no noise and the system starts getting cold, then at least you know the system works, and you can bring it to a shop to have them find and fix the leak, and recharge it properly.
 
MadMikeyL said:
The cycling like that is usually due to low refrigerant. Before you go spending a bunch of money at a shop, get one of the cans with the gauge on it and try adding refrigerant to it. If that causes it to stop cycling, and there is no noise and the system starts getting cold, then at least you know the system works, and you can bring it to a shop to have them find and fix the leak, and recharge it properly.
Click to expand...
Thanks. This sounds like a good approach, although it seems that those refrigerant cans are not for consumer sale here. I could probably import some from outside EU though..
 
Grog6 said:
Autozone, advance auto, do any of those exist in europe?
Click to expand...
Not really, autozone seems to even geoblock european connections. Rockauto works fine, I've placed a few orders from them, the delivery takes about a week.
 
'Totally understand the goal of a full functioning bird but AC in Finland is an interesting concept
 
This question is about my 2000 Explorer, but probably pertains to any vehicle. I walked by it today and saw what appears to be oil dripping down the rim and tire; feels oily to the touch. There is some on both the face and inside of the rim. Only on the bottom half, but not coming from the axle / wheel bearing. I pulled the wheel and the top brake piston has road debris whereas the bottom piston was relatively clean. I could not see any leak path. All fluids are at an acceptable level. Brake pedal feels normal both running and off. After cleaning and working the brakes there was no evidence of leakage. I did not remove the caliper. Hoses have been replaced and still look new.

The only thing that makes sense to leak on the rim like that is brake fluid, or am I missing something?
 
If there's no dirt adhered to a seal, no obvious leak, it may only leak under braking force. I had a rear line crack a metal line. right at the banjo block.
 
I cleaned up the area and moved it to see if a new puddle showed up overnight.
 
Kidd-7 said:
This question is about my 2000 Explorer, but probably pertains to any vehicle. I walked by it today and saw what appears to be oil dripping down the rim and tire; feels oily to the touch. There is some on both the face and inside of the rim. Only on the bottom half, but not coming from the axle / wheel bearing. I pulled the wheel and the top brake piston has road debris whereas the bottom piston was relatively clean. I could not see any leak path. All fluids are at an acceptable level. Brake pedal feels normal both running and off. After cleaning and working the brakes there was no evidence of leakage. I did not remove the caliper. Hoses have been replaced and still look new.

The only thing that makes sense to leak on the rim like that is brake fluid, or am I missing something?
Click to expand...
If it’s a rear wheel, it could be an axle seal.
 
The front is independent suspension though, so there is no path for gear oil to get to the wheel. Sounds like a brake fluid leak. If the leak is slow enough, you won’t feel it in the pedal until it leaks out enough to suck air through the master.
 
I just replaced a caliper because I apparently oversnugged the bleeder. I discovered it same as you , fluid in the inner wheel and yet the pedal felt fine, it had just enough thread left to hold up to brake pressure without shooting off but was slowly weeping fluid past the threads
 
Can someone link me the outside temperature sensor for our cars? I am having a hard time finding it on RA and it doesn't seem to go by "temperature sensor" or similar (that I've noticed so far).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Back
Top