The Unofficial "Ask a Stupid Question" Thread

A couple stupid questions: key doesn't turn on the door, and the unlock switchh only makes the actuator make noise. I think the latch is stuck. Anyone what ever had that on a car that's sat around a lot? Any ideas how to best break it free?

The other side the key turns too easy, but the switch does not work. I'm thinking it's the lock rod clip. Thoughts?
 
I have seen them rust solid. Spraying them out wiyh wd40, and 5 years will do.
 
Irv said:
A strip of white LED ribbon with leads soldered to one bulb socket. You definitely won't be having brightness problems anymore.

If not for that, you all know I'm picky about color temperature, so I'd say VLEDS for any other interior bulbs.
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What ribbon did you use?

As for the rest I went back to regular 194s. I hear your argument for color temperature but warmth > brightness for me.
 
Were there 2 different sized throttle bodies on the 89-95 SC?
I read online there was 60mm and a 65mm.

I’ve been reading about putting an SC throttle body on a Turbo Coupe being a common upgrade, so I’ll probably be in the market for one, if anyone on here has one.
 
I have one. It’s off a 90, but I’ll measure it and let you know the diameter. I don’t remember there being a difference in the throttle body between early and late SCs though.
 
Zep5.0 said:
A couple stupid questions: key doesn't turn on the door, and the unlock switchh only makes the actuator make noise. I think the latch is stuck. Anyone what ever had that on a car that's sat around a lot? Any ideas how to best break it free?

The other side the key turns too easy, but the switch does not work. I'm thinking it's the lock rod clip. Thoughts?
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I have a lock actuator with link, new that I bought and never used on my Cougar. It's for the passenger side though, if you are in need of one.

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Why does my phone keep giving me spam notifications when birdcats notifications show up?Screenshot_20260219_172155_One UI Home.jpg
 
XR7-4.6 said:
What ribbon did you use?

As for the rest I went back to regular 194s. I hear your argument for color temperature but warmth > brightness for me.
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It's been so long that I forgot where I bought it. It appears to be a neutral white, or at least warmer than your standard 6000K cool white. Really any 12V ribbon will do, and they can easily be found in 3000K white and in a COB LED format so it's a diffused solid strip of light instead of one LED chip every couple of centimeters apart.

20260219_204635 (Large).JPG

20260219_204652 (Large).JPG
 
3_97_Sports said:
Why does my phone keep giving me spam notifications when birdcats notifications show
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Because all phone notifications are stupid and pointless

Jokes aside, good question. My guess is that birdcats isn't whitelisted until it hits some point of seniority
 
Vicinity said:
Because all phone notifications are stupid and pointless

Jokes aside, good question. My guess is that birdcats isn't whitelisted until it hits some point of seniority
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This is a new thing.
But yes it is no big deal really.
 
I’m pretty sure I have my reverse issue figured out after the 100th attempt lol. My dumb question is: how much preload should be on the slave cylinder? I think I’ve had it wrong this entire time. 🤦🏻‍♂️

IMG_3673.jpeg
 
I have it set up where the pressure plate fingers are only just in contact with the TOB, no more no less

Is that the right slave? All the 4cyl S10 ones I’ve ever seen including mine are plastic with a separate metal mounting tab
 
XR7-4.6 said:
I have it set up where the pressure plate fingers are only just in contact with the TOB, no more no less

Is that the right slave? All the 4cyl S10 ones I’ve ever seen including mine are plastic with a separate metal mounting tab
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Yeah, 94 S10 4 cylinder. It’s a car quest part from Rockauto.

I definitely misread some of the forum posts and had the piston pushed in way too much. 🫣
 
So I've decided not to go with a 4v for my gray car, but I want to make anywhere from 265 horsepower or more from the 2v. I have looked up some things, and I have some ideas. If any of you guys have methods of getting there that would be appreciated, but the stupid question is what is the mileage these cars go too. The car has 170000 miles on it, is this to high to do stuff to?
 
Little Ice-Cable said:
So I've decided not to go with a 4v for my gray car, but I want to make anywhere from 265 horsepower or more from the 2v. I have looked up some things, and I have some ideas. If any of you guys have methods of getting there that would be appreciated, but the stupid question is what is the mileage these cars go too. The car has 170000 miles on it, is this to high to do stuff to?
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It wouldn’t take too much to get to 265. Start off with PI heads, and some cams of your choice.
Check out modular headshop they have some nice Trick Flow head and cam packages.

A supercharger would get you there quicker, obviously, but at 170k I’d probably look in to doing an engine rebuild before doing a supercharger.

I’ve seen these N/A 4.6’s go well over 300k with general maintenance.
 
Ericv8thunderbird said:
It wouldn’t take too much to get to 265. Start off with PI heads, and some cams of your choice.
Check out modular headshop they have some nice Trick Flow head and cam packages.

A supercharger would get you there quicker, obviously, but at 170k I’d probably look in to doing an engine rebuild before doing a supercharger.

I’ve seen these N/A 4.6’s go well over 300k with general maintenance.
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Alright I figured I was fine but I just wanted to check.
 
Lazarus survived 550k miles of daily hooning, well over 100mph. 170k is well broken in, imho.
Like matt said, pi heads, cams, and a real pi intake. But, I'd start with a brake upgrade.
 
I was gifted some headers, but they are not the correct kooks headers. Why do people say the kooks ones are the only ones that will work?
 
The steering shaft is in the way of the primaries otherwise, Kooks is the only game around these days that makes a set of headers that fit the MN12 chassis and go around the steering shaft.

You can make others work, but you need do do the steering shaft mod to get it out of the way, or rework the primaries.
 
Look at your drivers side manifold, then look at the kooks; #8 is the difference,iirc.
 
It’s more than #8, the driver side Kooks is shaped so it’s positioned further out from the engine in order to clear the steering shaft, Mustang headers are designed so it’s 2 pivot shaft goes in between primary tubes.
 
Those are a foot longer than the 2v set I have.
Those are gonna rock!
So have you managed to scare yourself with the new cams?
I was surprised when I put the pi cams/intake on. :)
 
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