The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

CDsDontBurn said:
Is that the same thing as like the engine temp sensor that goes to the coolant crossover on the intake manifold?
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In function yea, in calibration dimension and materials no. The OT sensor is made of plastic for starters!
 
There are at least 3 ford ECT senders. Green, white, and gray; all different, and none will swap!
 
Anyone recognize this splash guard type?

It's made of a softer rubber than the hard plastic of the standard Ford types. I have it sitting on top of a sealed 9th gen one for comparison (which is the same as the 10th gen in size), trying to line them up as best I can. So you can see that it's a little bit smaller, with a very slightly different curve, but should otherwise fit fine. There's no manufacturer mark on them, and no code or any other writing on the back, and it didn't come in any kind of package. So I have no clues on its origin.

Rubber Flap.jpg

I found another auction of the same broad type on ebay. It's not the same flap, but the styling and flap construction are the same:
www.ebay.ca

Vintage Ford Truck Mud Flaps Splash Guards Black Hot Rod Rat Rod Accessory | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Vintage Ford Truck Mud Flaps Splash Guards Black Hot Rod Rat Rod Accessory at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.ca
 
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On some of my previous posts, I’ve mentioned my T45 getting stuck in reverse, I’ve narrowed it down to it only happening when my car is not on level ground, if I let it roll back enough it’ll pop out.

My stupid question is: How likely would it be the shifter?
It’s a used Steeda Tri-ax from eBay.
I’m trying to rule as much out as possible before I drop the tranny.

Good news is, the guy I bought the tranny from will cover any repairs, but I’m just dreading pulling it out again.
 
I use birdcats on my phone, and it has now went very small where I can barely see anything I was wondering if this was something on my end or what?
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Mine does not have the member info on the left. It's above each post. I'm guessing that is a setting.
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Little Ice-Cable said:
I use birdcats on my phone, and it has now went very small where I can barely see anything I was wondering if this was something on my end or what?
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It looks like the website to opening in "desktop mode".

Should be a browser setting that you can change utilizing the three vertical dots in the top right corner of the browser window.
 
Ok so I have a stupid question but no sure how to ask.

Let’s see, what dictates how much air an engine consumes??

How do you determine the choke point in an engine??

So here goes, 4.6 throttle bodies and plenum range from 500-600+cfm depending on stock or aftermarket.
Stock PI heads flow about 158cfm at .500lift, multiply that by 8 cylinders that’s about 1264cfm. Ported heads flow about 200-220cfm which is 1600-1760cfm.

Doesn’t that mean the stock/aftermarket throttle body/plenum flow nowhere near close to what the heads can take??

That’s also on top of the CFM flow of the exhaust manifold which I can’t find concrete data on.

Also got some data on the dual 60mm throttle body of the cobra/mach 1 flow About 1000-1100cfm, 4v heads flow about 220-230 stock which match a lot better than the 2v’s. I can see why the 4v’s make more power per PSI of boost compared to the 2v.


So am I tripping or how does it make sense??
 

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2v heads also suffer from valve shading, where flow is restricted by to the valve size vs cylinder dia.
 
I do not have trunk clips for my car, the parts number is N800575S, does anyone know what I could use instead of this?
 
You can’t simply add up the flow of each head port, since they aren’t all flowing at the same time. If you want to know if your throttle body is a restriction in general, look at a vacuum gauge. If you have vacuum in the manifold at WOT, then there is a restriction either in the throttle body, or somewhere forward of that. In your case with boost, the test would be to compare boost pressure before the throttle body to boost in the manifold. If both are the same, the throttle body is not a restriction.
 
My pneumatic grease gun keeps getting plugged. I’ve taken it apart and cleaned it out a couple times only to have it work a little while and clog again. Aside from airing up my tires it’s about the only time I use my air compressor.
Anyone have a recommendation for a good grease gun that’s not pneumatic?
Or a suggestion to fix this one?
 
Clogging is usually a sign the grease is old, and needs replacement.
 
It’s a new tube, but legitimately maybe it’s stuck with old grease. Another cleaning.
 
Do you soak it in a bucket / container and agitate the insides when cleaning it to clean it?

Or do you just stick stuff in there and scrape away old grease / gunk?
 
The second option and that’s probably why it’s still goobered up. A thorough cleaning of due. Should I use something like simple green to soak it in to get rid of all the old grease?
 
Soaking in hot water and Dawn worked for me; I pumped it thru the line too.
My gun first had grease put in in the 60's.
 
Kidd-7 said:
The second option and that’s probably why it’s still goobered up. A thorough cleaning of due. Should I use something like simple green to soak it in to get rid of all the old grease?
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Aa thorough cleaning in a solution of some sort. I like @Grog6 idea of dawn dish soap and hot water. I would also agitate the water to have it flow to break up stuff. Stick stuff in it and scrape while it's soaking in the solution, agitate some more, and repeat until you have good flow.

Other degreasers like your simple green should work too,
 
Probably not aluminum, but don't soak alumimum in simple green too long, it makes this grey phosphide coating that doesn't look good.
 
Anyone have a recommendation for a good window motor? RA has a bunch of options such as Cardone, SKP and dorman.
 
MadMikeyL said:
Just fix the factory ones. The motor part almost never goes bad, it is always the little plastic pucks inside that disintegrate, and they are easy enough to replace.
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This, but I have had a motor or two go bad through the years. FWIW, RockAuto sells new Motorcraft motors. My fallback is to search via the Ford part numbers on ebay. That is how I used to buy NOS Motorcraft door lock actuators since the aftermarket parts were so bad.
 
What is this white housing and wire in the air box? Just some kind of little junction box?

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IAT Intake Air Temp Sensor. You need that to be in the side of the inlet tube, near rhe airbox, or you have a badly running car. There's a hole for it.
 
Grog6 said:
What's different on the 89-90 steer7ng rack? Teves?
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Teves is only related to ABS brakes. I’m not sure there is any significant difference in the steering racks 89-97
 
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